Intake Manifold Studs

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06-14-2015, 12:47 AM

#61

patsmx5

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Quote:

Originally Posted by noname4me

Those of you breaking intake manifold studs, is 8000+rpm the common denominator? If so, are you running an aftermarket balancer? How about fully balanced rotating assembly? (Wondering if the SuperMiata balancer and the like would reduce high rpm vibration enough to combat vibration related failures?)

I've run 8,000 RPM rev limit since 2008, and 8,500+ since 2011. Never broken a intake manifold stud, and I reuse the stock studs/nuts.

I use a torque wrench though. I previously ran the factory brace but due to packaging, now I don't.

06-14-2015, 12:21 PM

#62

hornetball

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Graeme, I see a thick, insulating IM gasket. I wonder if that's a factor?

I've only run the OEM IM gasket. No brace (packaging), 7500RPM revlimiter hit often and lots and lots of tracking. No issues so far (knocks on wood).

07-04-2015, 07:41 PM

#63

GraemeD

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After asking others, I ditched the insulator. But only after I bought a set of the ARP studs. I tried the phenolic one from Bill at Miata Roadster, but it was too thick for the studs I already bought. So no insulator now.
We will see after Sunday's event how it holds up.

03-06-2016, 09:17 AM

#64

TNTUBA

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Yet another year of racing on the ARP studs without an issue. If you are breaking intake studs....order the ARP studs I referenced earlier in this thread. They are awesome sauce.

03-06-2016, 09:54 AM

#65

GraemeD

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ARP studs sans insulator = no worries

03-06-2016, 10:00 AM

#66

TNTUBA

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ARP studs WITH insulating gasket, large cold side Whipple and 8,000+ RPM redline = no worries.

03-07-2016, 01:06 PM

#67

bbundy

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I have never had a manifold stud fail. Also have been using Hondata gasket. My intake manifold is a lightened 1995 version however several pounds lighter than a stock NB manifold.