All you need to do is 100% seal the opening at the front of the bumper to the rad. As long as your IC doesn't block a huge amount of the rad, it can just sit in free air (inside the ducting for the rad).

Don't quote me on that though, I've never done it, just read about the other people who have.

 

You could scoop air from the air dam/splitter/lip and duct it back, under the IC and up between the rad and IC to force cold air around the IC.

Alternatively you could cut the top of the bumper cover and use that high pressure area to feed cold air over the IC and through the radiator, that's been done as well. With a vented hood venting air between the rad and the block in that low pressure area, you boost this effect even more. Both have been done on here before.

 

mine looks similar to this.


https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...g-ideas-69274/

 

Hardly. There is nothing wrong with the M-Tuned reroute - despite what a lot of folks think, it functions perfectly and is significantly better made than anything BEGi offers.

 

You mean like this guy?

https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...40/#post413249

Sorry, couldn't resist.

M-Tuned is a nice piece of kit. But, again, that bleed hole in the thermostat is critical for correct operation.

 

hey guys everything seems to be working fine. it was only about 75-80 today but the car ran awesome. what did I change? I removed a stip of foam from the bottom of the intercooler blcoking air from going under the IC to the radiator. I'm going to clean it up and make the plastic sheet have a 1 inch scoop below the IC and I think Iwill have no problems

max oil temp 220 perhaps a little higher

consistent water temp about 90-95 c give or take ,about 190F =perfect

hard to believe that this strip of foam caused my issues but it seems to be the case.

did get a oil leak, loose oil pressure sender, my fault. fixed and all is well.

when the temp outside gets to 100 i may need to revisit but I hope not

now I cant wait to start working on suspension and my tune! still needs much work but its pretty fun to drive.

thanks for all the help, lots of good suggestions and good people here!

 

In theory, having the thermostat away from the head is bad, but in practice it makes no functional difference.

 

It's a bit warmer here most of the year but I found it necessary to add an external oil cooler as I started turning up the power and running 40 or 45 minute sessions instead of 20 or 25 minute sessions. Everything gets heat soaked and baked. I may end up venting my hood eventually, but the next step I will make if I overheat again will likely be to install the larger oil cooler I have on my shelf. I went with the smaller one originally because if required less fabrication.

 

yeah I don't think you get very far without a oil cooler on a track car anywhere, especially a turbo. i have a b&m 8x11 core. seems good, my oil cooler duct blew out which I think accounts for slightly higher oil temps but I'm totally fine with 240 even 260 oil temps. after that I'm out.

 

if the ducting does not work during the heat of the summer I may need a better core but I think it should be fine. I used the same core on a car with way more power.

did you guys delete the water oil heat exchanger?

 

Definitely not. That is supposedly a very effective unit. Supplement it with an external unit.

 

The factory unit? My understanding was that it was just to bring oil up to temp a bit quicker.

 

With a good working cooling system a low temp thermostat may be helpful in keeping oil temps in check when using the OEM oil cooler only.
Any drawback to think about when running the lower temp thermostat (ms2 ECU)?

 

If you're overwhelming the cooling system with a 190 t-stat, a 180 t-stat will do the exact same thing.

 

Yea, that will cause you problems. I had a similar setup and had some overheating issues. Simply prying the ducting away from the intercooler about half an inch made a big difference, so I went ahead and redid the entire ducting to open up about 4" of bypass below the IC.

 

I know that a lower temp thermostat will not fix a cooling system that is running hoter than the temperature where the termosthat is fully open because of insufficient cooling capacuty as stated early on this thread, and i velive that running the cooling system 10 deg cooler will increase the heat transfer on the oil to water cooler and that cannot hurt on the oil temp side .
My question was is there a negative effect of runing a lower temp thermostat when running a MS2 that gives the user full controll over enrichement at the lower water temperature.

 

Negative of running a lower temp thermostat: Your oil will warm up more slowly. Oil temps are far more important than water temps...up until exactly the point in time where your water begins to boil. If you don't have to worry about your water boiling, then you should be paying attention to your oil temps.

 

I suppose that I should weld a bung on the pan for an oil temp sender before installing the motor back in the car...

 

Or just use a tee on the oil feed line for the turbo or sandwich adapter on the oil filter adapter.