Its actually not that grey. Curly did back to back dyno testing on gutted manifolds. Squaretop has been proven to make the mist power stock. And any NA engine is going to nee . Standalone to make the most power.

 

FTFY

 

This isn't really hearsay at all. Lars pretty much spelled out the winning NA formula already.
If going NA, buy standalone, 99 + 1.8 (VVT for more torques), racing beat header, $$$ suspension, 9" wheels, etc.
As far as intakes go; square top> VICS>VTCS.
All of this has been tested extensively by members here.

Edit: go read hornetball's red car build thread and watch some of his videos for enlightenment.

 

All your answers: https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...project-63125/

 

Aidan my car was dynoing at 193 @6800 rpm.

The cost-effective path to HPDE championship glory:

Stage 1.0: the base platform
Stock brakes should be fine for Stage 1. Any number of pads will work, Hawk DTC-30 or Cobalt XR-2 for the fronts would be my recommendations. But you've got lots of choices at stock power levels.

Note that you can leave the VVT motor + ms3 out of that, and everything is still awesome, just down a bit on power.

Stage 2.0: power
your best $/hp is going to be Rotrex. Your lowest maintenance solution for FI is going to be Rotrex. Bolt it on, and everything will just work. You can do this to your base 1.8 for an easy 200whp. Stock rods/pistons are fine. MS3 now if you haven't already.
Stage 3 - moar power. moar money

Built motor - rods, ported head, better valve springs for overrev protection and to rev to 7500 consistently on track. Pistons optional depending on your desired power level. Note - based on Emilio's posts regarding life of the head when shifted past 7500, I wouldn't go above that on track. My head is built to be good to 8k but I'll be sticking to 7500 except for the occasional autocross.

You can change your pulley size at this point, or your wastegate, for more boost.

At any point you can add aero. See any number of cars for examples - mine, Crusher, Mr. Hyde's car, Lazarus, ThePass's car.


Lightweight + suspension + aero = fast car.

Add power = very fast car.


I'm receiving a vision from the future ... yes, it's coming in ... inb4 Voltwings posts on-track footage to this thread showing the Mustangs holding him up in the corners and refusing to lift on the straight

 

Bravo, /thread.

Damn I'm pretty sure that's like the 3rd time in a week I quoted 175 for you. To your face even. Were you ever at 175 or was that a figment of my imagination.

 

I believe I've had 175 tq, which may explain your confusion, padawan. Tq and hp, not the same they are.

 

Could be. Oh well, nice writeup.

 

Bravo to Mobius!

Volt, if you did as much reading as you claim, then surely you saw EErock's build thread? He did the standard formula and got over 150 whp on a stock 01 header, but every other NA standard recipe part. There was no conjecture and he had dyno sheets.

 

Copied, and saved to a word document so I can reference later ... kind of hard to argue with something like that, that is clearly a proven formula.


I think I'm just trying to have my cake and eat it too. I didn't want to accept the flat top / VICS manifold were better than my VTCS since mine makes more torque, but it is clearly a limiting factor on the top end. I'm just going to have to accept that minor torque loss for big gains on the top end. Who knows, I may be able to tune some of it back in with the VVT, but it just is what it is at this point.

 

Here is my $.02 and i'm just a nobody.

BP motors are a huge pita to get power out of. every event i go to guys with turbos spend more time in the pits fixing this issue or that issue. if you are looking into having a fun track car you'll need to spend the money on good quality parts. Street cars you can get away with the cheap stuff. i would say avoid any kind of power adders. basically your trading reliability for 50hp. on some tracks that 50hp might be worth 1 sec/lap

If you do want power get a LS1. that's what i did. 500hp and reliable as a corvette. but if you do get that much power you will need upgraded brakes and suspension.

 

Awwww, maaaan! I missed the party.

The focus on power is understandable. After all, you're driving your '01 Miata on the streets around Houston. When you push the "AC" button, your car turns into a 40HP VW Beetle. This, after driving a Mustang torque-monster for a couple of years. What can I say . . . on the street I either drive a Pontiac G8 w/LS3 or my turbo Miata.

But track, well, that's a different place entirely. How fast you can go and your lap time are determined much more by your MINIMUM speeds than by your TOP speeds. Your MINIMUM speed determines your speed for the entire lap. Your TOP speed, well, that's just a cool number on the vid at the end of one or maybe two straights. Giving it all away for power is a sucker's play. Here's a perfect illustration:


Wanna' be fast? Then focus on:

1. Reliability. Seat time bro'.

2. Weight. Affects everything, not just your time accelerating down a straight.

3. Grip. That's tires, suspension, balance. The formula is known. No reason to do things piece-meal unless you're just into wasting time and spending more over the long haul. BTW, a lot of us (including me) do waste time and spend more over the long haul by going cheap. It's hard to resist.

4. Power. Last for a reason.

Noobs and slow guys always put power first. Because, after all, it can't possibly be them that's slow (must be the car). LOL.

 

^word

 

This.

 

I'll just say that adding F/I to a track miata makes for a fast car, but the consumables price starts going up as well.

I think the sweet spot for a these cars is a 140whp N/A build- keeping the engine as stock as possible. Get the power with engine management and bolt-ons, that way your engine replacement cost is low. You'll also be able to keep stock brakes, stock radiator, no fear of breaking transmissions etc.