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Old 04-25-2012, 03:46 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Handy Man View Post


Does your hose spit out boiling water? If not you aren't cleaning anything but the bypass.

My initial impression of this forum was that most of the people here knew what they where doing... you are quickly changing my mind.
I wasn't serious about the water, lol. Can you really picture someone with all this experience and money in a car with a water-hose shoved into one end of the oil cooler to "clean it"? Come on dude. I'd totally re-use an oil cooler, if it came from a blown engine, I'd consider it and what it takes to clean one which I've never done. I'd probably pour acetone or something like that in there, then blow out both sides with compressed air.

If you had read through my epic build thread, you're realize that although you may change your mind on our value, it's highly unlikely that I'd make a mistake like that. You might also want to change the criteria by which you judge us. Agreement or accord with your opinion does not always foster success.
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:59 PM   #42
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Found this in the Accusump Thread:
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Originally Posted by wildo View Post
An all-in-one sandwich plate solution might be available from Maruha Motors. They have a new oil cooler kit. Their custom sandwich plate has 2 -10AN ports for oil feed/return lines, and two extra plugs which are intended for sensor use (1/8 NPT). From the pictures, it seems that all 4 ports are large, and that there are 2 -10AN adapters and 2 1/8 NPT adapters. If that is the case, I would think that the 1/8 NPT port(s) could be converted to -10AN. Just a thought.

Here's the Maruha sandwich plate:
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/parts/heatexchanger.htm

If you'd like, I can ask Saiji @ Maruha if the ports are configurable, and if he would sell the sandwich plates w/o the entire kit, and the price.



Damn, too bad it does not have a thermostat... and its in Japanese... and its not available individually...
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:04 PM   #43
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I wasn't serious about the water, lol. Can you really picture someone with all this experience and money in a car with a water-hose shoved into one end of the oil cooler to "clean it"? Come on dude. I'd totally re-use an oil cooler, if it came from a blown engine, I'd consider it and what it takes to clean one which I've never done. I'd probably pour acetone or something like that in there, then blow out both sides with compressed air.

If you had read through my epic build thread, you're realize that although you may change your mind on our value, it's highly unlikely that I'd make a mistake like that. You might also want to change the criteria by which you judge us. Agreement or accord with your opinion does not always foster success.
Damnit! Sorry... my sense of humor apparently sucks today.

I couldn't agree more about agreement not fostering success... that's why I'm asking for opinions on this in the first place. If someone could recommend a good method of cleaning out an RX7 cooler, I'd be all over it. I just haven't thought of one myself yet.

Regarding the Accusump. Why not just T it into the return line from the oil cooler?
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:47 PM   #44
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Regarding the Accusump. Why not just T it into the return line from the oil cooler?
That's what I would do, with a 1-way valve, of course.
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:19 PM   #45
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I was wondering about the one way valve, but then was thinking that the oil pump would be the "one way valve". (?)

Also, is the oil cooler pre or post oil-filter? If it cools the oil before it enters the filter, then there might be some security about dirt left in the cooler.

Last edited by gtred; 04-25-2012 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:39 PM   #46
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I was wondering about the one way valve, but then was thinking that the oil pump would be the "one way valve". (?)

Also, is the oil cooler pre or post oil-filter? If it cools the oil before it enters the filter, then there might be some security about dirt left in the cooler.
I believe that contrary to my logic, the pump does not work as a one-way valve for reasons I do not understand. Also, even if that is the case, you still have ~2' of internal chamber/tuning in the block to pressurize im addion to expect the Accusump to lubricate the rotating bits. Its a small increase in cost to dop the one-way valve, adn engineers created and provided it for a reason. Hopefully someone that knows more than me (doubtful) wll chime in.

I believe it is pre-filter because I think oil feeds from the outside and filters into the center section/threaded pipe. If that's true, which I think it is, I really question the need for cleaning a blow-engine oil cooler but understand that its generally not a good idea to introduce jagged metal into the oiling system in any capacity...especially if and when the oil filter fails.
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Old 04-25-2012, 07:48 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I'm not sure if it's worth keeping, I don't use it on my car and my temps are pretty bauce in the 103*f Texas heat.

Have you seen my oil cooler set-up? Why are you not complimenting me by duplicating it? There are two reasons I put everything on the interweb. One is to let everyone know that I and my car are better than anything they will ever know, the other is to help people out on things I've done before them.

I just searched through your threads to find your oil cooler setup. Do you have a link handy?
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:34 PM   #48
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I just searched through your threads to find your oil cooler setup. Do you have a link handy?
+1. He keeps saying "go look in my thread for god-tier oil cooler secrets" and all I find is posts of him worrying about things
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:52 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
2nd gen rx7 86-91 as far as I know. 3rd gen was different. Don't think first gen had anything but the water to oil cooler under the oil filter like the Miata has.
They switched over from the behive in 84. The 84-85 rx7 oil coolers are about the same as the FC rx7s. Just mounts a little differently.
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Old 04-26-2012, 10:51 AM   #50
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Regarding cleaning the RX7 cooler, the thermostat is a cartridge that unscrews from the body of the cooler allowing the free exchange of fluids at that point. Just like a night at Hustler's love lair.

Edit: Here is one with it removed:



Last edited by sixshooter; 04-26-2012 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:20 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by Handy Man View Post
by all accounts Setrab are the best oil coolers money can by
Proof of this? Side by side the Tru-Cool cooler looks like a much better cooler. (granted I am no oil cooler expert, just my opinion) In fact, since we started road racing Legends in '98 all of are over heating problems went away, that is when we went away from Setrab coolers. Plus like Hustler said, they are so much cheaper than Setrabs. And when you buy 20 at a time you get an even larger price break.
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:29 PM   #52
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FWIW the shop manual for the 2nd gen RX7 says that the oil cooler begins to open between 140-149*F. And yours truly acquired one today from my friendly neighborhood RX7 mechanic shop. Nice.
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:34 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
why not Tru-Cool coolers? they are less than half the cost:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...ol_Oil_Coolers

8x11 = $64

vs

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...ab_Oil_Coolers

setrab 7.5x13 = $238
You can buy a Setrab 7.5 x 13 used from Roush Yates for under $100: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Setrab-...4e7f6f&vxp=mtr

Considering they were used for probably 1 NASCAR race, it's a good way to get one for less than 1/2 price.
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:36 PM   #54
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Here's my take:

1. Thermostat. I see you live in WV. I'm in the northeast and run at tracks as far north as Ontario Canada and as far south (so far) as the boarder of NC. A thermostat is fine but not mandatory. A cardboard cutout zip tied to the front & back of the cooler makes a cheap and easy shroud for cold climates. That said, for a mix of daily & track driving in temp ranges from 20-100F, a thermostat would make life a lot easier. Same goes for rainy days, where a rained-on cooler works way too well. I have an external thermostat, the "H" shaped one by Mocal.

2. RX7 Cooler. The last thing the oil goes through, even if you have a remote cooler, is the filter (unless you have a remote filter too and routed the hoses wrong). So I'd guess a used cooler would be fine, but if that isn't your style, then there's nothing wrong with going with a brandy-new one. I did.

3. Stock Water/Oil Cooler. You don't need the stock water/oil 'cooler', but it WILL help your car warm-up faster, and it actually does an OK job with cooling (OK, not great). You'd be amazed at how long it takes your oil to get up to operating temperature. This happens way, way, way after water temps raise to operating temps.

4. Lines. If I had the choice, and I did, I would much, much prefer the ability to fix, modify, or create new lines at the track. Crimped fittings on custom hoses are fine, but have a backup plan or carry spares. I drive pretty far away for some of my events and would be PO'd to find myself in need of an essential hose that I can't get locally. This is why I made my own lines and carry the equipment and extra hose should I need to service them at the track (which I've never had to do).

5. Accusump. I have one, 2 quarts, in the trunk. Data showed that oil pressure was dropping to single digits at the end of heavy braking zones. With Accusump, problem solved. It is also nice to let 40-30 psi of oil pressure flow through the engine for 10 seconds before a cold-start.

6. I see you are in WV. If you'd like to take a peek at my setup, I'll be at Summit Point (main) on Mon-Tues May 7 & 8. Hell, if you want to run those days, let me know. I expect pretty much open track all day, track fee is only $125! Day 1 practice, day 2 practice + time trials with trophies, etc. Plenty of spots open.

Hope this helps,

Will
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:43 AM   #55
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Thanks for the great input Will!

In case anyone cares, I went with:

-Mocal sandwich plate to help with warm up and avoid over cooling
-Cheap B&M cooler because a lot of the local guys have had good success with them, and its easy to replace if its not good enough
-Hydraulic shop lines, but I'll have them make a spare as a backup

And I'm planning on getting an Accusump at some point, just not right now.

I can't make it to Summit those days, gotta work... but its sounds like a good time, thanks for the invite!

Nick: Good find on those used Setrabs! If the B&M doesn't work out, I'll definitely grab one of those (and soak in in mineral spirits :P)
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:52 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by reddragon128 View Post
I just searched through your threads to find your oil cooler setup. Do you have a link handy?


There is a 3rd arm-mount thingy behind it, where the horn bolted up.

I haven't gone over 230*f with this set-up yet, the same cooler mounted under the car maintained 230*f in 103* heat in traffic.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Handy Man View Post
Thanks for the great input Will!

In case anyone cares, I went with:

-Mocal sandwich plate to help with warm up and avoid over cooling
-Cheap B&M cooler because a lot of the local guys have had good success with them, and its easy to replace if its not good enough
-Hydraulic shop lines, but I'll have them make a spare as a backup

Nick: Good find on those used Setrabs! If the B&M doesn't work out, I'll definitely grab one of those (and soak in in mineral spirits :P)
Sorry to tell you after the fact, but those B&M/Canton brass oil coolers are huge pieces of ----. I could not get oil temps below 275-290*f and I had a very big cooler mounted under the car. I switched to an Earl's (Mocal built) which is ~60% of the Canton's size and temps dropped dramatically and stay at 230*f. I recommend you not waste your time with that POS.
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:17 PM   #57
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Hustler wins with placement. That plus a vented hood would be ****.
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Old 04-27-2012, 02:26 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Sorry to tell you after the fact, but those B&M/Canton brass oil coolers are huge pieces of ----. I could not get oil temps below 275-290*f and I had a very big cooler mounted under the car. I switched to an Earl's (Mocal built) which is ~60% of the Canton's size and temps dropped dramatically and stay at 230*f. I recommend you not waste your time with that POS.
The B&M is 100% aluminum
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:01 PM   #59
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Thanks for the great input Will!
...
I can't make it to Summit those days, gotta work... but its sounds like a good time, thanks for the invite!
Glad to help! Maybe someday us mid-atlantic/northeast MT.net guys will actually get together at a track event! I travel all over but have yet to meet any that are outside of my 'group'.
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:10 PM   #60
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Why not place it where it can get air flowing through it? Just curious.

(I have that area blocked off in my car to force air through the radiator)
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