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Old 01-01-2011, 10:45 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarbyCar View Post
I know this isn't really Race Prep but it's the only custom gauge set up thread that search found.

Here's mine, almost ready to install. This is the proof of concept model to test out back lighting, pointer lighting, gauge function and reliability. I have yet to get a WB bung welded in or a location to mount the oil temp sensor.
Anybody have a suggestion on the easiest place to mount an oil temp sensor on a 2000? Note that I'm using the 99/00 water temp sensor for oil to match with the gauge.

Adds Oil Temp, AFR and Boost Gauges plus Knock, Oil Press and WI lights.

Details:
Oil and water temp gauges - linear modified
Oil Pressure gauge - stripped, grease removed and rewound
Oil pressure sensor - VDO 0-80psi sender plus idiot light
AFR - Analog AEM
Boost - stripped Autometer
Check Engine, Seatbelt, Brake etc Lights - All LED
Backlighting - LED, dimmable
Gauge pointer lighting - LED, colour change on warn for tach, temps, oil, AFR and fuel.


Picasa Pic
How much to buy one of those?
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:19 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriscar View Post
Wow, that's badass. Have any pictures of the insides?
C
Sorry, not yet - I'm kinda embarrassed at the wiring spaghetti in there, not my usual work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottFW View Post
It's pretty sweet that you have all that integrated into a stock cluster, but a minor point of weirdness IMO is how you have the tach and speedo dials clocked. For example, why not put the tach redline at 12:00, or 6:00 since you seem to like stuff pointing downward most of the time? If you're going to rotate them at all, I would configure them so "vertical" relates to some commonly used or important value, to make it easier for your brain to process when you're at speed. Just personal preference of course.
Thanks for your comments. I toyed with a few orientations of the tach and speedo. To get as much room as possible for the other gauges I moved them both upwards and closer together in the cluster; the needles can't go closer to vertical without hitting the gauge surround bezel or cutting the needles. Starting from 6:00 means they would move past vertical in their travel. Now it's mostly assembled I can see there might be room to move them down giving more options for needle position.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagase View Post
How much to buy one of those?
Yikes, it's home made. I bought a couple of used clusters for a total of $75 so I didn't have to rip into mine. There's probably $20 worth of wires, LEDS and such and I likely ripped through 25 sheets of laser printable acetate (at a buck a sheet). The boost gauge was donated by a friend and I bought the AEM W/B new.
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:27 PM   #123
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Originally Posted by BarbyCar View Post
Yikes, it's home made. I bought a couple of used clusters for a total of $75 so I didn't have to rip into mine. There's probably $20 worth of wires, LEDS and such and I likely ripped through 25 sheets of laser printable acetate (at a buck a sheet). The boost gauge was donated by a friend and I bought the AEM W/B new.
Yeah, I know it's homemade. I still want to buy one.
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:28 PM   #124
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Maybe a "how to" of sorts for those of us not so electrically literate?

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Old 01-02-2011, 12:59 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarbyCar View Post
I know this isn't really Race Prep but it's the only custom gauge set up thread that search found.

Here's mine, almost ready to install. This is the proof of concept model to test out back lighting, pointer lighting, gauge function and reliability. I have yet to get a WB bung welded in or a location to mount the oil temp sensor.
Anybody have a suggestion on the easiest place to mount an oil temp sensor on a 2000? Note that I'm using the 99/00 water temp sensor for oil to match with the gauge.

Adds Oil Temp, AFR and Boost Gauges plus Knock, Oil Press and WI lights.

Details:
Oil and water temp gauges - linear modified
Oil Pressure gauge - stripped, grease removed and rewound
Oil pressure sensor - VDO 0-80psi sender plus idiot light
AFR - Analog AEM
Boost - stripped Autometer
Check Engine, Seatbelt, Brake etc Lights - All LED
Backlighting - LED, dimmable
Gauge pointer lighting - LED, colour change on warn for tach, temps, oil, AFR and fuel.


Picasa Pic

This is the most ridiculously awesome analog gauge cluster I have ever seen.
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Old 01-02-2011, 01:10 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarbyCar View Post
I know this isn't really Race Prep but it's the only custom gauge set up thread that search found.

Here's mine, almost ready to install. This is the proof of concept model to test out back lighting, pointer lighting, gauge function and reliability. I have yet to get a WB bung welded in or a location to mount the oil temp sensor.
Anybody have a suggestion on the easiest place to mount an oil temp sensor on a 2000? Note that I'm using the 99/00 water temp sensor for oil to match with the gauge.

Adds Oil Temp, AFR and Boost Gauges plus Knock, Oil Press and WI lights.

Details:
Oil and water temp gauges - linear modified
Oil Pressure gauge - stripped, grease removed and rewound
Oil pressure sensor - VDO 0-80psi sender plus idiot light
AFR - Analog AEM
Boost - stripped Autometer
Check Engine, Seatbelt, Brake etc Lights - All LED
Backlighting - LED, dimmable
Gauge pointer lighting - LED, colour change on warn for tach, temps, oil, AFR and fuel.


Picasa Pic
That is awesome. The only thing I would have changed would have been actual number for the temp and oil pressure
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:32 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarbyCar View Post
Sorry, not yet - I'm kinda embarrassed at the wiring spaghetti in there, not my usual work.
Don't be shy! I've modded a few clusters and they all look great on the outside and messy on the inside. Here's my Miata cluster - now it's your turn.

C
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:22 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscar View Post
Don't be shy! I've modded a few clusters and they all look great on the outside and messy on the inside. Here's my Miata cluster - now it's your turn.

C
Ok, since you asked so nicely. I added some interior shots to the Picasa album. http://picasaweb.google.com/gary.mac...eat=directlink

I've seen your work before Chris. In fact, it was your posts here at MT that prompted me to get off my a$$ and do something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gryff View Post

Maybe a "how to" of sorts for those of us not so electrically literate?
The electrical part is pretty simple if you can solder. I left the circuit panel in place so I could use the stock connectors which also gave me a place to connect my wires to run to the repositioned gauges. The LEDs are done the same way. One of my problems was using a US spec cluster for my Canadian spec car - until I realised the DRL connection was messing me up. The only other problem was using LED for the airbag and brake indicators; LED don't draw enough current to trip the electronics in the car so I added a resistor load to fix that.
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:43 PM   #129
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Thanks for the pics! How's the backlighting handled? Looks like you've got a piece of clear plexi in there, and some sort of liquid mask.What program did you use to generate the faceplate, and what kind of printer was used?

C
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Old 01-03-2011, 12:18 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscar View Post
Thanks for the pics! How's the backlighting handled? Looks like you've got a piece of clear plexi in there, and some sort of liquid mask.What program did you use to generate the faceplate, and what kind of printer was used?

C
I answered some of your questions in the comment for each pic. There is a piece of 1/4" clear Lexan. The backlight LED are embedded into the Lexan with foil tape over the end to prevent light from shining through the faceplate and to reflect light back into the lexan. I made sure that the LEDs were away from any white or coloured portions of the faceplate. The light exiting through the faceplate is reflected and refracted through the Lexan.

The faceplate was made using Adobe Illustrator using the methods detailed at revlimiter.net. The (orange) liquid mask you refer to is simply permanent marker applied to both sides of a piece of clear acetate (both sides to improve colour density). The faceplate consists of three layers. The viewed layer is laser printable clear acetate, the middle layer is white paper and the bottom layer is the clear acetate with orange marker. The blue and red markings are just more marker on the paper layer.

The printer used was a HP1012, plain old black and white. I could not find any acetate bigger than letter size (legal would have been perfect) so there is a join in the visible layer. between tach and speedo Further, the feed accuracy of the printer means that paper and acetate do not exactly scale leading to a second join (near the boost gauge) to get paper and acetate to align.
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:48 PM   #131
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So can I buy one now?
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:36 PM   #132
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So can I buy one now?
Too Funny. I LOL'd

It snowed here in Toronto last night.....I'll say no more.
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:43 PM   #133
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So you'll be buying the car back from the insurance company and selling the cluster?

*I actually kind of hope that didn't happen*
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:15 AM   #134
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Originally Posted by fooger03 View Post
So you'll be buying the car back from the insurance company and selling the cluster?

*I actually kind of hope that didn't happen*
It didn't, (phew). I haven't had chance to get the wideband sensor bung welded in because the car has not been out yet and I don't want to run the wideband gauge without the sensor in place.

Also, I managed to drop the vac/boost gauge one too many times during the build and it no longer zeros (it only travels between -20 and -10). I've tried resetting the needle and tweaking the bourdon tube to no avail. So its off to the local tuning shop for a replacement.

Once it's installed I'll post up pics. I still don't think I'll be making them to sell though - it's a whole crap load of labour.
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Old 04-05-2011, 04:29 PM   #135
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Just made something similar on my freinds mustang I will get a pic and post it. It is defiantly worth it.
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Old 04-23-2011, 02:11 PM   #136
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My gauge setup is no longer being done because I got this...

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Monitors oil temp, water temp, oil pressure, RPM, ODO, trip meter and speed. Top left is boost right now as well, but when I go Rotrex since it's a 0-5v signal I'm going to trick it into reading my wb02. All I have to do is hook the dash up to my computer and change the calibration settings.

booya.

They're under $1000 too... I love this thing.
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Old 04-30-2011, 03:22 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayne_curr View Post
By the way, this is why I only use (or try to use) un-insulated crimp connectors, solder after the crimp and shrink tube the connections. As solid as if there wasn't a join there at all.
Theory:
In general you shouldn't solder automotive wiring. Soldering creates a stress point in the wire that is more likely to fail than if you had just crimped it.
So yes, your joint is solid, but that's exactly why it is more likely to fail.

Practice:
I have seen both crimp and solder joints fail in aftermarket engine management installs. For crimps they were loose and not checked well initially. For solder joints the wire cracked after a while at the point where the solder made the wire stiff.
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Old 05-01-2011, 07:56 PM   #138
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When you do what wayne says the crimp is bearing the load, the solder is only a backup and insurance for the electrical connection. the shrink tubing also helps bear some of the load. It is probably the best way to splice.
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:04 PM   #139
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If you solder the crimp is irrelevant. With solder it will break at the edge of the solder where the wire goes from being stranded (non-soldered) to solid (soldered), because you have introduced a stress riser at that point. This is an inevitable fact of soldering.

If the wire doesn't ever see flex around the joint you can probably get away with it, but it's still not as good as a simple crimp (mechanically). This is why companies like Motec say in their manuals not to use solder, and why you'll rarely find solder in a factory loom.
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:22 PM   #140
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I've never heard of anyone overpowering stock bolts
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