Intake Manifold Studs
02-26-2015, 12:08 PM
#43
Elite Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Anacortes, WA
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Im using a 94-97 manifold. heavily modified and made to fit a 99 head its a few pounds lighter than stock and might be 8 or 9 pounds lighter than a Vics. No EGR features no bracing no casting flash and with extra cast material and webs etc ground out removed and smoothed over. And no intake manifold issues with 8600 rpm rev limit.
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02-26-2015, 01:16 PM
#45
Cpt. Slow
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We had this issue on Laz, only when I used my shitty torque wrench and over torqued all of them to probably 30ft/lbs instead of 14-19.
We replaced all of them with new OEM studs, and used locktite on both sides. We'll try to report back at the end of the season with results.
Something no one's discussed, but the stock brace is molded to give easier access to the oil filter. Add in a oil/water cooler, oil cooler sandwich plate, and/or sensor plate, and/or an oversized filter, and there's no way it'll clear.
We replaced all of them with new OEM studs, and used locktite on both sides. We'll try to report back at the end of the season with results.
Something no one's discussed, but the stock brace is molded to give easier access to the oil filter. Add in a oil/water cooler, oil cooler sandwich plate, and/or sensor plate, and/or an oversized filter, and there's no way it'll clear.
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02-26-2015, 04:59 PM
#46
Former Vendor
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I've snapped a couple here or there, but it never seemed to be a chronic problem. 30lb of supercharger would probably change that. Eric, I'm surprised you haven't considered a brace - trying to keep the weight off?
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02-26-2015, 09:49 PM
#47
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I made a brace for the manifold. I think my issues went as follows. Blower manifold flange was too think to use stock length studs. I (like an idiot) went to the local hardware store and found the proper length "automotive studs" which I later found out to be class 5 hardware. So this off season rather than only half fixing the problem, I did what I do and went overboard with the ARP hardware. Like all ARP stuff I was impressed with the quality and would recommend those studs to anyone. (but they are a bit spendy)
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03-03-2015, 07:42 AM
#51
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Join Date: Sep 2012
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I know. That wasn't a poke at you. We fabbed our own intake with a flange thickness to utilize the factory studs. The point was to everyone else that I have substantially more weight than a factory intake hanging off the side of the engine on the factory studs.
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05-26-2015, 03:42 PM
#52
I just found the 3 studs surrounding the #1 cylinder broken. They all broke within the nut. two of them still had the nut on by a thread, but the end of the stud was gone.
I was not running a brace. I did have a fabricated brace on it, but the lower attachment point had failed, so I just took it off. looks like I need to improve the lower mount.
I was not running a brace. I did have a fabricated brace on it, but the lower attachment point had failed, so I just took it off. looks like I need to improve the lower mount.
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05-30-2015, 02:35 PM
#53
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Join Date: Oct 2012
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Those of you breaking intake manifold studs, is 8000+rpm the common denominator? If so, are you running an aftermarket balancer? How about fully balanced rotating assembly? (Wondering if the SuperMiata balancer and the like would reduce high rpm vibration enough to combat vibration related failures?)
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