Alright guys I know I'm gonna get flamed for this, I've searched. The best thread I've found on track pads was Hustlers from a couple years ago (https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/pad-do-i-want-45220/) Every post I find people are comparing pads from corrado, wilwood and other set-ups and many have a proportioning valve.Help me with my track brake set-up, please.

I've got a '92 with 1.8 brakes front and rear, 225 whp and weighs in at 2540 with me in it. Most track days will be run a CMP which is brake intensive and hot and 20-25 minutes sessions. I've got about 7 track days under my belt and this will be my first season in the miata (first RWD even).Something that will last a season of about 4 track weekends would be great, if possible. Also, how important is an adjustable proportioning valve?

I appreciate any help you can give. If your gonna reply with "been posted a million times" give me links, please.

 

TSE biggest front brakes and M-tuned rear adapters.

 

The 1.8's should be ok until you really get into some legenthy lapping sessions and get confident in pushing your car to the limits. One thing I would recommend would be to bleed your lines and put in some high temp fluid and stainless lines. If you're going to do that and your budget isn't tight you might as well get a Trackspeed Engineering BBK or 949 racing BBK. Both come with the Wilwood calipers and now 2 piece rotors. you might want to upgrade the rears to sport brakes and add that prop valve so the bias is correct or the braking distances might suffer but they will be a lot less likly to fade and overheat. That's the basics, but like I said I would push the 1.8 brakes until you feel like they are a limiting factor for you.

 

I have done CMP several times in my 1.8 '91, but I don't have the turbo on there yet. I have had great luck with Carbotechs on standard 1.8 brakes. Last time I went there were a few MSM, turbo and supercharged miata guys out on the track. The ~200whp guys seemed to have no issues running the corrado fronts and sport rears. I am personally planning on doing a corrado upgrade with the turbo, if it ever goes on the car.

What kind of tire are you running?

 

Our 11.75 front BBK, prop valve kit, and brake duct kit, M-Tuned rear BRK, DTC-60 pads front and rear, and an NB Sport master/booster.

Buy everything except the sport master/booster from us, add a Motive bleeder for flawless 1-man bleeds, and you'll have the best Miata brakes money can buy.

I run this exact setup on Theseus and Rover, and I've never driven a Miata with better brakes.

 

For now, just run DTC-60 pads all the way around or something that can take lots of heat. Save your pennies for the TSE hugest brakes, they enriched my life.

My brakes are up to their sustained temps on the second lap of any session; caliper temps hit their peak on the second lap too. Eventually the wheels stop pulling heat out of the rotor, but you know what's up on the 2nd or third lap. Brakes don't get "hotter" after 10-minutes. Have you ever even been on a racetrack?

The TSE kit will save you money. My $60 pads are lasting ~10 days, the $31 rotors last twice as long. I went an entire season on 1.5 sets of pads and 1 set of rotors. They also probably make wheel bearings last longer because the rotor temps are so much lower.

 

15x9 6UL of Hankook RS3s

I'm thinking just pads for now. So, you think the DTC-60s will get hot enough in the rear?

 

I run CMP, Carbotechs do great there (xp10s). I am sure hawk and other similar level pads will do fine too. At this point the carbotechs last me about 5-7 events.
What tire+wheel combo btw? Thats pretty important in this discussion.

At your whp, I would suggest a step up in the brakes department, you don't want to to heat them up too much at the kink and have no brakes for turn 11!

 

225 RS3s on 9" 6ULs.

The last thing I need to do is loose confidence through the kink!

 

What do you guys think of 'upgrading' my sport rear calipers to regular 1.8 calipers and using the M-Tuned brake carriers? Hawk doesn't make DTC-60 for the sport calipers and still haven't found a good pad for the rear at a similar price.

 

I have them and although they still overheat, the help. I also have some weird fitment problem where the rotors rub like they're out of round, but they work.

 

I haven't confirmed this, but I have been told that the 1.375" Sport caliper fits on the 1.8 bracket, which would allow you to run DTC-60s.

I've spoken with Hawk about having rear pads made for Sport brackets, but the MOQ is a little higher than I would want to swallow for such a low-volume pad.

 

I can tell you that Hawk HP+ w/ 225 RS3s on 9" 6ULs on a ~200whp NA was NOT enough.

I upgraded to xp10 and SS lines and I'm hoping it will work for me. Good luck!

 

I'm a bit confused. Aren't the pad shapes/sizes different between the sport caliper and 1.8 caliper?
Or are you saying to find 1.8 calipers and just bolt them to my current sport brackets? If that is the case, then yes, I have also read that they bolt up.

sport


standard


Is there any reason to keep the sport rear calipers?

 

I think you might be fine? I don't really know the limitation for our brakes, but you certainly should be attentive to the brakes since 225whp is a bit too much for plan old 1.8 brakes.

I would stay out of it (probably limit it to ~105-110mph) on the straight before the kink and front straight if you do overheat though.

 

That's all i've done through the kink anyway cause i'm a big chickenshit. Lol. Still have about 6' of run out left and have yet to stay flat through there. Running right behind an STI as we went through at 105+ and him spinning right in front of me didn't help build confidence either. Haha

 

I think i'll stay with the 1.8 brakes for now and go DTC-60 or XP10s. Same pad front and rear, right? And do you guys rebuild your own calipers or buy parts store replacments?

 

There is a corner that's so scary at HHR and MSR-H that I have to put my left foot over my right to hold my right foot down on the throttle becuase my brain tells my foot that "you should really lift, this is dumb". It's pretty retarded to do this at 120mph+, but this is what makes us men.

 

I like the Hawk's and they're cheaper. If you have 6ULs already, the TSE BBK will save you more money, now. Go ahead and get a bias valve now, it will make a very big difference in the way the car stops and trail brakes.

When it comes to rebuild/replace it comes down to three factors. I will always rebuild a front caliper. If the rear springy park brake part of the rear caliper is messed-up or leaking, I buy a new one. If I'm short on time or feeling lazy, I'll buy a replacement.

 

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