I did this on my car however I mounted the Tilton adjuster next to the ebrake and routed the cable through the fire wall on the passenger side so the cable only makes one 90 degree turn and I was able to use the stock proportioning valve mounting bracket. for first I tried routing the cable kinda like this guy did and there was way too much resistance on the **** so I'm not sure how he made it work.

 

No issue with any resistance, you probably just had it looped tighter than I did. Or the Tilton ****/cable setup just isn't as smooth as the Wilwood one.

 

dang yeah, thats what I get for saving on shipping and buying multiple items from one shop.

you are in Chicago I see, I just started a yahoo group "turbo miata chicago" and a social group on miata turbo so hopefully the chicago guys can do a meet this summer for beer or whatever and sync up on some track events.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/turbomiatachicago/

 

I've just finished a complete part out and sell off. Well... mostly finished.
So my meet time will be filled with doing other stuff these days.

Try this FB page for other midwesters, http://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/138919872835153/

 

if you dont mind me asking, why. my routing might have been tighter, also when I made the bracket it slightly bent the spring seat plate so that may have decreased resistance.

 

Why what?

 

why.. are you parting the car? did it get wrecked? loose interest? move on to another project?

 

Ah, just taking a break and cleaning house.

 

why do you guys just run it inside?? i just finished redoing my brake line fore my prop valve and hydro hand brake. i bought lines from pegasus ( they are a goodridge dealer and can custom make any brake line) so i got them with the fittings i needed so i didnt need to many adaptors ( less leaks)



while it may be a little more expensive, it looks a hell of alot better, not to mention you dont have you prop valve floping around in your engine bay

 

my valve is mounted to the stock bracket with the stock bolt it aint going anywhere. I did it this way because I did not want to take the time to figure out the fittings, order new ss lines or make my own hard lines and buy the flare tool. I'm not sure how much the lines cost,but for something I wont use very much the path of least resistance was best for me. it works and it is done so im happy.

If it were me, I would've mounted it on the other side out of the way

 

Awesome idea! I'm definitely copying this, as I was dreading the work involved in running the brake lines.

 

you mean like this:



?

 

You can just mount the valve in the tunnel just on the opposite side of the parking brake. No need for cables, etc.
Everything is on under the car, only the control is inside - this way it looks OEM.
I used the lever type Tilton one so I can do quck adjustments per corner while driving when I need it.

 

Watch for leaks. I'm on my 3rd Wilwood slave.

 

why dont you post of the specs of the stainless lines (the length, fittings size, where you got them and cost) so other people can do this more easily if the choose to go this route.

this would be a nice simple product for FM, TSE, 949, to add to their offerings hint hint

 

Or you could mount it like Curly posted in posts 18/19 of this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/flyin-miata-miata-accessories-48/wilwood-complete-adjustable-brake-proportioning-kit-28557/

Much cleaner and hard lines are better than braided lines.

 

I agree with this guy ^^^^


I should note that 4 years later I've had zero leakage, rust, corrosion, or other issues. I think I almost immediately re-did one of the lines with a pipe cutter. You need those cuts perfectly straight for the double flare tool. If you're investing $40 in the double flare tool, spend the $10 to buy the pipe cutter.

 

Nice? Sure. Although I've never had the desire to alter bias while driving, it's always nice to have more adjustment available to the driver on the fly.

Simple? Hardly. Putting the valve inside the car requires you to cut into the factory brake line, add new metric fittings, properly double-flare both sides of the factory line, route the brake line into the car without kinking it, mount the prop valve, attach the two new lines (assuming you bought them pre-flared and in the perfect length), and ensure that none of the four additional flare connections you made leak.

The engine bay kits offer 95% of the benefit of an in-car install with maybe 20% of the labor outlay and 50% of the cost. I can put one of our prop valve kits into a car in ~30 minutes, and that includes pressure bleeding the brakes. The people who absolutely have to have the valve in the car are more than capable of buying the pipe cutter and double-flare tool and doing the install without a kit.

 

I think he meant the cable operated ****. I'm not sure why he can't buy it at summit or something though. One stop shopper perhaps.

 

No, read it again. He was talking about all the stainless lines/fittings to do a setup like that.