slug_dub

@Midtenn Right thank you! These are the sorts of sense checks I need I don't mean to say that I used thread sealer as a way to not use o-rings.
I have o rings for the Orb fittings. They're not there in the Mocal located ones its true. I have just put it all together to make sure things worked... haven't filled yet.
The orb fittings in the cooler do have o rings too but I could and should put new ones and will do so.

RunninOnEmpty

iTrader: (5)

Hard to see, but looks like your thermostat outlet is feeding the top port of the cooler. You’d want it feeding the bottom so the air pockets are easily purged from the top one. I’d just switch them on your next oil change at the thermostat.

slug_dub

@RunninOnEmpty in the photo looking straight on at the Mocal, the line on the left (rearward on car) goes to the upper port on the cooler, right hand line going to the bottom. Is wrong?

RunninOnEmpty

iTrader: (5)

@slug_dub The rearward port is the outlet of the thermostat. When the oil gets hot, thermostat portion at the top will close, forcing all oil out the rear port and back in the front-facing port.

so you want the rear port connected to the bottom of the cooler.

hopefully this won’t get blocked:
https://vwparts.aircooled.net/v/vspf...che=1397903792

Derek1387

I’m just getting started on this thread, and looks like the Trackspeed kit which was highly recommended is now no more

any other all in one kit anyone recommends for the 1.8 for endurance racing?

curly

iTrader: (25)

I’ve installed a lot of mishimoto stuff, it’s not terrible if you don’t want to source all the parts yourself. Personally, I’d install a temp bung on the oil pan, and monitor oil temps for a race. I live in the PNW where we can get 100+ degree summer races, but not always. That being said, we campaigned a 140hp Miata without an oil cooler for a few years, never really had issues. Changed oil every race, but never monitored temperature. I’d install a sensor and make sure you’re cresting 260-280 before you get the cooler.

SlowTeg

Another option besides adding a bung is to use a drain plug adapter with a 1/8" npt thread in the middle for a temp sensor. Just put a 2 pin harness or female/male connections on the wires so the wires can be disconnected for oil changes. It really doesn't make oil changes much worse than stock.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

I will echo Curly, we ran a 130-140whp BP for years without an aftermarket oil cooler. We kept the stock cooler/heat exchanger in place. Just change the oil between each race weekend (14-24hrs total track time). Simple oil temp sender in the pan sump. We tried the stock MSM cooler (its larger than the standard 1.8 one) and didn't see a noticeable difference in the oil temps.

SlowTeg

What were the observed oil temps? I don't think some spec miata guys runs oil coolers either FWIW. I know they do change their oil frequently though.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

IIRC 240-250*F were the max temps we saw on the gauge. We ran Redline 30W race oil. Engine was torn down at the end of each season and inspected. Bearings were replaced, but only as a precaution since they are low cost, and we were down that far into the motor.

SlowTeg

That's barely warm for oil temps, not hot at all. Good to know. Thanks.