I'm currently using a Tundra with a topper and I hate crawling in and out of it to load stuff. I'm glad I can (sort of) lock stuff up and keep things dry but if I was going to the track more than 4 times a year I would want a van. Or if I was regularly loading or unloading anything I would want one. Most days the bed is empty so it matters not.

As for trailer brakes I am certain you don't need them unless your trailer weighs a lot more than your Miata. When I lived in Colorado, a state known for its flat mountains and flat ravines we would often pack camping gear floor to ceiling in the back of the Astro and pull a boat full of fuel and gear and its trailer all through the flat mountain passes on weekend expeditions seeking out rainbow trout and the like.

You see, the secret to towing a trailer is driving as if you are towing a trailer. It's not a Miata. You can't tailgate or drive as fast. You actually have to pay attention a little further up the road and begin slowing earlier for turns and stops. You have to take corners slower, moreso when it is wet out. You must go slower than you would like when going down steeper grades and select a lower gear to provide engine braking. It will try your patience if you are not used to it. It is just different. It requires more judgement, patience, attentiveness, and responsibility. Much like track driving, it is a different skillset than standard driving. Not everyone does it well.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1322841551
Or maybe a tranny-stripper mural.

I know this sounds totally retarded, but is there anything more epic and relaxing than leaving early everytime, turning up the music, and pulling the car to the track? That is "America". That time I pumped gas while urinating as a cop drove by, genitals hidden by the Miata...that was "America" too.


I've been looking at older Cummins trucks today, this is not good.

Or you properly equip your rig and don't have to drive like you're in a 50s GM product with 4 wheel drum brakes. I don't know about you but after baking in the sun for 8-9 hours in the southeast I'm not exactly on my A game driving home on Sunday. You can plan and be careful all you want but when a Semi blows a steer and ends up in your lane forcing you to act like you're 300ft from T1 you're going to want all the brakes you can get. Good brakes aren't for when everything goes well, it's for when you need to stop right now. The incremental cost of adding brakes is so small compared to what most of us spend on this hobby per year makes it an almost a silly thing to be cheap on.

The whole argument is moot anyway, he's in NC. No brakes, no tow over 4k. 3k in the states that actually have tracks around here, SC and DC require all axles to have brakes. Also don't forget you're going to have to get weighted tags on your truck. I think I pay ~90/yr for my tags for 9000# gross.

On the loading up pain, get a camper top for the truck. Mine came with one and it makes loading/unloading so much easier. Leer doesn't have the height listed but I've never had to get on my hands and knees to load up. I've never had one before but for sure the next truck I get will have one. I might get the next one smaller as I'm sure I take a MPG hit with this cap on.

Mine looks like this except on an older, rustier F150.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1322854087

Pulling into the gas station with the car on a trailer and hooking up both pumps at the same time.

But even more in a bus. You do get 8mpg though and have the possibility to pay out the ass to tow it if anything happens to it, but that won't happen right? We picked up ours for $2000 and I know that it can tow at least 20,000 lbs, as they regular use one bus to tow another.

Bonus is if the track has water/electrical hookups you can fill your jacuzzi and set some mood lighting. Just make sure you drain the jacuzzi before leaving the track. That can make a real mess in the bus.

You mean like an old school bus? Hustler should get a short bus.

Yup. 1982 Thomas Transitliner. 9124ccs of turbocharged glory.

This guy came in today to pick up one of our boats. 2006 Dodge Dually Cummins. 573,000 miles. Truck looks and runs great. Helluva Hauler.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1322870051

^THAT is a truck. Somebody tell Rick.

Looks like you could just about fit a Miata in the inside of that bus, if it weren't for the engine.

Just found out a local school is selling 5-6year old busses with 300k miles on them for $2500. I may need to grab a back up.

This is wrong, as inter-state reciprocity allows someone from NC to tow into SC or anywhere else for that matter with single axle brakes. For instance, when I purchased my enclosed, it was towed into NC from TN with no plate, because trailers dont have to be tagged in TN. The previous owner DID have it tagged in an effort to reduce the hassle of towing out of state, but he was well within his right not to pay for the (semi trailer :giggle: ) tag.

And yeah, the weighted tag bullshit is just that, bullshit. I have our truck tagged for 14k, which comes in at $168 a year IIRC. More impetus for buying the van, they don't have to register with a weighted tag because they aren't a "property carrying vehicle". If you buy a truck, you'll be buying the weighted tag. Also realize that by picking up the weighted tag, you open yourself to be weighed at any time, you have no right of refusal. I can tell you areas to avoid if you dont want to be weighed. Also, if you go the truck and enclosed route at some point, plan on spending some cash for "NOT FOR HIRE" to go on the sides of the trailer.

Oh, the stories I could tell about sitting on the scales...

I bet my apartment complex would really appreciate a bus on their hands, lol.

There's some drama right now over payload weight stuff in Krum, TX which is near a local track. Apparently lots of guys in AI were stopped at the NASA race, it seems they paid for 3000lb payload permits and most of their lightened Camaros and Mustangs are under 3000lb. The local police decided to go buy OE wet-weight instead.

Late to the party, but $5k will buy you a 5.4 F250 or Excursion. Go with a 3/4 ton over the Expedition--everything is bigger which makes towing easier and more reliable without a major impact on cost of ownership.

I recommend 2wd and the 3.73 diff for economy, which is how mine is set up. I have a 99 supercab. Last trip to Florida and back I averaged 13 mpg with the Miata on my open 18' tandem @ 78-80 mph. Great truck, but I'm starting to itch for the supercrew (which is not happening at $5k).

Gas Excursions are cheap.

I found my gas Excursion to be really gutless, the diesel was amazing.

In Canada, a low KM Excursion in gas and say 05 goes goes around $12,000. A diesel is around $30,000. Again, thats if you can find a low mileage Excursion in gas or diesel. Most on the market here are off duty service trucks (ie: police).

My Kommrade,
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1323097948

:giggle:

lol, this forum is like a festering mental illness. What is wrong with us, and why is it funny?

Yeah they are. Everyone I know who had one (to be honest was only 2) said it was worthless for towing as it had NO power.

If I were looking for a cheap tow vehicle for a dual axle open hauler, then I would really look at an f250 with a gas engine. I have customers that come in with either those or Chevy 2500 gas and they say they never really have problems with them. The work hands are unbelievably harsh on them and they basically live on a right of way. Any issue you would have would be fairly easy and cheap to fix. Parts are dirt cheap for them. That is if you were only looking for a tow vehicle and not a DD replacement.

If I were looking for something that was going to replace a DD with something I could tow with and leave some room for a nice 20' enclosed, I would probably get the new Tundra. Smooth as butter on the highway and tow very well. Rated for 11,000 lbs.

Lots of really nice tow vehicles up in hurr. But he is only hauling a gutted 2000lb Miata. Lots of overkill up in hurr. :)

Id much rather opt for a bit of overkill when it came to stopping or turning a couple thousand pounds of dead weight behind me...

Americans will tell you that a:

• Twin axle car hauler is for loads no larger than a Hot-Wheel
• 1-ton dually on a triple-axle goose neck is required to pull a lawn mower
• BNSF train engine is required for a Miata, and you'll need a Sikorsky Sky Crane to get it to the train yard

Reh reality is that I've pulled lots of vehicles with small trucks and SUVs and done just fine. I want a Cummins and I'd commit murder for one.

The Ex and F250 are the same truck--also nearly identical to F350 SRW (minor changes to rear suspension based on options and model year--my F250 has the optional heavy duty suspension and is exactly the same as F350 except for badging). Base engine makes 350 ft-lbs torque. Perfectly fine to do what we're talking about.
The diesels make a lot more torque down low and feel a lot snappier, but the gasser will rev up and get the job done with these small trailers. If you were pulling a huge box or equipment around all the time, the diesel is better.

...or "roll coal".

I was horribly unclear with what I was saying. The gas excursion can be had for cheap comparatively to the diesel variant, but a gas f250 can be had for even cheaper. If I was looking for a cheap tow to the track and back vehicle, it would be an older f250. I know they are the same frame and the same suspension is available. I was just trying to say that for a cheap a-b track hauler, I would go with the F250 for even less money. It all made sense in my head. The people I knew thought that it could be a replacement for their 7.3L powerstrokes and they were wrong. For simple stuff like this it is no sweat.

Having said that, if anyone is looking at new trucks for pulling a lot of weight, I LOVE my 6.7L Diesel. I have had a 7.3, 6.0, 6.4, and now the 6.7L. We put about 200,000 miles on the first 3 and have 60,000 on the 6.7L. The truck pulls great and is way better than the 6.4 that it replaced. Avoid the 6.4 like the plague.

Around here, gas F-series supercrew will sell for the same or more than the Ex. Regular cab F series however can be had dirt dirt cheap, especially in XL trim. Generally the gas trucks are a bit tough to find, especially in 5.4. The diesel trucks are everywhere. It's complete opposite with the SUV, gas is everywhere but diesel is rare and still fairly expensive.

We just took the boss' 6.7 to Florida pulling a 24' box. That truck is amazing and has sooo much power.

I would have given a left nut if we could have found an 2011 F250 King Ranch when we were shopping. Had to settle for the F150 instead. :dunno:

I'm considering paying someone to severe my vas deferns, maybe we can work a deal. :dunno:

WOOT, just saw on cl what looks like a good deal on a diesel supercrew less than half an hour away. They're meeting me after dinner. We shall see...

If I get it, I'll have my supercab gasser for sale, which is a great tow vehicle for what we do. I've just been itching for a crew.

Best tow vehicle ever!

Anybody have any experience with the 2001-07 Toyota Sequoia? They have a 4.7L V8,the 2WD can tow 6500lbs, and I'm finding decent ones in my budget ($6-8k).

I'm considering a 14-18' (ideally aluminum) car hauler, and would like a tow vehicle that a) I won't detest driving every day (not really into pick ups or vans) and b) I can sleep in at the track.

From what I've read the tow capacity of 6500 pounds is only 05+ when it got VVT

yep, I had a chance at this very nice e-150 van, but I had to pass after seeing how difficult (impossible) it would be to work on and the fact that I can't imagine myself driving around in it all the time, I had to pass.

I think they would do fine, I have seen plenty of people towing boats with those.

I have a trailex open aluminum trailer and have been my Miata for years with a 2000 Olds Bravada. 170,000 and still running strong.

Everywhere I've looked says 6500lbs for the 2WD (6200 for 4WD).

This is a good reference - there is a PDF for each model year with towing capacity. It's crazy how complicated it gets for the Ford/GM/Dodge lineups given that capacity is different depending on differential gear, transmission, conventional vs fifth wheel, etc.

http://trailmanor.com/WebDocs/Campin...FTgrOAodiUvBXw

2001 model year
http://trailmanor.com/WebDocs/Campin...ngPDF/2001.pdf

nickt93, I hauled with a 01 4x4 Sequoia the entire 2010 season. Its a great SUV and you can sleep in the back when at the track. The rear third row seats make great track couch and the middle row folds forward.

Thanks for the feedback - it's looking like the Sequoia is my top choice at this point. Why'd you get rid of it? Did you upgrade to something bigger?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327603785

Sequoia in action

97-99 xj with a 200 dollar rear disc brake conversion. You can pull the guts out of them and they keep coming back for more. Like the Miata, the biggest issue with them is keeping them cool when its 100+ degrees out.

I went and looked at a white 01 Sequoia Limited the other night that looked just like yours; 148k miles, $7k. I intended to buy it, but when I got there the paint was really dull - looked worse than in the pictures so I passed.

Have you been happy with the towing performance of yours? How much does your trailer weigh loaded?

That is just a picture I took of jacob300zx towing with his, he does not have it any more, but I have rode in it/ towed my car with it. It was a damn good ride, towed just fine, was a blast off road, and was comfy as hell. It was like riding in a giant plush couch.

I tow with a 2006 GMC sierra, 5.3 crew cab. I love the truck and all that it provides. And if well taken care of it will last forever, but the gas mileage sucks with it being 4x4. Any wind and towing my dual axle trailor, miata, and all my gear, and im only getting 11 or 12 miles to the gallon. Also they can be expensive up front because everyone in Texas thinks they need 4x4.

That's the extact same ride as I have now - which WON'T cut it for hauling the 24' enclosed hauler. It struggles with hills towing the miata on my open tandem - total about 4500lbs. I'm looking to upgrade/downgrade to either an 06 GMC 2500 with the duramax, or an older Excursion with the 7.3 - either way I'll be stuck paying for diesel, but at least I'll have the torque to move the thing.

Maybe I need to sell mine in TX! KBB says worth about 15k - have 144k on the odo.

I used my parents' 5.3 Suburban to tow my Miata on an open trailer a few times and it didn't have any trouble with it.

My Duramax doesn't have any trouble with it either, though ;)

You can't tow a dirt bike safely unless you have a rig of this size (preferably larger)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327647068

awd ml320 =]

Yea, mine is not the best tow rig, but with my setup it works for now. I would love to have a diesel but again, there seams to be a Texas up charge. Also its would be my daily, and that would kill my fuel costs. My close friend sold his 2006 GMC, crew cab, SLT, with 145k mile on it, with a 6" lift and 35" tires for 18k here in town. It was far from the nicest truck, in "good" shape at best. But bro tucks sell like hot cakes here

I want to go the other way...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327673541

(MT.net member Saboteur)

Pussies!

http://hooniverse.com/blog/wp-conten...towing-car.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327764159

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327764831

http://www.roadcarvin.com/sites/defa...etriever-2.jpg

I wonder how much heavier a Volvo 940 is than a Miata? It looks like you only need something as big as another Volvo to tow it. Therefore, even a lowly Volvo will tow a Miata, right?

http://www.threefattigers.com/Projec...P940-4037b.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327765237

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327765237

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327765526

http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/...n_1732444c.jpg

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/atta...aravan-zzz.jpg

It's not a TX Diesel tax, it's a US Diesel tax. Diesel has a premium on resale for a reason.

I think only this will do:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1327792724

When I was in the UK in August I saw a lot of vehicles we would consider grossly insufficient towing campers. But, the UK has no mountains, so they can get away with it.

I'm not going to read back through 6 pages to see if this has been posted but if not, it's a classic... :jerkit:

:bowdown:

This is what I use and I tow it with a 98 Dodge Grand caravan with a 3.8L motor, not the smaller 3.3's and 3.6's. I live in Wash. and tow down to Thunderhill and Laguna Seca alot and have to go over the Siskiyou's and have no issues, don't hardly even know its back there. The reason behind it was the price of gas is going to just get worse. All the V-8's well kill you on gas towing a trailer, somewhere around 9 mpg, even the GM and Ford v-6's won't do much better towing as they get around 18 hiway and 14 in town normally with no trailer. My van gets 22 to 24 hiway and 19 around town and if I keep it around 60 to 65 when towing it gets around 16.5 to 17 mpg. I had a double axle dovetail car trailer and sold it shortly after buying it as the gas milage was expensive towing that far alot.
Whats cool about this car dolly is it uses Rino Ramps to load with. You can't use a normal dolly with the built in ramps as they won't clear a miata's undercarriage that is lower then stock as they hang out to far. This also has surge disc brakes so you don't need a controller under the dash, same thing U-Haul and Penske uses on their car trailers, plus the disc. brakes over elect. drum brakes. After trailering for 40 years, I well never go back unless gas gets cheap again, which ain't go'na happen. John

http://cartowdolly.com/

Here is what I use to tow.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328129662

Better yet, here is what my buddy used to tow me when my head gasket blew at 14K
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328129662

Surge brakes are not a positive IMO. They are rough and jerky around town, and I had a sticky set on a 12,000lb forklift trailer try to push my 3/4 ton truck clear through an intersection once. Electric brakes are significantly smoother and far easier to maintain.

No kidding. Electric brakes work so much more predictably, can be adjusted in cab, and can be applied in cab without applying tow vehicle brakes (to stop sway).

Rental trailers have surge brakes because usually those renting them typically do not have brake controllers in their tow vehicle. Some will not allow the trailer to be pushed in reverse unless disabled. Pain.

Have never had any of those issues you guys seem to have had. I've had both types and been towing race veh. of one kind or the other for 40 plus years. Maybe the disc. brakes work better then drum as far as staying adjusted and applying even and consistent braking. As for backing up there is a pin that hangs by the slot where the tonque slides and you stick it in and keeps the brakes from being applied when you want to back up, takes a few seconds.