The spacers could easily be aluminum though, its kind of the material of choice.
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1192890)
the spacers need to be a specific length to match the width of the original bushing. i didnt do the math on those, but unless they are exact, theyd have to be cut, or more spacers added. im not a washer stacking kind of guy.
im going to use retaining compound to hold mine in. discussed earlier in the thread. i wanted to keep them steel for those that wanted to weld them in. |
Add me to the list too. What kind of time frame are you looking at? Not in a hurry just curious.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1192892)
The spacers could easily be aluminum though, its kind of the material of choice.
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All the more reason to use the aluminum so it would be less likely to have the adjustment slip.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1192919)
All the more reason to use the aluminum so it would be less likely to have the adjustment slip.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1192892)
The spacers could easily be aluminum though, its kind of the material of choice.
Originally Posted by Failure
(Post 1192896)
Makes sense. What's the magic number here? Looks like it's somewhere around 2", which leaves these off the shelf spacers well short.
the 2 spacers you linked add up to 0.774", plus the bearing... yea its way short. the bore size is right though. ive never heard of emachineshop, im looking at it now, cool site.
Originally Posted by hingstonwm
(Post 1192903)
Add me to the list too. What kind of time frame are you looking at? Not in a hurry just curious.
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 1192917)
I wouldnt want them as aluminum because Im using that spot for camber adjustment with an eccentric bolt like the V8-r arms have. so I want it not to squish or gall easily. I can quickly and accuratily change rear camber settings without jacking up toe that way while utilizing hub stands and not taking it to a fancy alignment shop.
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 1192926)
Rear upper dosn't have that much load. but I have already squashed steel sleeves with as much clamp load as you can get out of the stock camber bolts.
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1192931)
the stock bushing steel insert measures 2.215" long.
16mm aluminum spacer x2 14mm Teflon lined bearing 56mm total = 2.205" Close enough? |
Originally Posted by Failure
(Post 1192937)
5mm steel washer x2
16mm aluminum spacer x2 14mm Teflon lined bearing 56mm total = 2.205" Close enough? im going to take some of your ideas and play around with the options to see how cheap i can get these. id shy away from any of the bearings you linked. at $3.30 each, how can they be anything decent? |
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 1192926)
Rear upper dosn't have that much load. but I have already squashed steel sleeves with as much clamp load as you can get out of the stock camber bolts.
What about offsetting the holes in the sleeves? Would be a pita to adjust though. I am still planning on making a set, but will most likely do them in 303 stainless as I have some material sitting around. I only have access to a manual lathe, so I am sure it'll take me at least a few hours to whip out a set. --Ferdi |
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1192951)
i like the way youre thinking, but that bearing is way too small. but yea, 10 thou isnt going to make a huge difference.
im going to take some of your ideas and play around with the options to see how cheap i can get these. id shy away from any of the bearings you linked. at $3.30 each, how can they be anything decent? |
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1192931)
the spacers are and will be aluminum. i used 3/4" 6061 for our spacers.
i made ours out of aluminum bob, i could have done them out of steel for you if i had known, and i just shipped them out this morning:giggle: even worse, if you have an eccentric setup, the holes in your arms are larger, so the 3/4" stock i used wont play as nice. :facepalm: well you want to give em a shot and see if they work? if not ill be glad to make some steel ones for you. |
Originally Posted by ftjandra
(Post 1192952)
So you're using a stock camber bolt in this location? How many degrees of camber adjustment are you getting?
What about offsetting the holes in the sleeves? Would be a pita to adjust though. I am still planning on making a set, but will most likely do them in 303 stainless as I have some material sitting around. I only have access to a manual lathe, so I am sure it'll take me at least a few hours to whip out a set. --Ferdi The worry with aluminum spacers is that they wont handle repeated adjustments too well if I start jacking with the settings a lot. I used rapid back to back testing of settings to find what works. Found my high hp car likes a boatload of front camber and not so much rear camber. I might even go so far as to change camber for different types of events. Prosolo is much more heavily weighted towards getting a good launch. |
Bob, how do you get the front camber bolts so tight? I cant even get the box end of my wrench on the nut of the back one next to the chassis. So I just tighten them until I cant get the open end to stay on anymore. Which still gets me to the torque spec of hinnngggggggggggaragghraaerahra. I'm due for new bolts next time I change alignment and the switch to nylocs so the bolts last longer.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1193006)
Bob, how do you get the front camber bolts so tight? I cant even get the box end of my wrench on the nut of the back one next to the chassis. So I just tighten them until I cant get the open end to stay on anymore. Which still gets me to the torque spec of hinnngggggggggggaragghraaerahra. I'm due for new bolts next time I change alignment and the switch to nylocs so the bolts last longer.
specs from my manual are forward front lower 69-83 ft lbs aft front lower 61-76 ft-lbs rears 54-70 I would guess I'm going to something over 100. forward front lower is the worst. Having grease all over from trying to grease urethane bushings doesn't help. grease works at lowering friction between metal surfaces unlike its rapid complete failure at lubricating urethane effectively. |
I just had an Idea how to possibly make Urethane bushings 1000X better.
The inner sleeve on my V8R bishings are 7/8”. If I redesign the sleeves splitting them in two pieces machine the center down to ¾” OD I can insert Teflon and oil impregnated bronze sleeve bearing for a ¾” shaft with a 7/8” OD between the urethane and the inner shaft. McMaster-Carr Might work better than delrin even because the flexability of the urethane will prevent binding. |
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 1193038)
I just had an Idea how to possibly make Urethane bushings 1000X better.
The inner sleeve on my V8R bishings are 7/8”. If I redesign the sleeves splitting them in two pieces machine the center down to ¾” OD I can insert Teflon and oil impregnated bronze sleeve bearing for a ¾” shaft with a 7/8” OD between the urethane and the inner shaft. McMaster-Carr Might work better than delrin even because the flexability of the urethane will prevent binding. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1193044)
That probably cant hurt. You can also just make the upper inners with aluminum instead of delrin and use the bronze itself as the inner sleeve. With a precision cut spacer between the two flanges bronze bushings.
I would probably use 316L stainless as it has about twice the yield strength of the mild steel used by the Energy Suspension ones that I have mushroomed the ends on. It’s not that expensive from Onlinemetals.com in small quantities. |
I dont think the 3/4" 6061 aluminum spacers will work for me. by the time I drill them out for a 12 mm camber bolt and try to clamp them up between slotted adjustment holes they crush the ends way too easily for lack of contact surface area and low yield strenght.
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Be careful on using aluminum spacers around spherical bearings. I purchased a name brand panhard rod for my Corolla GT-S (AE86) back in the day that used aluminum spacers. I torqued everything down and didn't see any issues. A few months later the rod end broke because the aluminum had deformed and bound up the rod end. The company I purchased the panhard now uses steel spacers after I found a few other users with the same problem.
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