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Old 06-17-2014, 03:36 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Dont all the adapters do that?
Yes, but theirs is more minimalist/shallow which reduces issues of stack-up length, i.e., steering wheel in the chest.

I have their splined QR which I bought off of local spec racer - it's a nice piece, though for piece of mind I suggest a set crew AND ample loctite (I didn't want to tack weld).

-Zach
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:40 PM   #22
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Bleh, I dislike splined quick releases. Getting the wheel back on straight is a pain and they always loosen up. You can hate on them for being a knock off of the works bell, but the NRG QR is a damn good piece (except for the slim QR), and the slim hub is real nice too.
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:58 PM   #23
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May want to rethink not tack welding the QR. It's no fun when you turn left and the car continues straight towards a stationary object
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:44 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Bleh, I dislike splined quick releases. Getting the wheel back on straight is a pain and they always loosen up. You can hate on them for being a knock off of the works bell, but the NRG QR is a damn good piece (except for the slim QR), and the slim hub is real nice too.
I was thinking this.

Miatacage Steering Shaft Adapter for Mazda Miata

Plus this.

S-Box Engineering Quick Disconnect

A little pricey, but I like how the wheel can only go on one way.
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:54 PM   #25
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The s-box is really weird. but it looks like it will eventually get the same slop problem as splined QRs. Why the Works Bell/NRG ball style works so well is that as it wears the ***** can just push in further, up to a point, and it should wear much slower than a splined adapter. If NRG scares you, you could always buy the works bell one, the price has come down substantially in recent years.

Do people really run that miata cage one with only 3 bolts that a threaded into aluminum and not steel?
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:13 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Do people really run that miata cage one with only 3 bolts that a threaded into aluminum and not steel?
Who gives a ****? The "pull-out" load for threaded 6061/7075 is going to be far more than required for this application, not that it matters since a steering wheel shouldn't really see significant loads in this direction. The bolts are taking most of the load in shear when you're yanking the wheel back and forth with stickies and a manual rack.

Worry about the quality of the fasteners.

-Zach
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:17 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miata2fast View Post
I was thinking this.

Miatacage Steering Shaft Adapter for Mazda Miata

Plus this.

S-Box Engineering Quick Disconnect

A little pricey, but I like how the wheel can only go on one way.
that sbox one is expensive. very expensive.
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:17 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thasac View Post
Who gives a ****? The "pull-out" load for threaded 6061/7075 is going to be far more than required for this application, not that it matters since a steering wheel shouldn't really see significant loads in this direction. The bolts are taking most of the load in shear when you're yanking the wheel back and forth with stickies and a manual rack.

Worry about the quality of the fasteners.

-Zach
Bolts should never be loaded in shear.
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:18 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by unk577 View Post
May want to rethink not tack welding the QR. It's no fun when you turn left and the car continues straight towards a stationary object
Both the shaft threads and set screw threads were coated in high strength loctite ... it's only coming loose with heat.

-Zach
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:23 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Bolts should never be loaded in shear.
Ideally, yes.

This said, show me an aftermarket wheel assembly which doesn't have bolts in shear. Unless everyone elses Momo wheels are splined ('cause mine ain't!), then theres thousands of people driving around with bolts in shear.

-Zach
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:27 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thasac View Post
Ideally, yes.

This said, show me an aftermarket wheel assembly which doesn't have bolts in shear. Unless everyone elses Momo wheels are splined ('cause mine ain't!), then theres thousands of people driving around with bolts in shear.

-Zach
My NRG isnt loaded in shear. Because I tightened the bolts enough to make them not loaded in shear.
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:40 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
My NRG isnt loaded in shear. Because I tightened the bolts enough to make them not loaded in shear.


My point was the primary failure mode which one should be concerned about is the hardware loosens due to NHV and exposes the bolts to shear loads. Threaded aluminum is not an issue - just loctite the hardware so it can't back out and wear the threads or put the bolts in shear.

-Zach
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:32 PM   #33
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Go suede! Love my OMP Corsica! Feels awesome on the track with gloves.
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:11 AM   #34
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We have had the same reports going on in this thread. Suede feels fantastic but will build up dirt, and get matted. if your going to change out wheels every year get the suede. If you only want to buy one wheel then get the leather.

Quote:
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Driving with racing gloves on the street is unpleasantly hot. Vintage style driving gloves is not my style...

You can always protect the suede from greasy hands with a pink fury cover.
I might order one of these. We got a Joes Racing aluminum wheel in our miata. on a hot day that thing will melt your fingers. but it's crazy light.
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:16 AM   #35
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I might order one of these. We got a Joes Racing aluminum wheel in our miata. on a hot day that thing will melt your fingers. but it's crazy light.
Thats the wheel I bought I wrapped it with tennis racket grip.

How did you guys adapter it to a 6 bolt hub? I couldnt find an adapter that to do a 3 bolt wheel on a 6 bolt hub (billions of adapters to put 6 bolt wheels on 3 bolt hubs though) so I end up making my own, not terribly happy with the centering of it.
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Old 06-19-2014, 03:23 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Thats the wheel I bought I wrapped it with tennis racket grip.

How did you guys adapter it to a 6 bolt hub? I couldnt find an adapter that to do a 3 bolt wheel on a 6 bolt hub (billions of adapters to put 6 bolt wheels on 3 bolt hubs though) so I end up making my own, not terribly happy with the centering of it.
all the new joes racing wheels come as a six bolt. We need to add them to our website. the tennis racket wrap is genius BTW.
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Old 06-19-2014, 03:26 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by OGRacing View Post
all the new joes racing wheels come as a six bolt. We need to add them to our website. the tennis racket wrap is genius BTW.
Hmm. Mine isnt, its Grant 3 bolt. Which also isnt the same as Kart 3 bolt. Mine definitively isnt Momo or Nardi 6 bolt
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Old 06-19-2014, 04:21 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Hmm. Mine isnt, its Grant 3 bolt. Which also isnt the same as Kart 3 bolt. Mine definitively isnt Momo or Nardi 6 bolt
interesting.. i'm away from the miata at the moment. let me check it out and report back to you.
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Old 06-19-2014, 04:41 PM   #39
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Maybe they've changed them. On the Joe's Racing site it looks like 6 bolt now but too small of a diameter pattern to work. I know on my wheel the center section is straight up too small to re-drill for the momo 6 bolt pattern.
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Old 06-19-2014, 04:53 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Maybe they've changed them. On the Joe's Racing site it looks like 6 bolt now but too small of a diameter pattern to work. I know on my wheel the center section is straight up too small to re-drill for the momo 6 bolt pattern.
We ran the Joes racing quick disconnect that we would not recommend. it had a 3 bolt, but after a year of use it has a lot of play in it. to be totally honest it had a lot of play when we installed it. if you looking for a weld on, do a woodward or longacre. It's hard to beat the momo or sparco bolt on.
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