Oil cooler tech
#45
Dont feel too bad. when I did mine I melted the 1/8"npt bung into an oval the first time and had to grind it off. And I put it on the drivers side in the sump for the sole reason that hustler said to put it there. After I put the engine back in I realized there was no ******* reason it shouldnt have gone on the passenger's side.
#46
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Dont feel too bad. when I did mine I melted the 1/8"npt bung into an oval the first time and had to grind it off. And I put it on the drivers side in the sump for the sole reason that hustler said to put it there. After I put the engine back in I realized there was no ******* reason it shouldnt have gone on the passenger's side.
For those following along at home, this location:
When I go full retard, I go all the ******* way.
#50
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When I put the temp sender in Theseus' oil pan, I was careful to locate it so that it wouldn't foul the motor mount. I then put the engine in the car and realized that it comes this close to hitting the subframe instead
#51
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It'll just force me to depower the rack. I'll bring over my spare and you can show me how to take it apart and get at the pinion.
My god, he is human! This actually makes me feel far better about the whole thing.
#52
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Perrrrfect. Thanks again! Props.
Along the same lines what freedomgli was just asking about, that looks the the only space avalible for the sensor is after the thermostat. I believe Andrew had said there was "some" leakage around teh thermostat when closed, but is there "enough" leakage that the sensor can give an accurate reading for say, warmup?
Along the same lines what freedomgli was just asking about, that looks the the only space avalible for the sensor is after the thermostat. I believe Andrew had said there was "some" leakage around teh thermostat when closed, but is there "enough" leakage that the sensor can give an accurate reading for say, warmup?
#54
Along the same lines what freedomgli was just asking about, that looks the the only space avalible for the sensor is after the thermostat. I believe Andrew had said there was "some" leakage around teh thermostat when closed, but is there "enough" leakage that the sensor can give an accurate reading for say, warmup?
BTW, what drives oil temps is RPM. It seems much more driven by high RPM operation (even at partial throttle settings) than by throttle position/load. I noticed this when I was doing some VE tuning and trying to hit high RPM/low MAP regions. Oil temp still soared in that condition.
#55
How temperature will differ from let say the oil drain location using VDO unit ?(323-055: Temperature Sender: 300F/150C - M14x1.5 - Screw - Single , by VDO - eGauges.com)
I mean it will see oil going through the pick up tube so maybe a little cooler but is the other way better ?!?
#56
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The above image was my oil return for the turbo. I mean it'll work, but I need to use it with a depowered rack. I posted pics of the temp bung location somewhere as well, but I'll stop crapping up Andrews awesome thread with my failures.
#57
Speaking of the VDO drain plug sender, what are people's current thoughts on this? I read a very old thread on miata.net where one guy said it was very slow to respond. Too much latency. He ditched it for a different sender attached to a sandwich plate for better response. Still the case? Or are people happy with the VDO drain plug sender?
#58
See, I took a look at the TSE kit, and thought "Do I want my oil thermostat to open at 180*? That seems low..."
Does anyone know if 180* for the oil is too low? Does anyone know what temperature range oil stays at during street driving with a stock setup(no cooler)?
Thanks
-Dustin
Does anyone know if 180* for the oil is too low? Does anyone know what temperature range oil stays at during street driving with a stock setup(no cooler)?
Thanks
-Dustin
Edit: Just realized it's alreday a 3 page thread and this was already answered. doh
That's Crusher, not the OGK. Anyhow, as Andrew alluded to, that motor and everything about it was anomalous, especially it's cooling systems. Unless you like building $10,000 145whp enduro engines, you're not likely to need nor want to duplicate anything on that puppy. O/C in front is preferred.
__________________
#59
I was having packaging worries about my cooler and put this together over the winter. It is a Setrab with some home brewed braided lines and a glowshift sandwich plate with no thermostat. I would not do this with a street car but mine is only run on the track so here were some of my reasons for the path I chose:
1. My heat exchangers are very heavily boxed and ducted so routing oil lines in front of the stack was problematic.
2. I wanted a sandwich plate with two bungs for sensors - one for temperature (pre-cooler) and one for an oh **** idiot light to compliment the NA6 pressure gauge. The NA6 sender is too thick for a traditional T.
3. Lacking a thermostat in the sandwich plate, I figured warmer air from the radiator would help warm the oil more quickly to a reasonable temperature.
The lines were the perfect length before my crossflow rotted out and I went with the fleabay cheapie that is much thicker. I didn't have time to make new lines and it is hard to cut 1/2" off the braided stuff to slightly shorten the length so I'll need to order a few more feet and start over. Some guys just stick a big RX7 cooler up under the bumper support with no airflow and let it act like a big heat sink so an oil cooler behind the radiator with some airflow had to be at least as good.
I ran one track day (50* ambient) with this configuration but the cooler line just looped and saw the oil temps hit 250*. I was on the track Thursday in Portland in ~90* ambient with ~280whp and turning consistent 1:27s on clean laps. The oil temperature never got above 210* while the water temps were solid at 205*. 90* is about as hot as we ever run in the PNW so I'm perfectly happy with these results. I've been on the track on much cooler days in this configuration and gotten similar temperatures so the cooler in this location is shedding a bunch of heat even taking in the hot air off the radiator.
1. My heat exchangers are very heavily boxed and ducted so routing oil lines in front of the stack was problematic.
2. I wanted a sandwich plate with two bungs for sensors - one for temperature (pre-cooler) and one for an oh **** idiot light to compliment the NA6 pressure gauge. The NA6 sender is too thick for a traditional T.
3. Lacking a thermostat in the sandwich plate, I figured warmer air from the radiator would help warm the oil more quickly to a reasonable temperature.
The lines were the perfect length before my crossflow rotted out and I went with the fleabay cheapie that is much thicker. I didn't have time to make new lines and it is hard to cut 1/2" off the braided stuff to slightly shorten the length so I'll need to order a few more feet and start over. Some guys just stick a big RX7 cooler up under the bumper support with no airflow and let it act like a big heat sink so an oil cooler behind the radiator with some airflow had to be at least as good.
I ran one track day (50* ambient) with this configuration but the cooler line just looped and saw the oil temps hit 250*. I was on the track Thursday in Portland in ~90* ambient with ~280whp and turning consistent 1:27s on clean laps. The oil temperature never got above 210* while the water temps were solid at 205*. 90* is about as hot as we ever run in the PNW so I'm perfectly happy with these results. I've been on the track on much cooler days in this configuration and gotten similar temperatures so the cooler in this location is shedding a bunch of heat even taking in the hot air off the radiator.
#60
This was my exact idea of how i wanted to setup my cooler. I may make a block off plate with a cutout in it and then mount the cooler on block off. So more air can make it through the oil cooler. I can afford a little less cooling through the radiator with my current setup im sub 180 degrees at cruise