Even a V6 (4.0L preferred) ranger would meet your requirements. Any of the midsize V6 trucks will do. You could also get the large list of SUVs that max out at 5k towing capacity and be fine.

I have a 2010 Tacoma which I used to tow my 2,000lb 7x16 closed Pace American with Miata and tools. I went for the full doublecab to be a true DD. Do get a trailer with electric brakes. The Tekonsha PRODIGY P2 Brake Controller - Proportional plugs right into the harness on the Tacoma if you get the tow package. I use the equalizer hitch when pulling the Miata in the Pace American with ease.

I use an adjustable rapid hitch for all other towing duty including some open trailer towing. I just keep the 2 5/16", 2", 1 5/8" balls in the truck and can adjust to whatever I am towing at that point so it just stays on the truck. I would not spend the money on an aluminum trailer or anything fancy, no reason.

Lot's of people will tell you to go full size. That argument has its merits. My 2010 Tacoma DoubleCab with 6' bed is still longer and bigger than a full size was just a few years ago while the current 1/2 ton with the same options is taller, longer, wider and heavier still. A Tundra or other full size with simple options is close to a Tacoma in price while upping the towing capacity significantly but I would not personally choose that for a DD.

I second the prodigy.

I have towed my 1500# trailer with 2400# Miata for 3 years with 05 Nissan 4.0 liter automatic Kingcab [185K miles] without incident; longest trip San Antonio to Knoxville. Up graded this year to new 4.0 liter automatic Tacoma PreRunner; towed to north Ala this past w/e with no issues. Living in East Tennessee, we have mountains to transverse in every direction, so all tows include that.

Pictures and details of your trailer?

I've really been thinking about one of these to house the car in.

7x12 Enclosed Cargo Trailer Tandem Double Dual Axle Motorcycle Landscape | eBay

You can actually get a much cheaper than $3000 used open aluminum trailer if you have time to search because a friend of ours just sold his Aluminum trailer he was using for his Miata for $1600 (a bargain yes but he just wanted it gone since he bought a replacement already and didn't want to pay $100 a month storage)

Thanks for the input gents.

I'm going back to my original plan of 1/2-ton, gas truck. I'll still be able to get a relatively low mileage and loaded truck for my budget, and the wife wants a bigger truck for the extra room for our roadtrips and such.

So at least I won't have to search for an AL trailer!

Chris, I may know about that super deal. He didn't happen to sell to a guy named Sid did he?

Good luck OP, I think in the end you save money and get a little more capability.

I didn't ask whom he sold it to but it was sold in Houston after he drove back from Chicago (it got his Miata down to Houston anyway)

Honestly, I would rather spend the money on the tow vehicle than the trailer...

Its hard to find a decent steel/wood tailer for less than $1500 here (you find a lot of questionable home built trailers at that price range).

Same here, except substitute 2000 for 1500.

Tow rig is big though. The newest generation of trucks are just so much better than the older generations. My 09 F150 with the 4.6 3 valve and 6 speed auto tranny pulls better than the 97 f250SD XLT with the big block and 4 speed auto tranny, even though the big block has another 100ftlbs of torque, the 6 speed gives me a gear for every situation and the 4.6 doesnt mind reving out at all. Its also a billion times more comfortable, you'd get fatigued just sitting in the passenger seat of the f250, the f150 feels like riding in a very tall sedan. The shocks are way better, the rack and pinion steering needs way less baby sitting on the highway than the pinion arm and steering box, and the fuel mileage is better. Towing the miata on a 2000lb uhaul open trailer with the wing on it was netting high 15's for mpg with the f150, I'm sure it would be in the 16's if I took the wing off. We were in the 12-14 mpg range with the big block.

Still trying to find a decent trailer locally, but with all the prices I'm seeing I might as well just pay a hundred dollars more and buy a brand new one.

^I thought the last two gen V8s were 5.4 for the trucks until the 5.0 in '11?

Do they have the spark plug issues I've read about? I may also throw Chevy's into the mix now as well.

The newer 5.4's dont have that issue like 08+. For the F150, the new chassis started in 09 with the 08 engines, except the 3 valve 4.6 gets the 6 speed tranny (other options were 2 valve 4.6 and 3 valve 5.4, both with 4 speed auto) and then in 11 they switched to the 5.0, 6.2, and ecobooooooooooost. Only real downside I've found with the truck so far is that the injectors sometimes tick rather loudly, and it has the stupid ford power steering pump whine. You would think that after like 30 years of having this fucking whine in every fucking power steering pump they've made (except for the vans) that they would have fucking fixed it by now.

Damn, I didn't realize there was 3 different V8 options for those years.

I'm going to try to hold out until next fall and hope the 2015 F150 that are getting a redesign, major weight loss and supposedly a big mpg jump will drive down the price of the '11-'12 5.0 F150s.

Yeah, a lot of the MPG gains on the newer trucks probably wont translate to towing, especially if you're going to be pulling an enclosed. It is funny looking at people talking about towing enclosed trailers they all get ~10mpg whether its a 70's 454 carbureted chevy or a 2012 dodge hemi or anything in between.

I'd still rather have the ecoboost v6 for towing than the 5.0, !the same gas mileage while towing but way better mileage when unloaded. And MOAR torque.

No way, my van and every econoline van I have driven still have that god damn power steering whine.

At first, I was thinking I was going to fix it...but now I have just accepted my Van's soundtrack of creeks, squeeks, and whines.

Hmmm, because the whine fix for the older ford trucks was to use the saginsaw style pump out of the econoline. I dont know if it fits the newer trucks, no info exists on the internet about it.

The latest Ford trucks ('11+) use electric power steering for the 3.7, 5.0 & Eco. The 6.2 still has the fluid based power steering.

mine is 1997 e150 btw, just for reference. I did read about some possible fixes for it, but I am not sure its really worth it.

And that's fine, I figure realistically I'll only tow 6-7 times a year. And not an enclosed.

So theoretically the EcoBoost is the better choice, but I'm dubious about their longterm durability given all the Intercooler/stalling problems. And that's ignoring the MASSIVE amount of heat (from always being in boost while towing) that is likely to cook all the wiring/hoses underneath the hood.

It is the funniest thing to me. Diesel and Gas have been converging and will continue with that trend due to emissions. Ask people what the best engine possible is and the answer is turbo diesel. Then create a gas engine with turbo diesel properties and everyone is worried about the fancy turbo solution.

IIRC the car is 13'. My 7x16 has enough room to pull in (side mirrors must be pushed in) with enough room for a tool chest up front, a walking path in front and a walking path behind where I put my ezup. I don't think a 7x12 would work and a 7x14 might be asking for punishment. 360 Degree Rotating Recessed Pan Fitting Tie Down Ring are a nice addition.

Ecoboost stalling is only in certain conditions. Of which I have never met. Really worried, there are a couple aftermarket solutions that prevent issue. I bent one of the tubes getting my bumper off after an "opps". I'll eventually be swapping the factory intercooler out with a Full-Race one eventually because of it. Doesn't leak but now I have a decent excuses.

It is hard to hear but I dont think the engine was in high boost while towing the travel trailer (except a few instances). If you never give it lots of throttle, you can't exactly get a bunch of boost. No datalog but my foot isnt buried while towing.

I was doing some research on the EcoBoost V6's a few months ago and for the most part people seem very pleased with them. They are reaching the advertized fuel economy numbers with normal (not hyper mileing) style driving and no complaints of lost of towing capacity. Given I drive my '97 F150 just about every day, the bump in MPG would be a great bonus to having a new truck.

They provided a fix Oct '12 for the intercooler issue. So far no problems with my '13. The weekday mileage isn't too much worse than my MS3 was and I can always get home from the track. (or go fetch parts while at the track).

I've been noticing this too and think it's pretty funny. As evidenced by this forum, a turbo gas motor should do just fine for towing if it's set up well and does a good job of managing heat.

I know this will result in many :diaf: responses, but I've been having bad dreams of a 2001+ 4cyl 5sp ford ranger with homebrew turbo as a DD/tow rig. The 4cyl in those is just a 2.3l Mazda MZR. I started looking at them out of curiosity the other day and realized that brakes/drivetrain/suspension is basically identical on all the Rangers... the engine is the only thing that drops tow rating from ~6000lb to ~1500lb.

I should turbocharge my Tundra. No wait, it already makes plenty of power to tow a Miata.

I purchased a new, dual axle [no brakes] 7'x16' steel/wood trailer for less than $2000 from a company on the WV-OH. I will not post the company's name here for fear of being cited for advertising [even thought I have no relationship with the company]

here is a link to a photo: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

Yes, you bought it new. I bought a 7x16' wood/steel single axle brake trailer for sub $2000 here. I am just saying some of these used prices listed here (ie a good aluminum trailer for $1600 or a steel one for <$1000) are probably region specific or don't exit (my cousin's ex-boyfriend's ex-girlfriend's step-mother's dog...). the difference between a used trailer and a new trailer is just not worth it in the end, unless you can get one of these magical deals.

And the improvement from a steel trailer to an aluminum trailer is probably not worth it for someone on a budget. The way I looked at it is I could spend 2x (approx. $2500) on an aluminum trailer and save maybe 400-600 lbs total (if even that) or I can spend $2500 on a tow vehicle thats in better shape. The difference between a 8k truck and a 6k truck (locally) is significant. I am talking about years newer, mileage less, and one step up in engine. Any one of those will get you better towing capacity for the most part.

I just got lucky and found a low mileage v8 conversion van. My only complaint is the creaking and the horribly murky steering. It stops great, and I can easily maintain whatever speed I want within reason.

No-brakes = no go up here. Must have brakes on both axles to be legal to register. And I wouldn't want to trailer otherwise.

As for weight (not a concern for a 1/2 ton), a 16' wood/steel trailer is approx 2100lbs vs say 1240 for an Aluma brand.

Not always. I keep seeing some of the steel trailers in the 1400 pound range, like econoline. And If you drop the big money on the bolt together trailex those are like 900. But the welded trailex are like 1600 for aluminum. It really is all over the place and annoying. :vash:

Sorry I should have included I was comparing a steel wood Bri-Mar. Both trailers I mentioned have dual 3500lb axles with electric brakes.

Still, I dont understand it. My roomate's steel and wood trailer is 12xx pounds. But is from the early 90's and has 3500lb axles and brakes on both. The lightest steel trailers I can find are the all steel, open deck econoline trailers (14xx), carmate for almost the identical looking trailer is (18xx), big tex is like (20xx). And if you took the labels off you'd swear they were the exact same trailer.

Different wall thickness for the steel. I just started messing around in CAD designing a lightweight miata-sized single axle trailer, and changing from 4x2x.188" steel tube to 4x2x.25" adds almost 250lb. For a heavy duty trailer with a lot of tubes like the big tex, that could easily become a 500+lb difference.

Anecdotal on towing with a turbo but I pulled a 6' enclosed with my MSM for two seasons. The first year I was pulling at ~65 in 6th gear and getting mid/high teens for MPG. Watching the boost and AFR, I was always tipping into boost and dumping fuel. At some point I tried pulling in 5th at the same ~65mph which increased the revs (3.63 gears) but dropped the MAP by 8 or 10 inhg and brought the AFR back to reasonable levels. I got ~24 towing at that point which is within 5 or 6 mpg the car got at ~70 cruising without the trailer.

I don't know shit about the Ecoboost but it stands to reason you could get significantly different mileage towing with a gas turbo based on gear and cruising RPM selection. Put in a boost gauge at least and consider a wideband and see for yourself. :dealwithit:

Does anyone have any input on the 07-10 Chevy 1500s? I'd prefer a new-gen Ford, but the less I spend on a tow vehicle/DD the bigger my track budget.

I'm weary after my buddy had a massive problem with the cylinder shutdown technology. The solenoid started puking oil everywhere and running rough. Essentially when the system goes, a new oil pan/pickup/pushrods/etc all have to be replaced, basically rebuild the engine.

His mechanic seemed to intimate that it wasn't an uncommon problem, the quoted fix was $6k. They did some hackjob fix for super cheap so he could trade it in the next day.

After searching for a 5.3 Z71 for awhile, I found a 08 RCSB Hemi with 50k miles for 14k. After 10k miles, I've had zero issues and its towed a few 4-7k trailers. It gets 15mpg in town and 20-21 on the highway with DOD turned off and OEM 20's.

anyones thoughts on an 04 f350 with 6.0 powerstroke?
has 210,000 miles on it (350k)

6.0? Does it have an aftermarket oil cooler and EGR delete? Budget that in and also injector seals were an issue on those to iirc. Also remember, it wont be terribly comfortable.

I'd buy a 7.3 truck or go with a 03-04 cummins.

Does the 6.0 also have the head stud issue?

We had 6.0 engines in three of our field mechanics' trucks and had the engines apart for major things 5 times. The company hasn't bought Fords since then.

I am casually looking for a Ford E-350 van with diesel. 2002 is the newest I will go, because I will not touch a 6.0 with a 10 foot pole. The 7.3L is where it is at in the ford world.

And because I love punishment, I have a new "small" contender that I need to go check out in person.

2006-2009 Toyota 4Runner. The Sports have big 4pot front brakes and a V8, I can get a nice one for a very reasonable price.

Punishment? Every time I see a discussion about racecar towing, the two most common recommendations seem to be V8 4runner or 'murrican 3500 diesel. I've heard almost nothing bad about that gen 4runner, other than that they hold their value too well. I know the V8 models have beefier hitch mounting points built in from the factory.

The most common Toyota V8 problem started with the VVT motors. The Secondary Air Injectors for the emissions equipment goes out around 100k ish. Fairly easy to replace yourself for a couple of hundred dollars. If you like the V8 4Runners have a look at the Lexus GX470's.

Thanks for the info gents.

The Tacomas and 4runners can be caliper swapped without any bracketry, just the calipers, to the larger Tundra '00-02 or even bigger '03-07 calipers. This also significantly increases pad surface area.

Some of you guys are overthinking this.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1384435723

Usually the issue is a legal one. I could add a supercharger to my Tacoma to make it more capable. It increases the tow rating by 0lbs. With my enclosed 7x16, accessories, people and Miata I am near the limit. While it tows well with my setup, if someone hits me and I am overweight I can be at risk.

On the trailer issue, I purchased a 2005 Pace American 7x16 closed trailer with insulation, lighting, electrical, mounts, electric brakes, a/c setup, etc used for $3400 in 2009. I priced out a decked new one with the same options and it came out closer to $8000 - 10000 from the various factories in Georgia new.

Looking for a Van myself.

2015 Ford Transit with Ecoboost V6 has my interest.
Ford - Cars, SUVs, Trucks & Crossovers | Ford Vehicles | The Official Site of Ford Vehicles | Ford.com

Dodge replacement for the Sprinter is small displacement front wheel drive. Makes a really big box inside but Max towing capacity 5100lbs. Doubt towing an enclosed car trailer should I get one would be any fun.
2014 Ram ProMaster? - Custom Capability & Fuel Efficiency

Nissan big horrible fuel economy V8 or poor fuel economy V6 in a cheap package. Tall bed because it is basically a stupid useless vehicle pickup truck chassis rather than a modern unibody.
Nissan NV Cargo Lineup | 2013 NV2500 & NV3500 Work Vans

Oh reary?

The full size Transit is also supposed to have an I5 timbo diesel. That one looks really interesting.

Too bad new stuff costs so much when you can pick up $6k E150 conversions all day off of CL.

e: something like this would be fantastic for the proper Transit, but expensive: http://jalopnik.com/this-ingeniously...n-a-1226576270

That's where you have to determine whether its worth having a pedo van that might leave you on the side of the road that you have to hide from your neighborhood, or cash out a bit of your stocks (or a sweet 0% interest car loan) while the wife isn't looking and get something reliable.

I dont see where the option to buy an 80's van came into this. You can get like 2010 model v8 1500 chassis vans for like 6 grand.

Because all vans are rape vans?