Oil sandwich plate: which to get?
#23
Boost Pope
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Two things:
A: These thermostats are designed to "leak" just a bit, even when "closed". Something about keeping oil moving through the system to prevent air pockets or some other random explanation. I suspect it's what causes these things to massively over-cool the oil when driven on the street.
B: Even if we suppose that the themostat is, in fact, 100% closed, you'd still have flow going to the turbo. This is a closed system, with pressure on both sides, so oil would simply flow backwards through the cooler and out into the turbo.
#27
if you're doing two plates to do an oil cooler, you'll be eliminating the stock oil cooler, so you'll actually *gain* some free space when you install the first plate as I'm pretty sure that a plate is thinner than the stock oil cooler from looks.
So, two plates = thinner thn stock cooler + 1 plate in my opinion
So, two plates = thinner thn stock cooler + 1 plate in my opinion
#28
I've been running this one from prosport for 2 years now. No problems whatsoever.
http://prosportgauges.com/oil-filter-adaptor-plate.aspx
http://prosportgauges.com/oil-filter-adaptor-plate.aspx
#29
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Bad idea.
The stock device does more than just cool the oil when it's hot; it also warms the oil when it's cool. Fact is that the engine coolant comes up to operating temp a lot more quickly than the oil when the engine is cold, and so the stock heat-exchanger actually helps to bring the oil up to operating temp more quickly, by transferring heat from the coolant into the oil. (Bloody magic, if you ask me.)
Again, going back to the "this is mostly a street-driven car" thing, I can't imagine why you'd want to sacrifice this functionality.
Sidebar: if Nagase is dead-set on running an external cooler, and also open to a remote filter, then ditch the thermostat sandwich-plate idea, and use an inline thermostat.
If you really want to be cool, plumb a set of bypass valves into it so you can close it off when running on the street.
#31
Yet more research done, and Bellwilliam said not to mount the oil sender on the engine, or it might crack. Looks like I'll need to figure something out... Might be best to get an inline thermostat for the cooler, actually. Abe suggested it with this plate:
http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Cooler-San.../dp/B000UO96Q0
Get that, inline thermostat, lines, oil cooler, get a turbo feed off the top, temp off the bottom (maybe? not sure if that's a good place), then remove the stock oil pressure sender and replace it with a firewall mounted unit.
http://www.amazon.com/Oil-Cooler-San.../dp/B000UO96Q0
Get that, inline thermostat, lines, oil cooler, get a turbo feed off the top, temp off the bottom (maybe? not sure if that's a good place), then remove the stock oil pressure sender and replace it with a firewall mounted unit.
#33
That doesn't agree with what he says here:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.p...40&postcount=4
And I'm more apt to err on the side of caution when it comes to losing my oil...
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.p...40&postcount=4
And I'm more apt to err on the side of caution when it comes to losing my oil...
#34
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Apparently he was not aware of the fact that '90-'94 Miatas had "big" oil pressure senders screwed directly into the block, and I can't say I've ever heard of one failing due to vibration.
I agree that hanging one out on the end of a long tee might be a questionable idea, but that's more about the tee failing. Lots and lots of people have screwed them directly into engine blocks, oil filter sandwich plates, etc., without any problems.
I agree that hanging one out on the end of a long tee might be a questionable idea, but that's more about the tee failing. Lots and lots of people have screwed them directly into engine blocks, oil filter sandwich plates, etc., without any problems.
#37
The stock device does more than just cool the oil when it's hot; it also warms the oil when it's cool. Fact is that the engine coolant comes up to operating temp a lot more quickly than the oil when the engine is cold, and so the stock heat-exchanger actually helps to bring the oil up to operating temp more quickly, by transferring heat from the coolant into the oil. (Bloody magic, if you ask me.)
I actually still have the factory exchanger installed, just not plumbed into the cooling system. When I built the motor I did a coolant reroute, capped off the feed at the back of the head, and made an adapter plate to run the front of the head straight to the turbo, bypassing both the throttle and the cooler.
So my factory cooler is just acting as a spacer right now (couldn't get the sandwich plate & AN fittings to clear if I removed it).
--Ian
#39
I've been running the Maruha for 3 years and so far no issue.
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/miata/parts/oilblock.html
Cheers,
http://www.maruhamotors.co.jp/miata/parts/oilblock.html
Cheers,
#40
I don't know if this is helpful or not, but on our S2000, we ran just a basic sandwich plate into the oil cooler, and mounted a remote mounted filter between the cooler and the engine. I think we may have mounted a 'big' sensor on a piece of braided hose to keep it from mounting directly.
I'm not a 100% sure though, but I think so.
Hope it helps.
I'm not a 100% sure though, but I think so.
Hope it helps.