Yea I'd been eyeing the id2000 for my fd. They seem amazing. The lowest rated ID injector is 725cc tho. Isn't that a bit overkill for a fm2 miata? How do the deatschworks 600cc compare?

Oh btw I meant to say. I have a link ecu.

 

The only reason you want a smaller injector is for idle quality, but you can idle an ID1000 at 14.7:1 and 900rpm on a Miata. The 725s are the same price, so there's literally no reason not to use the ID1000s.

 

I have ID1000's on my DD in anticipation of FI and E85. Idles at 14.7, no discernable issues.

 

Okay thanks for the tip! Also the link ecu would be able to control these no problem?

 

In addition to having a better spray pattern, the Bosch/ID injectors have ~40% lower dead times than RX-7 injectors, which makes for more accurate fueling at low pulse widths (idle and low load). That said, I had my RX-7 550s cleaned by DW before installing them, and I have no trouble idling at 15:1 and experience zero stumbling or bucking on track while running either MS2 or MS3. On an ECU with lower fueling resolution you will lose a teensy bit of smoothness but that's about it.

If your 460s are dirty, then obviously, you should get them cleaned. However, if the car idles and drives respectably during part-throttle situations on the street and is stumbling on tip-in at the track, it sounds to me that the issue is likely with the tune rather than the injectors. I have no experience with the Link but I would examine the accel enrichments (however link handles those) and the fuel map at that mid-high rpm and low load region, which is a part of the map that many people don't get thoroughly dialed in with typical street tuning. ID1000s would be nice but at this point you can't be sure that spending that money will solve your issues.

 

Thanks for the tip Scott. I'll definitely get my injectors cleaned. Though, it does cost like 80-90 bux to get them cleaned. Maybe I'm better off putting that towards a set of new injectors.

 

new to the thread and TM forum. Building an 04 msm for the track. would you clarify a few items covered in this thread for me?

The motor configuration is a 2000 nb longblock, a garrett gt2860rs/BEGI cast manifold/BEGI down pipe/BEGI ecu reflash/450cc Bosch injectors/target 12psi

-Do you need to run the Inconel studs an both the turbo-to-manifold flange as well as the head-to-manifold studs?

-Does the 2000 nb motor also have the oil squirters in the crankcase?

-I've just ordered AWR motor mounts. Are these going to cause the vibration problems that this thread eluded to?

-Where is the "correct" placement for your o2 wideband sensor? Is 12 a safe track target a/f?

-what heat range plug is a good starting point?

thx for all your input!

 

Just the turbo to manifold needs Inconel studs and we offer them here.

Yes, keep them.

No experience with them but it will depend which durometer you ordered. I'd imagine the 95 durometer mounts will.

Not upside down so condensation doesn't collect on the sensor and about a foot or two down your downpipe. Too close (inches from outlet) and you will put too much heat into the sensor. Safe AFR depends on many other things, but generally about 12:1 should be safe as long as your EGTs are in check

BKR7E-11

 

I would not run a reflashed ECU on the track. I would only run a full standalone. The science behind reflashing stock ecu's still seems like voodoo magic and I do not trust it.

Only from manifold to turbo, not from head to manifold.

I believe so, but I am not positive.

I do not know.

I do not know what the exact distance back you want the o2 sensor at. I know the instructions for the LC-1 tell you though. You do want it sticking straight up at a 12 o'clock position so that water droplets do not form on it while sitting. I would aim for 11.8:1 in boost.

 

Are those considered "solid" mount, aka derlin or hockey pucks? If so they're much too stiff. I ran one MSM and one derlin mount and found a crack in my downpipe within a month. Coincidence? Maybe. But I got rid of it when I upgraded to Artech. Didn't wanna risk it.

 

they are still vibration isolating and are NOT like the hockey puck/solid mounts. At the very least the AWR mounts do not have metal to metal contact from the motor to chassis, so that should help.

But they are much stiffer than the MSM/stockers for sure.

 

I'm assembling the car now, so I thank you for your timely responses... and thanks to the forum for getting me up the learning curve!

-Crashnascar: I'll gladly order these form your site. Do you threadlock them to the manifold and then safety wire them at the turbine housing flange?

-Shuiend: Sorry to say, the ECU is already ordered. Would you be able to help me review a dyno sheet at a later date; one at wot and one at mid throttle/steady state to at least catch the "big problems"?

-Curly: 88 durometer derlin bushings.

 

BKR7E-11 gapped to .025-.028

 

what type of gaskets do people use for head to manifold to turbo to downpipe?

im pretty sure a few of you dont run downpipe gaskets from what I have read.

but I have has some bad luck with gaskets leaking and blowing out.

yesterday at a khanacross I blew my mani to turbo gasket (presumably my ---- came loose) so im gonna order some inco studs from sav provided he'll post to aus to replace the nuts and bolts I use.

should I make up some copper gaskets or should I use the dimpled multilayer types?

cheers

 

You use an oem gasket between the head and the manifold. Then you do not use any gaskets between the manifold and turbo, and turbo and downpipe.

 

thankyou I like the idea of not using gaskets.

just wondering is it hard to get a good seal (exhaust leaking before the turbo really hurts spool).

 

If the surfaces are flat you shouldn't have a problem.

 

The only issue I have had on track with my FM II has been overheating on hot days. I'm trying some new radiator shrouding fabricated out of plasticore next week. If I have done a good job all the air entering the front of the car has to go through the radiator to get out. Fingers crossed.

 

Very useful thread. I was just about the ask about spark plug heat range and gap but I see that was already answered.



How much benefit will I get out of the complete inconel stud set versus just the stage 8 locking hardware? I understand that the the nut won't back off with the stage 8 hardware, much like using safety wire, but I'm guessing without the iconel studs the oem ones will still expand enough to leave a small gap between turbo and manifold leading to increase vibrations and fatigue wear on the oem studs?

I'm just trying to fully understand the inconel stud justification before purchasing it. Also, has anyone sourced a better price anywhere? The FM seems more than fair, but just curious.


This:
Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : Stage 8 locking turbo hardware(8mm)

Versus this:
Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : Stage 8 hardware with Inconel studs

 

Somebody should start a thread on discussing exhaust studs, huh?