Nick needs to explain himself. I tell everyone the black car is 10 seconds faster....
again, you need better zip ties....

 

I bet he was running a stock kit straight from FM or Bell, I also have money that he over heated many times and also det blew a few motors, and I'd like to finish with him also running 205 RA1 on a 15x7.

 

I'll take some educated guesses at some of the mistakes illeniummx5 made. Mistakes myself and everyone else here has made at some point. Willing to bet his team made at least 75% of these throughout development and still had 25% when they finally threw in the towel

Stuff Miata track turbo guys do wrong

• No hood vents
• Hood vents in the wrong location, i.e behind #3 cylinder
• No full coverage undertray
• Radiator core not 100% sealed for air leakage around it
• No reroute
• #6 or #5 plugs
• Stock coils
• NA batch fire ignition
• NA6 batch fuel
• Pump gas of 92 or lower octane
• Non-Inconel manifold studs
• OTS BEGI or FM manifold w/o turbo support brace
• OEM Garrett internal wastegate and >10psi instead of VTA
• Too small VTA BOV
• Intake pipes without beads
• Intake pipes held on with ordinary worm drive hose clamps
• Throttle plate not epoxied
• Solid motor mounts broke other stuff on car
• OEM diff mounts - broken exhaust
• No V-Band in DP
• OEM Rods
• OEM pistons
• OEM oil pump
• No clutch bypass for starting leading to toasted thrust bearings
• No oil cooler
• No trans cooler
• No diff cooler
• 5 speed transmission (went through at least four I bet)
• Rubber lines for turbo oil and/or coolant
• Restrictive tube/Fin I/C from big name American company instead of superior Chinese Bar/Plate off ebay (who knew)
• Piggy back ECU
• >13psi with NA cam/crank angle sensor + ragged edge tune = det
• No WB02
• WB02 in wrong place
• No EGT
• Coolant temp sensor at front of head
• Heater bypass w/o restrictor
• OEM 16psi rad cap instead of 19psi Koyo/Stant
• Too few/misaligned exhaust hangers = cracked DP
• Bad welds, cracked DP or exhaust
• 5th injector in manifold
• RX7 460cc injectors
• RC engineering injectors
• No det cans used during dyno tuning
• Boost turned up after dyno, then raced
• Boost turned up way past highest efficiency island on compressor map
• Zero safeties built in to ECU (overboost,EGT,WB02,coolant pressure etc)
• Insufficient heat shielding for heater hoses, master cylinder, trans tunnel
• More than one change in intake pipe cross section dimension between compressor-I/C or I/C- TB.
• Under drive pulleys
• Road tune only for WOT/peak boost only (no steady state part throttle dyno tune)
• $25 junkyard turbos
• Non-water cooled turbo

Non-engine stuff done wrong

• Koni yellows with GC coilovers
• Spec Miata suspension
• OEM rubber suspension bushings
• NA6 diff
• Open diff
• more rear camber than front
• Anything less than 9" wheels
• 205/50/15's
• Zero front aero but tons of drag/lift inducing cooling holes in vain attempt to stop overheating
• No wing
• No hard top
• Bolt in cage
• NA8 brakes with Hawk Blues
• OEM bone stock hubs
• OEM end links
• A/C components still in car
• >2400lb comp weight

 

That dude is also a total brownie-hound.

 

Just curious but what's wrong with rc injectors? And is a coolant reroute needed on every engine?(99+)?

 

RC injectors should work, just are not the most optimal. They are just an older injector design. I would not worry about them.

A reroute is generally a good idea if you car is boosted and you will be tracking it. Unless you have an 01-05 VVT motor and are running the stock head gasket. Honestly I would want a reroute and big radiator on track even without boost.

 

I want an oil cooler more than a reroute on track. my 37mm koyo is keeping temps at 190* +/- 5. that puts the rear at about what? 20-30* higher? thats not bad really.

Both would be good though .

 

Well, I'm fucked.

 

lol, me too. i think some of that might be more endurance racing than trackday or sprint race car. here's my ahem, hm, shortcomings.

Stock coils (seem to last 2 yrs.)
Non-Inconel manifold studs (tack weld turbo to mani.) will call trackspeed when i replace this turbo and go inconel
OTS BEGI/FM prototype manifold w/o turbo support brace. 10yr/100k mi. on it
a few pipes held on with ordinary worm drive hose clamps
Throttle plate not epoxied
OEM diff mounts - never broke exhaust, but my exhaust guy is legendary 'round here
No V-Band in DP
OEM oil pump (afaik)
5 speed transmission (broke original 180k mi. tranny, car was drag racer until i bought it) i practice mechanical empathy shifting
RC engineering injectors
OEM rubber suspension bushings

 

Oh crap.... I'm scared now. Not sure I can pull off buying a NB & doing all the learning, just to be able to have a fast, reliable track car.

 

epoxied throttle body? Never heard of this being done and how it would be done. Can anyone steer me in the right direction as to how to do this.

 

Search "broken throttle shaft" on m.net. Basically, the shaft breaks and/or the screws back out, the engine ingests them, and sometimes its fatal. Just smear some normal 2-part epoxy over the screws to hold them in place.

 

Me too - I'm just a wannabe I guess with my Yellows and GC's - and a vent behind #3 (and a bunch of other ****)

 

P.S. that's not a direct quote, I deleted everything I have done to my "track" car. I need to be faster, I'm not breaking enough ****.

 

lol its like an AA meeting.

 

It's my first track day on Sunday. How do you guys tell the turbo stud are backing out, or do you just check after 1-2 laps?

 

Just check them after each season, once you start approaching sub spec Miata times you will start to see the back out. Bring a spare bolt or two because they like to snap off.

 

Just replace them now, save yourself the heart ache. BTW, loose turbo stuffs will warp flange suraces and melt stuff under the hood.

 

I'm starting to think most of these parts I got were produced on a Monday and for some reason you scored parts made by an employee who lived in a harem.

 

Lol, don't know. Maybe I lovingly coax speed from my car, while you ---- assault yours around the course.