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What do YOU use to tow your track car?

 
Old 11-12-2018, 03:52 PM
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Got me an 06 V8 4Runner Sport, seems it will be plenty fine to haul a light Miata on an open trailer. I am excited.
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Old 11-12-2018, 05:04 PM
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Random anecdote about tow vehicles:

Towing up to Thunderhill last week, I saw two other friends along the way. They were towing essentially identical trailers (24-ish foot ATC aluminum enclosed, I'd guess around 6500 lbs loaded), one with a truck like mine (GMT800 crew cab diesel), the other with a diesel Mercedes SUV (GL, I think). The Benz had a weight distributing, anti-sway hitch, but it was windy and driving behind him I watched his trailer as it hopped a foot to the left or right fairly frequently. The trailer behind the Chevy was rock solid stable, even with a basic hitch.

--Ian
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:17 AM
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One of my track buddies owns a trucking company. He always touted the importance of weight and wheel base of the tow vehicle. Having 6500lbs pushing you around is no joke. Ask yourself what you want to be driving when that happens. All to often people think in terms of what said vehicle can pull.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by k24madness View Post
One of my track buddies owns a trucking company. He always touted the importance of weight and wheel base of the tow vehicle. Having 6500lbs pushing you around is no joke. Ask yourself what you want to be driving when that happens. All to often people think in terms of what said vehicle can pull.
QFT

The other thing that's not often discussed is the fatigue from driving a rig that's at/over capacity. It's nice to get to the track relaxed and sharp.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:36 AM
  #1165  
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Originally Posted by k24madness View Post
One of my track buddies owns a trucking company. He always touted the importance of weight and wheel base of the tow vehicle. Having 6500lbs pushing you around is no joke. Ask yourself what you want to be driving when that happens. All to often people think in terms of what said vehicle can pull.
This is partly why I had no problem ended up with my F350 dually. I don't have a ton of experience towing, but I have.talked to many truck drivers. All of them say buy much bigger then you think you need. Especially once you get into the enclosed trailer territory.
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Old 11-13-2018, 12:49 PM
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I can certainly appreciate the want for a light car, light trailer, and light tow vehicle and I know there are some very well balanced and appropriate setups that have been posted on here. On the other hand, I also agree that once you step away from that idea of lighter is better and into the world of enclosed trailers (with some super light aluminum trailers possibly being an exception) that a bigger, longer wheel base tow vehicle makes the trip so much better, safer, and more enjoyable. There is so much more to towing than just the "tow rating." Proper brakes, suspension, weight, etc all need to be accounted for. I personally tow a 24' enclosed with an older 2500HD and use weight distribution bars every time I hook up. I barely feel the trailer back there with the exception of needing to consciously downshift for hills (my truck runs on gas...no torque!)

The past two events I followed some very questionable tow setups. One was a newer (2015-ish?) Ford Explorer towing a 20' steel/wood enclosed and no weight distribution. Not only was the rear end squatting like crazy, it was quite scary watching the trailer push the SUV around, sometimes jumping into my lane. Every time we came to a stop all I could smell was brakes, which I assume was coming from the Explorer. Then I was behind an older Chevy 1500 towing an enclosed longer than mine (28' probably) without weight distribution. It was so squatted in the rear it had to been riding on the rear bump stops. The front end was so lifted I can't imagine how floaty it felt, especially as we were going through the mountains. A simple weight distribution setup would've made that guy's experience so much better. According to my owner's manual it states that anything over 5000 lbs requires weight distribution, and he was well over that I'm sure.
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Old 12-23-2018, 06:27 PM
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I had been towing my 240sx and miata for a few years now on this setup.

240,000 mile 1994 fzj80 with an anemic straight 6 and questionably rusty hitch. I always feared the day I'd hit a big enough bump and see the trailer passing me on the highway.

So I finally decided I have too many cars and too risky of a tow rig and traded in my 92000 mile 2007 STi for this 2016 Tundra Limited.



What a massive improvement. I used to dread hills, having to prep for them by speeding up beforehand and hoping I didn't drop too far below the limit before the top. Or cursing slow drivers keeping me from getting my runup. The 4.5L 6 did not like upshifting and definitely didn't like the high revs.
The tundra is like easy mode for towing. Should have done this sooner. But anyways theres my tow rig. I took off every bit of chrome on it, changed the headlights to 2019 TRD pro versions, swapped the grille, etc etc.
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:23 PM
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Tie down question. Trailer came with minimal tie down points.

Was thinking about buying a bunch of these: https://www.etrailer.com/p-SR15-C.html and bolting them on the outside frame rail with some carriage bolts.

Then a set of these: https://www.etrailer.com/p-BDW20230.html to be able to tie down a variety of vehicles.

Thoughts?
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:02 PM
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1/2" wide?

Doesn't seem very strong.

Need more girth.
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:29 PM
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1-3/16" wide. 3-1/2" long. 7/16 bolt holes.

#1600 working load. 4 tie down points gives me #6400 capacity on a 7k rated trailer.
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:42 PM
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Also looking at this one: https://www.etrailer.com/Tie-Down-An...t/3486509.html

More beef.
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:52 PM
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I'm a fan of Mac's tie downs. More expensive, but made in the US and top quality. Mac's Tiedowns

As far as the anchor points, I've always used the 4 bolt recessed type, but according to the spec, those should be sufficient.
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:57 AM
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Why bolt when you can weld?

--Ian
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:58 AM
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Bolting is easier. requires less painting.
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Old 01-27-2019, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Bolting is easier. requires less painting.
IMHO it's easier to hit it with a rattle can than drill the holes and go buy the bolts.

--Ian
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Old 01-27-2019, 10:00 AM
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I have an aluminum open trailer with wood deck.

I did buy Mac's straps during Xmas sale but still unsure whether to use their direct hook to stake pocket or use D rings that swivel as they are a bit pricey.

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/pr...d-ring/D-Rings

Another option is to use the direct hook and chain extension through stake pockets

I don't think I trust my aluminum stake pockets and perhaps D Rings bolted through wood deck with a backing plate is safer.

What is the recommendation on MT, stake pocket and hook or install D rings ?

Last edited by stevos555; 01-27-2019 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 01-27-2019, 10:23 AM
  #1177  
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Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
1-3/16" wide. 3-1/2" long. 7/16 bolt holes.

#1600 working load. 4 tie down points gives me #6400 capacity on a 7k rated trailer.
The way the text wrapped it looked like 1/2" lol.
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Old 01-27-2019, 10:27 PM
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I bought some weld on D rings too. Going to get them both in hand and decide.
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Old 01-31-2019, 06:25 PM
  #1179  
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switched to a Transit Van 350 this year from an F150, amazed at how much more I like it.
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Old 02-01-2019, 09:02 AM
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Cool setup, til you need an alignment ...
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