Track brakes
09-24-2012, 02:26 PM
#222
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
For what it's worth, here's what I noticed btwn mine and others at BW 13CW I average about 90-95s at the top of the straights (stock 1.6L + exh), for a 2:21 on all seasons (2:21, more time on table, messed up on sunset before the lap even started). The Street Class Miata is a 1.8L on 225 RS-3s that sees about 105s in the corners for a 2:08. A friend's S2000 hits about 105s in the straights but is obv slower overall with merely 2:14-2:16 (255 advans), and he and I corner at similar speeds in my Miata. I have to scrub speed and brake earlier to hit a slower corner speed which inevitably kills top speed.
I was planning on staying with 1.6L brakes for weight, have 1.8L brackets ready and waiting, and I know they'll have better heat capacity overall, but whether I need it yet or not is TBD on pad and tire (currently Hawk HP+ which have lasted pretty long that I started dailying them). I planned on doing some ducts before slapping the 1.8L rotors on, mainly so I can gauge how effective the ducts are. I know the cooler the brakes are the longer pads will last etc, but so far with all seasons and HP+, it hasn't been an issue. I sure would like some Wilwoods for many reasons but it's just not in the cards. Please let me know if I'm going about this all wrong and that I should toss the 1.8s on ASAP regardless of if I've ducted the brakes yet or not.
I was planning on staying with 1.6L brakes for weight, have 1.8L brackets ready and waiting, and I know they'll have better heat capacity overall, but whether I need it yet or not is TBD on pad and tire (currently Hawk HP+ which have lasted pretty long that I started dailying them). I planned on doing some ducts before slapping the 1.8L rotors on, mainly so I can gauge how effective the ducts are. I know the cooler the brakes are the longer pads will last etc, but so far with all seasons and HP+, it hasn't been an issue. I sure would like some Wilwoods for many reasons but it's just not in the cards. Please let me know if I'm going about this all wrong and that I should toss the 1.8s on ASAP regardless of if I've ducted the brakes yet or not.
Reply
0
0
09-24-2012, 09:08 PM
#223
I should add that that is on old *** Azinis tires too. I will look at ducting for this winter. Is there any benifit to fitting a 4 piston caliper like the Dynalite to the 1.8 rotors? I am sure this has been addressed. I just started looking into brakes again and havn't been paying attention for a while since I thought the Carbotechs would be all I would even need on my NA, NA!
Reply
0
0
09-24-2012, 11:29 PM
#224
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,468
Total Cats: 365
I did 6 track days on my XP8's on the sport brakes, 5 of them boosted at 8psi, and the pads still had lots of life left in them when I upgraded to the TSE BBK. My brakes were ducted for all but the first of those track days. Keeping them cool really extends the life you get out of them. TSE's brake ducts pay for themselves quickly.
Reply
0
0
09-25-2012, 07:05 PM
#225
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 186
Total Cats: 2
"Originally Posted by Savington
If cornering speeds are higher, straightaway speeds will be higher.
Eh, that's debatable. The laps are shorter, but the braking zones are more compacted."
I don't reach as high of speeds, but still have to slow down due to the lower grip levels of tires... which sometimes means being on the pedal early due to the lack of braking grip (or it will lock up).
I'm probably going to try 1.8s up front, will have to figure out temp variances or just ignore it altogether since I can't get solid temperature info here.... and either a prop valve or gut the OEM prop valve to get rid of the knee at higher psi to fix the heavy front bias.
Reply
0
0
09-30-2012, 08:11 AM
#226
Just installed and bedded my XP8s on NAPA rotors. I'm amazed at how hot those things get, I probably did a good 20 medium and hard stops, but I didn't get to do much cool down between the stops, they came up to temp really quick. Looks like they made a good solid material transfer to the rotors.
I did notice that the fronts lock up a bit easier now (may have also been due in part to cold tires), so I'm thinking it might be time for an adjustable prop valve, and with how hot those fronts are getting, ducting is a clear must.
I did notice that the fronts lock up a bit easier now (may have also been due in part to cold tires), so I'm thinking it might be time for an adjustable prop valve, and with how hot those fronts are getting, ducting is a clear must.
Reply
0
0
10-01-2012, 12:50 AM
#227
are any of you guys using the Trackspeed Engineering brake ducts? Seems like my brakes start grinding when i come of track with lots of high-speed straights. Grinding goes away once the brakes cool down. Pads are DTC-60s all the way around with a 94' brake upgrade
Trackspeed Engineering
Trackspeed Engineering
Reply
0
0
10-01-2012, 11:51 AM
#229
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: AZ
Posts: 53
Total Cats: 0
Yep, been using them all this year. Relatively easy install, no issues so far. I swapped pads the month after I put those on, so don't have a back to back comparison, but I'm sure they are helping.
Reply
0
0
10-01-2012, 01:29 PM
#231
I have been doing some research on the 11" rotor swaps using the Mini rotors instead of the Corrado rotors. It appears that the Mini rotors can give you the same benefits as the Corrado 11" without the crappy design that makes the rotor weaker and pulls air from the wrong side. The 11" rotors are pretty cheap, even the 11.5" rotors arn't rediculous.
Has any one pulled off a swap using 11" Mini rotors with the factory caliper? Please hold off the flames, I know Willwood Dynalites are the way to go, I am just way over budget at this time and am only trying to minimize pad taper on a NA car (will add ducting too). If I ever get the turbo on there I would definitely go for the 4 piston calipers.
I have a m-tune corrado bracket set, but also have a mill and can make any other bracket I need. I am also restricted to OEM NB 15" wheels, which make it harder to fit the Wilwoods as well.
Has any one pulled off a swap using 11" Mini rotors with the factory caliper? Please hold off the flames, I know Willwood Dynalites are the way to go, I am just way over budget at this time and am only trying to minimize pad taper on a NA car (will add ducting too). If I ever get the turbo on there I would definitely go for the 4 piston calipers.
I have a m-tune corrado bracket set, but also have a mill and can make any other bracket I need. I am also restricted to OEM NB 15" wheels, which make it harder to fit the Wilwoods as well.
Reply
0
0
10-01-2012, 01:39 PM
#232
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Yea, the entire equation. I was adding my experience to what Savington said:
"Originally Posted by Savington
If cornering speeds are higher, straightaway speeds will be higher.
Eh, that's debatable. The laps are shorter, but the braking zones are more compacted."
I don't reach as high of speeds, but still have to slow down due to the lower grip levels of tires... which sometimes means being on the pedal early due to the lack of braking grip (or it will lock up).
I'm probably going to try 1.8s up front, will have to figure out temp variances or just ignore it altogether since I can't get solid temperature info here.... and either a prop valve or gut the OEM prop valve to get rid of the knee at higher psi to fix the heavy front bias.
"Originally Posted by Savington
If cornering speeds are higher, straightaway speeds will be higher.
Eh, that's debatable. The laps are shorter, but the braking zones are more compacted."
I don't reach as high of speeds, but still have to slow down due to the lower grip levels of tires... which sometimes means being on the pedal early due to the lack of braking grip (or it will lock up).
I'm probably going to try 1.8s up front, will have to figure out temp variances or just ignore it altogether since I can't get solid temperature info here.... and either a prop valve or gut the OEM prop valve to get rid of the knee at higher psi to fix the heavy front bias.
Reply
0
0
10-03-2012, 02:38 AM
#234
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 186
Total Cats: 2
Shut up. I'm tired of reading this **** where "we" give you then answer and then you bitch about it because you don't like it. No one can give you brake temps because we all have different cars, on different tracks, with different brakes, with different pads, and different skill levels. You seem to know more than everyone else, so get the **** out of here and go post in the supercharger threads.
In this thread:
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...s-50278/page2/
The OP mentions 150/100C which is ~300/212F. That 300 I wouldn't see with the Alcon strips nor my IR.
I was looking at temps, to consider why the rears lock up, which is mentioned in that thread. I am hesitant on the prop valve (vs free spring removal) but didn't know the PV was $28. Eventually a larger bore on the rear caliper was the solution, which seems the logical choice, which was never mentioned.
My MPH variance was to agree with Sav, since my example showed an average of 10mph Vmax variation corner speed and straight, RS3 and ZE912s, 2:08 and 2:21, with a 2:14 AP2 time showing RS3 top speeds and ZE912 corner speeds, I thought it was an interesting observation.
I'm on 1.6L brakes... an SC is not even remotely on my to-do list.
Reply
0
0
11-10-2012, 10:20 AM
#235
Junior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Originally from Germany. Now live in SoCal
Posts: 194
Total Cats: -5
I'm probably going to try 1.8s up front, will have to figure out temp variances or just ignore it altogether since I can't get solid temperature info here.... and either a prop valve or gut the OEM prop valve to get rid of the knee at higher psi to fix the heavy front bias.
Reply
0
0
11-10-2012, 10:26 AM
#236
Junior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Originally from Germany. Now live in SoCal
Posts: 194
Total Cats: -5
So I've noticed that no one has said anything about Baer's 12.5in Sport Brakes. 4 pistons and mad rotor size. I don't have any personal experience with them but I was wondering if any of you guys have. The price difference is tremendous but I have a chance of coming up on the BBK from Baer for a little less than $200.
Some questions:
Would they Clear 15x8 6uls?
How is the caliper design itself?
What is the pad Size compared to stock 1.8s?
Some questions:
Would they Clear 15x8 6uls?
How is the caliper design itself?
What is the pad Size compared to stock 1.8s?
Last edited by MR.M!474; 11-10-2012 at 10:49 AM.
Reply
0
0
11-10-2012, 08:21 PM
#239
Junior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Originally from Germany. Now live in SoCal
Posts: 194
Total Cats: -5
I asked him to ship it, he said that he would let me know on thursday. If he agrees i will buy them none the less an answer my own questions and others.
I have read that as well but on Baer's website it says that it DOES in fact fit under SOME 15in wheels. So knowing that 6uls are a good choice for a big brake kit i was wondering if they could handle the Baer brakes....i doubt it though.
Fingers crossed i guess.
Fingers crossed i guess.
Reply
0
0
