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If you need any help setting up the blower, just let me know. I ran one of those in years past.
Thank you, the ubercharger I acquired was attached to a pretty sorted car accept for the vented block. I do have lots of questions if you don’t mind a pm sometime down the road.
Haven't posted here in a while.
We had another successful year.
Won both the XP and SSM National championships.
Not really sure what the next steps or next direction for the car is.
Full XP seems intriguing but I like the car being a real street car.
Seriously considering going away from the Torsen diff this winter.
After breaking the 3rd crankshaft I'm finally going billet, it should be here in about 8 weeks.
Other than that...not sure what to do to make the car faster. Open to ideas at this point.
It was awesome watching the results this year in XP and SSM, congrats!!!
I know it'd be a big jump, but what about dipping your toes into TT with SCCA with this car? Too much weight for safety(cage) to do both tasks probably?
Thanks a ton.. I'm still kind of in disbelief that it happened.
First Miata to win SSM Pro Solo Championship
First Miata to Win SSM National Championship
SS.First Miata to win XP Championship
First car to win a 2 Open class Championships in the same year in two different classifications.
It's pretty crazy..
At this point I can safely say it's the fastest autocrossed car in the world on DOT tires.
Time Trials just doesn't appeal to me at all.
I've raced wheel to wheel for years and find it is significantly less exhilarating to me than National Level Solo. Track driving is all heavy petting, Solo in this car is all orgasm. I don't at all see driving on a track as a "next step" but rather a step backwards.
Time attack is intriguing, but I don't have the budget to compete at the level I would want to in that sport.
Eric, where would you recommend buying lightweight autocross wheels? The off the shelf 15X11's that are available are at least 20% heavier than the 6ul's I have one set of. I'd like a 2nd set just for flexibility.
Eric, where would you recommend buying lightweight autocross wheels? The off the shelf 15X11's that are available are at least 20% heavier than the 6ul's I have one set of. I'd like a 2nd set just for flexibility.
Keizer are an option too. I was pretty happy with my aluminum center versions and they were lighter than my 15x10 spinwerks. They told me the magnesium Centers would be lighter but they'd need to be replaced every season.
We installed a roll bar for this event to test being able to use shoulder harnesses....and didn't hate it, bad side is the inside camera focused on the bar and washed out the view out the windshield
We installed a roll bar for this event to test being able to use shoulder harnesses....and didn't hate it, bad side is the inside camera focused on the bar and washed out the view out the windshield
Have you tried Spot Metering (link)? Should fix the exposure light metering.
Question: what are you doing for telemetry? I’ve been through this thread and not seen any details (apologies if I missed it) but around the time of the post I’ve quoted below a tablet appears on the dashboard attached to a bracket off the tombstone. Wondering what it is and what it is running.
Thanks in advance
Originally Posted by TNTUBA
Couldn't stay away from the car or the cones. Went to a local event this past weekend. Set FTD (Beat a shifter cart to do it ) and had to be "conservative" by the sound meter because they had it setup next to a set of metal football bleachers.
This car is soooo addictive and I still can't wrap my head around how much faster it's going to be next year
For driving data/car performance we use Solo Storm and Race Keeper.
The tablet is a Windows 10 tablet, and it is there for the MS3 PRO. It has a gauge display but also allows me to make adjustment to the tune at events, I.E. completely turn the rev limiter off at Nationals one year because we needed it to win, Randall was on the limiter hard in 3 places but the shift wouldn't have worked for any of them.....and then we turned just over 9,000 RPM through the finish
So. This might be the luckiest unlucky thing to ever happen to me.
since I had broken 3 cranks, I got with Joe at Molodex to build me a custom piece that should take care of the crank issue
Well.
Last night I pulled the motor out with plans to just slap this new crank in and have it ready to go this weekend.
The motorsports Gods had other plans.
When I took the nuts off the number two main cap.....it came off in two pieces.
I'm not sure this is what they meant by "modular motor"
I reached out to Bill at Miataroadster and he's sending me some bisomething caps and his MBSP setup. Something I probably should have done a long time ago....but man....I didn't have time for this.
I'm going to miss at least 1 major race this year and possibly spring Nationals as well.
Moral of the story is, if you are north of 400hp at the tires on a "real" dyno, if you turn more than 8,200 and even if you have ARP studs.....your main caps are a liability.
There was ZERO symptoms. We ran a race last weekend, had great oil pressure, motor was strong, no knocks....nothing.
This may have been the cause of your crank issues the whole time. I've been getting more into the audi 07k platform and on those they break forged cranks around 850 awhp on the first gen iron blocks but the same crank in the 2nd Gen aluminum blocks don't break at 1200 awhp. The difference is the stiffness and support of the mains bearings
So between that new main girdle and billet crank you're never going to break another one.
09-20-2021, 11:42 AM
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