Dodge 12v diesel. I'd go for something in 95-98.5 but older ones are good too. Reliable all mechanical no electric bullshit. Just get a 5spd. I got my 98 quad cab 4x4 short bed 5spd 12v for $8700. Stole it should be in the 12-16k range.

Best part is mods are basically free turn some screws you have another few hundred hp and pounds of tq. You are seeing everyone swap the 12v in the newer trucks espcs fords. Its know as the million mile motor!

Mpg is great to I get 20mpg with a 4x4 and only a K&N filter. Theres guys getting 23 with a 4x4 and high 20s with a 2wd. Check out the new diesel power mag they built a 800ish whp/tq dodge that got 27mpg.

So OP needs an 8500# truck to pull a 2200# car and 1000# trailer?

12v:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328492871
V12:
http://www.abload.de/img/italy183db01.jpg

Big difference.

I think he meant 12 valve.

Probably not, but towing a 4000lb (1800lb trailer + 2200lb car) tandem-axle flatbed with a 4000lb V6 SUV-ette on a regular basis would suck ass.

I maintain that the smallest thing I would own specifically for towing a car trailer would be a half-ton pickup. F150 Ecoboost = capitalist victory

12valve:Attachment 186070

12v 6-cylinder diesel, 6.0L...
This thing sounds ------- ancient.

+1 car dolly if gas milage is an issue.

Now I have 2 FI vehicles to worry about! Picking her up friday...
2001 Excursion Limited, 7.3L (of course) 190k on the odo, 2wd - VERY clean inside and out (I love southern vehicles), has the programmable superchip installed, bla bla bla... tow-tuned at 350rwhp/600ftlbs :drool: -$8900 (selling the '06 GMC, after paying the loan off on it, I'll be debt-free car payment wise)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1329362623
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1329362759
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1329362759

Now THAT is a tow rig!

Should have no problem at all pulling the new enclosed trailer.

Sweet. Run it on biodiesel and tell the Prius owners how you have a lower carbon footprint than they do.

I tow a 2500lb Miata in a 2000lb enclosed trailer (read: mobile air brake) with gear, people, tools, etc in a 2010 Tacoma 4x4 V6 Long Bed on a regular basis. It pulls no problem and has a better power to GCWR than older fullsize trucks (as nearly all modern vehicles do after the recent horsepower explosion in the 2000s). A nice brake controller that just plugs into the stock harness and an equalizer hitch make it super easy.

I will likely go with the F150 ecoboost for the 8x20 trailer in the future as I will go over the Tacoma GCWR.

I am continuously amazed at US tow ratings. I go to Germany and see your average german wagon pulling full size campers, look at the tow ratings and realize that our tow recommendations are a mix of massive american overkill and badly needed tort reform.

For the OP, I vote midsize truck with a tent (you can get one for most trucks that fit in the bed). This way you can still put fuel in the bed and carry nasty stuff and just throw stuff in the bed when/if you need to. 4x4 is only useful for pulling into wet, muddy lots at some track infields. WD hitch should not be necessary, brake controller and full brakes are highly recommended.

Youre probably already there. If youre not over your GCWR, I would be really surprised. If you havent weighed the truck and trailer, loaded as youre towing it, you probably should. Its eye opening. You should probably check your GAWR, because thats the one that really sneaks up on people (and the one most people dont bother to check).

Words cannot describe the awesomeness of this tow vehicle. Pull up to an event in this bad boy, and your opponents will know the ashen taste of fear in their mouths. Or is that the oil you're burning?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1329516349

I checked last season. Well under GCWR. Would be over GAWR fully loaded with people IF I didn't have my equalizer WD hitch. Which I do.

Mine is the extreme case of towing with a mid-size and the OP would have a lot more headroom with an open, lighter trailer and lighter car. If I went from a 7x16 2000lb dual axle trailer to the 8x20 ~3200lb dual axle trailer that I want (which I would stuff a LOT more gear in), I would go over both GCWR and GAWR.

So, at the moment, it gets the job done and I don't need a monster truck in my garage or a second vehicle as the tow vehicle is also the dd. WD hitch and a great brake controller are mandatory however.

1993 Land Cruiser with locking diffs. Rated to tow 5k. Should be perfect for my 3k Miata/trailer combo.

Solid rust free example with upgraded 4.88 diff gears. Motor & Trans refreshed by dealer. Full axle service and suspension upgrade by PO.

Fails SMOG so I paid $2,500. I have a friend who knows these inside and out. He says the problem is minor.

After my trip to Moab last year in said friends Land Cruiser I have been looking for one of these. With his 4.88 gears and locking diffs there was very little we could not climb.

I took my rig to MRLS from Seattle which is around 1,000 miles each way. As I think was mentioned earlier in the thread, I'm pulling a $700 tandem axle with a $1,200 '91 F150 with a 300/6. Before I left, I did basic maintenance to the truck and did the rear brakes ($30/pair shoes, $10/side wheel cylinders, $6 adjustor kits). I got at average of 14.7 mpg down and back on 87 gas. The drive includes a trio of fairly respectable mountain passes. A flat foot run from the base of one mountain to the peak of a second got me down to 11.6 mpg (dual tanks let's me track mileage very specifically). I got a high of 15.9 mpg on a long flat section which is one or two mpg less than I get driving around town.

Moral of the story: You can put together a pretty functional tow package on a modest budget and put the bigger bucks on the track.

K24- just remember, the more gear the axle has, the weaker it gets. That's why I'm still on stock gears with the XJ

In theory yes. After seeing what my friend Rick did with his FZJ80 at Moab using the same gears I am not concerned. It's a popular mod with the FZJ80 crowd. I have not read about anyone having problems on the IH8MUD forums. They do however suffer from stripped front hubs on the early style axles. Mine are the upgraded late style.

I now have a tow vehicle. A 97 F150. Maintenance wise it needs a new radiator and AC compressor. Other then that it runs great. The to do list after that will be a transmission cooler, larger transmission pan and installing a tow hitch and brake controller. Then I should be set to tow the miata around for the next few years.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1335916340

4.2? It might struggle a bit on the top end with a real sized car, but it should be fine with the Miata. Nice buy!

4.6L V8. While not the most powerful truck it should work well for the next few years until I save up to buy a nice diesel rape van.

go to the junkard, find wrecked 05+ mustang gt. swap the motors(with ecu), more power when you need it and better fuel economy. we had a record 28mpg in an 06 gt, beastmode.

:ky: Towing like bauce

Here's my cheap solution until I too can save up to buy a nice diesel rape van.

ADMIN EDIT: THIS PICTURE WAS ON A SECURE SERVER THAT REQUIRES A LOGIN, BRO.

Nice. So practical. :(

Congrats Shueind on the new TV

I use a 08 Tourag V8 with Air suspension. She has a rating of 8000lbs and pulls like a beast. Yanked the RX7 down to the shop to get a new clutch without issue. The full air ride makes it so nice auto leveling and making for a comfortable ride. I decided on the Treg after seeing so many Porsche TV's at the track. I didn't want to pay Porsche money and went with the Treg instead. Only complaint is I have to make my own Brake Controller adapter for my Tekonsha.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...%2520Share.png

https://encrypted-tbn0.google.com/im...QlhomtMRQiTMgw
24' Haulmark Race. Nice trailer has integrated quartz lights, a/c, hidden beavertail, power landing gear, etc. Original owner was an antiques dealer and used it to haul his merchandise to auction houses and what not. It currently has some pretty fancy carpet on the floor.

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/130...0609200252.jpg

I'll trade you. See... aren't you glad you didn't get the one I bought? Yours is much nicer (and proably 3-4x what mine cost).

Jealous, I just towed the miata to my first and last race with a Uhaul. My FM rails were 1/8" away from both sides of the runways and I had to get a big angle to get on. We had some sheet metal underneath get scratched getting it on.

Didn't trailer it home as my buddy wrecked his STI and needed the trailer.

I really want a Trailex open, but DAMN Son they are pricey!

Yours was such a steal, but I am glad that I didn't have to take on that project. I have enough projects. Enclosed trailers are cheap in GA--they make them all here.

It's the classic series trailer (same as yours I believe), not the pro series. I got it used and it don't have the aluminum walls and cabinets, nor does it have the generator, so it was *not* 3-4x yours. I do have aluminum wheels, a/c, 50 amp electrical service, 2 overhead 115v florescent lights, 5 overhead 12v lights with switches front and rear, and the exterior 115v quartz lights. It has e-track down the walls inside and a couple of shelving units. It has power landing gear which is nifty, but I don't like how its position does not allow my tailgate to open.

It needs the hatch covers replaced, and the a/c controls are hanging a bit crooked. I wanted to check into that today, but it takes a security bit that I'll need to purchase. The 12v overhead lights didn't work off the battery, but that was a fuse. It needs 1 tire badly. I'm thinking I'll keep the carpet and just cut it out around the d-rings.

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/5824/pict0362i.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8113/pict0360f.jpg

Im lucky. My step-dad has a truck and car trailer from his drag racing days. He sold his drag car to start up a shop, so now he doesnt have a use for the truck/trailer anymore. Thats where I step in. I now have a full shop at my disposal and unlimited use of the truck trailer (i pay for insurance).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1339388158

So - instead of starting a Diesel Thread - I thought better to necro something relevant...

My TOW vehicle (7.3 Excursion) recently had a churbo upgrade along with some stage 1 injectors (still needs pump upgrade). And after the orignal turbo was yanked out, we discovered why I couldn't get 30# out of it -

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1354159300
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1354159300

Now, I never noticed a sudden change in performaance, so this wheel might have been this way for a while - before I got the beast. The turbo upgrade was to help satisfy my lust for more power - not because of this.

So my real question is; on sustained loads, what's too hot? I have seen 1000-1100F sustained on long steep hills. Red light Chevy stomps, I can see 1300 briefly. My Pyrometer is at collector from the driver's manifold.

From the looks of your vanes I would say you or the previous owner have had this thing overly hot on the EGT's. 1300F is about the safe line on most diesels. Read this whole article and it should answer all your questions from one of the premier names. http://www.bankspower.com/techarticl...t-is-important

Awesome article - thanks John :)

The trailer dealers in my area don't know California laws for brakes on trailers, so I wanted to pass along some information. 1500 max before brakes are required not 3500 lb. or two axles.
per DMV web site
Trailer Brakes

In California, brakes are required on any trailer coach or camp trailer having a gross weight of 1500 lbs. or more. Usually the braking capacity on tow vehicles is good; however, it may not be good enough to safely stop the several hundred to several thousand additional pounds that your trailer weighs.
Towing Your Trailer Safely

I know this guy really well that towed his farm/trash/construction/concrete rubble/race car trailer for 20 plus years with no trailer brakes hooked up. It is a double axle trailer that tows well but caused problems with his 2001 Tundra brake front rotors warping after going back and forth over the Grapevine (big hill on I 5) Finally he put in the brake controller and wired in his existing electric brakes and now lives happily ever after. Tundra is a V8 4x4. sometimes stupid people are lucky for a long time (me)

someone buy this.
Kenworth T2000 - 53' Featherlite Trailer Car Hauler

T-2000 KENWORTH TRACTOR & 53' FEATHERLITE TRAILER
$189000 (Costa Mesa)

- T-2000 - With almost every option possible.
- 129,905 MilesFuller 18 speed transmission
- Fuel Tanks (2) 150 gallon tanks
- 53' Aluminum Featherlite Trailer - Car Transporter - Exhibit Trailer
- 2 Deck interior with adjustable top deck
- 7500 lbs Full sized lift gate for cars
- Internal roll up rear door.
- 48" Swing out side doors on both sides of trailerTriple axle, straight axle - 1-dump valve for each axel and 1-valve to over raise trailer, arm and emergency spring brake.
- Tires 275/70R 22.5
- Brakes 16.5" x 7" full air


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1354518457
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1354518457
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1354518457

I'd write a check today but it won't fit in my driveway.


:giggle: :jerkit:

So, since I fit an NB in a 7x16 enclosed trailer, how many Miata's will fit in this?

My work in process tow vehicle: 8.3 Cummins with only 147,000 miles on it. Gets 10mpg and rated to 50,000lbs combined. Replacment bumpers front and rear aren't completed yet, but about 90% there. They will need to be powder coated soon. Diesel 8000watt generator on board. I love how cheap you can get school buses.

Do you have to have a CDL or any additional licensing to drive a school bus?

The title is changed from bus to motor home, so anyone can drive it with absolutely no training. When I drove it home, I should have had a CDL-B with a P endorsement since it was still a bus. Once I filed the correct paperwork, it is now legal for me to drive. Makes sense right? Oh and it weighs 23,000 lbs.

The check or the tow rig?:dunno:

:bowrofl:

I believe if it is for personal use then no you do not. At least in VA you did not. I had actually looked into buying a bus about 6-7 years ago. Not for towing, just because it was cheap and would have been fun.

I can't speak for outside of Texas, but you have to change it to a motor home on it's title or you have to have a CDL-B with Passenger endorsement to drive it. To change it over to a motor home there was a list of things that needs to be done that seems to be pretty universal in most states:

Must be a self-propelled vehicle and must have at least four of the following facilities:

1) A cooking appliance with on-board power source.
2) A Gas or electric refrigerator.
3) A toilet with exterior evacuation.
4) Heating or air conditioner or both from an on-board power source separate from the vehicle engine.
5) A potable water supply system.
6) A 110-125 volt power supply separate from the vehicle engine.
7) A bed or sleeping area.

Bring the following to the DMV:
Liability Insurance
Bus Title
Certified weight from CAT type scale
Pictures inside and out to show meeting the above requirements
"Green Sheet" inspection form

This is for TX, but the requirements are pretty universal.

Damn, I might grab a van as well...would also work well for Karts.

So reading through this and the other tow threads on the board, here is my plan and situation, please feel free to denigrate me accordingly. Due to space constraints at my house, there is no room for a cheap DD + old cheap tow rig + racecar + trailer. So the tow rig also needs to be my DD.

I'm about 30 miles east of Hallett...in OK. I suspect any time into the foreseeable future I will likely only be towing to tracks in the NASA TX and NASA Central regions, so no mountains or anything.

Plan is to pickup a newish Tacoma (factory tow package has an oil and trans cooler), pull the car on a 14-16' aluminum trailer with electric brakes. Add Firestone airbags and a weight distribution hitch.

I figure the car and trailer will be in the 3300-3400lb range, even if you added another 1000lb in gear/tires/tools/spares........I'm still 2000 under the 6500 towing capacity.

I really don't want to drive a full-size truck on a daily basis, and I'll realistically tow 7-8 times a year......10 max.

I don't believe you need a WD Hitch if you are putting helper bags in the rear. I know, at least in my Touareg, that I'm not supposed to use a WD with my air suspension.

Antisway bars are still good for short wheel bases, depending on which Truck you get. However, finding just an antisway and not Antisway + WD is tricky. You may be better off forgoing the air bags all together and just use WD+Antisway. If you are going with an aluminum open 4 wheel trailer, I doubt you will have a lot of weight on the tongue.

not a bad idea really. Not sure you really need the weight distribution hitch, at least if I was on a budget that's probably where I would save money. Although the aluminum trailers are usually really expensive.

^I'm OK with spending 2x on a trailer so I'm not saddled with a full-size truck on a daily basis.

I realize I won't be able to tow 80 down the interstate like my buddies with crew cab diesels do, but I'm not that concerned since most of the tracks I'll visit are within 350 miles of my house.


Thanks for the note on airbags vs WD......I'll look into that more.

A Tacoma should be able to pull an open trailer steel or aluminum without any problem. AL trailers aren't twice as much. You can pick up a used Steelie for $1000. The cheapest I see AL go for are $3k used. I doubt you'll even need a WD hitch pulling your miata unless you load up the tongue with a box full of tools and shit or weigh down the bed with a lot.

EDIT: Assumption is we are talking the newer v6 tacomas.
EDIT2: Don't be jealous of your friends towing at 80. That's irresponsible and negligent. I don't care how many people post they do it all the time. If equipment failure or other emergency maneuver situation arises, they will be rolling their rig.

Adam

^Yes, I'll likely bite the bullet and just buy a 2014 if I can get a decent deal on one.

I have no interest in doing anything other than fluid and pad changes on a tow vehicle for the next 100k. Dealing with the track car is enough of a PITA.

I do not object to this plan overmuch. I would substitute a Porsche Macan Turbo for the Tacoma, but otherwise it seems quite reasonable.

http://static1.fjcdn.com/thumbnails/...d7e5441c99.jpg

I'd save some money on the trailer and skip the aluminum (note don't get a Big Tex, they are heavy) trailer, steel trailers aren't that much heavier and are much cheaper. The red Uhaul trailers are 22-2300lbs and it towed fantastic behind my Frontier. Little slow off the line but it had no problems with the Missouri Ozark hills and I was never worried about stopping even with the lackluster, unmaintained brakes. I saw 13-14MPG towing from St Louis to Hallett and back, 14MPG from St Louis to Chicago and back. My daily commute nets 20.5MPG pretty consistently as long as I drive it sane.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383759693

The Tacomas are really nice trucks but ridiculously priced, I paid $21.5k for my Frontier with 7k miles. Around here anyway, that would be a 100k+ mile Tacoma.

My only issue with the idea is that used Tacoma's can end up costing more than than a full sized truck. If MPG is your major concern, you might want to look at the payoff time on how far you have to drive before it makes finical sense. Myself I'm looking to sell off my 97 F150 and look into one of the new Ecoboost V6 models..

I actually had a 2011 Pro-4X Frontier for awhile (not sure I'd want to tow with the off-road suspension setup though, thoughts? Would be nice to get some occasional mild wheeling in with my buddies as well). Ended up ditching because we never used it as a truck, now that I'm wanting to get serious with the track car stuff, I wish I'd kept it. I remember my only real complaint was the cheap leather used in the interior.

But you're right, they are much cheaper I should probably just go that route. I think when I bought mine MSRP was $33,500 and I got it for just under $27k new.

In a 112" wheelbase Touareg, yes. In an 8000lb 153" wheelbase 3/4 ton diesel, no. 80mph is safe and even legal in some states - you just need the right tool for the job.

I thought the only suspension difference was the off-road package had Bilsteins? I have the SV with 4x4. Still need to get my own trailer, and somewhere to store it, along with a WD hitch. So far I have no regrets with the mid-size truck but I have thought many times that a turbo would make it quite a bit more fun to drive.

I know with how I would drive a long wheelbase, crew cab SV should be plenty to do what I'm going to do.......but I have this nagging feeling I'm going to regret it.

I upgraded my tow rig a few weeks ago.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383765762