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Old 04-27-2012, 07:52 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Handy Man View Post
The B&M is 100% aluminum
Whatever it is, I'm fairly certain its the same as my Canton cooler, they look exactly the same. There is no "webbing" between the air foil thingies and I think there are less of them. Its just not efficient. I don't want to sound like an ------- about this. However, I had hot oil, only swapped oil coolers and temps dropped significantly.

good luck.

Last edited by hustler; 04-27-2012 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:54 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by njn63 View Post
Why not place it where it can get air flowing through it? Just curious.

(I have that area blocked off in my car to force air through the radiator)
See that black plastic under it? There is a hole cut to feed the oil cooler and there is plastic "plastic welded" in place, sealed with aluminum tape. Air enters through and around the intercooler into a chamber, most air goes through the radiator, some goes up through the orifice, into the oil cooler, and out where the hood-latch was. I have a vented hood, but that is much further back.

This set-up works very well. I should get better pics. It worked fine under the car, but it was a rock-scooper.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:11 PM   #63
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the bottom (its zip tied and sealed with alumimum tape. Ugly but effective and it will tear the zip ties before it pull out the upper portion):

Oil cooler seal, riveted in place, sealed with tape:

another shot:


oil in (surprisingly low in 90*f heat):

The cooler works:

It shows only a 30*f drop, but I've run this car in the heat with the new set up at 103* ambient while chasing a Panoz and the oil temp gauge did not move. The place where they're stuck does not hold oil so the numbers don't really tell the truth. I don't know what I was thinking that day other than "I'm going to lose these last two temp strips if I don't use them."
This was fail:
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Last edited by hustler; 04-27-2012 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:40 PM   #64
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I would love to mount it like that, but what about those of us that still have stock good latches? I was looking into mounting to the steering rack FM style and ducting from under the bumper or through the middle of a modified GV lip. Fail?
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:51 PM   #65
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I would love to mount it like that, but what about those of us that still have stock good latches? I was looking into mounting to the steering rack FM style and ducting from under the bumper or through the middle of a modified GV lip. Fail?
Those of you with hood latches lack testosterone.

The FM style mount on the rack worked great on my car...but its asking for a rock or whatever to puncture the cooler. I pulled lots of weird ---- out of my duct all the time.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:59 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
Tap the pan? I've not been impressed with the oil drain plug probe adapter I have... I'm not CR.net low, but I'm low enough to worry.
:
Given that there is quite a lot of airflow under the car and around the oil drain plug, wouldn't adding a temperature probe to the oil drain plug be a little misleading?

I know people who like to relocate their oil filters in the transmission tunnel because they believe it will give them additional cooling (someone should make a vaned heatsink oil filter sleeve mounting for this to improve its cooling capacity even more).

Granted, it wouldn't be off by much but the fact that it is being air cooled would drop its reported temperature by a few degrees.

If you're after accurate information then this is important. For most people, relative (to your own installation) information is what's important so you can see if you're operating outside of your own "normal" parameters.
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:05 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lokiel View Post
Given that there is quite a lot of airflow under the car and around the oil drain plug, wouldn't adding a temperature probe to the oil drain plug be a little misleading?
Probably. That's why I don't like the pan *plug* location anyway.
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(someone should make a vaned heatsink oil filter sleeve mounting for this to improve its cooling capacity even more)
They do exist. Google "oil filter heat sink"

Last edited by EO2K; 04-27-2012 at 09:30 PM. Reason: added plug
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Old 04-27-2012, 09:12 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lokiel View Post
Given that there is quite a lot of airflow under the car and around the oil drain plug, wouldn't adding a temperature probe to the oil drain plug be a little misleading?

I know people who like to relocate their oil filters in the transmission tunnel because they believe it will give them additional cooling (someone should make a vaned heatsink oil filter sleeve mounting for this to improve its cooling capacity even more).

Granted, it wouldn't be off by much but the fact that it is being air cooled would drop its reported temperature by a few degrees.

If you're after accurate information then this is important. For most people, relative (to your own installation) information is what's important so you can see if you're operating outside of your own "normal" parameters.
I doubt air over the pan is going to alter the oil temp sender. I like the pan because that's the real oil temp, not the pressurized temp.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:14 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njn63 View Post
Why not place it where it can get air flowing through it? Just curious.

(I have that area blocked off in my car to force air through the radiator)
A heat exchanger is effective if there is high pressure on one side and low pressure on the other. Assuming that it's sealed properly, the inside of the front bumper cover will be a high pressure area. The engine bay is a lower pressure area, particularly if the hood is vented. Nature likes equilibrium, so air will flow from the high pressure area to the lower one--going through the oil cooler. Placing the cooler in an area where it would intuitively have good air flow won't work as well as placing it in an area with a good pressure differential.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:28 PM   #70
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Its a street car. Not digging drilling holes in a hood again. Maybe when I find a vented hood for the NB that doesn't look funky. I'm trying to keep it stock ish looking. I know mesh screens in grills are silly, but might try one for the cooler inlet. Try some before and after temp reading and try to keep crap out of the cooler. Isn't the rule of thumb to have the inlet 1/3 the size of the cooler frontal area?
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Old 04-29-2012, 03:23 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
RX7 cooler is good flow, good quality, and is a win. With the other ones and a non-thermostatic sandwich plate you could use a Michigan thermostat when you weren't on the track. Down here they call a Michigan thermostat a piece of cardboard over the opening of a heat exchanger. You could uncover the cooler for track days only. You don't really need it other times.
Its a good excuse to bend and fold a license plate to be "legal".

Without the cover- 160 degrees tops on the oil
With the cover- 180-190 degrees on an extended drive
Without the cooler- 210-230 degrees

This is all driving on the street at 30-65mph with a few fun runs.
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