Why pay for a UOA if you have a spec sheet from the internet?
It would definitely be cheaper than $60 per oil change, lol.

if I put spec sheet in oil filler hole, can i pull it out in 1000 miles and see updated specs?

Run it through the filter so it will report TBN.

I always wanted to post this. everybody swear by Blackstone analysis. if you look up their FAQ, quote:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/faq.php

"What's the best oil to use?

Ah, the million dollar question. We are an independent lab, so we don't make recommendations. It has been our experience that oil is oil, and either petroleum or synthetic-based oil will work well for just about any engine."

"Come on, you're holding out on me. I should use synthetic, right?

Buddy, you should use whatever you want. Synthetic oil won't guarantee a longer engine life any more than my eating organic food will guarantee I'll live until I'm 90. We here at Blackstone generally use regular petroleum-based oil because honestly, it works just as well for us."



fyi, I use Synthetic and use Blackstone for oil analysis.

Woah, let's face the facts here........

hustler has a small wee-wee!

wow that is actually pretty interesting, how simple they make it considering they are in the biz.

so you use synthetic, what weight? do you track?

me ? yes I do track and in different cars, including my Prius.
I personally prefer higher weight oil. 5w40 in winter, 15w50 in summer. T6 is good for everything. but don't mind running on sale 5w30 also. I am not as ---- on oil as most guys here..

Not sure if it has been said here but my experience from national level motocross...high revving, high horsepower, minimum oil capacity, single cylnder engines (crf450) ......."type" and brand of oil is far less important than the regularity of the oil change.....

That quote above from the Blackstone guys (who i have never heard of to be fair...) would pretty much indicate along the same lines....

local weather would influence the oil weight though....

Another vote for Rotella Synthetic T6 5W-40. The wally-world puts this one sale every now and again and I consider it cheap insurance.

I use a bestial Rotella T Dino Juice 20W-50 in my 73 Ford F250. Why? BECAUSE OLD TRUCK ZINC/ZDDP!

Word.

Lets add more contraversy to this thread: What oil filters do you prefer on your track car? :rofl:

another interesting stat:

http://bridgetogantry.com/2/index.ph...&Itemid=300053

Nurburgring Suzuki track car, 2 years and 2800 laps later, ~37k miles

this is the Suzuki track rental car around Nurburgring.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

First off, let's look at what 'YY' achieved during it's 3 season tenure at the Nürburgring Nordschleife:

59000kms (~37,000 miles ) on the Nürburgring Nordschleife, or a little over 2800 laps.
Gave 457 different drivers their Nürburgring kicks. Some were fast, some were slow. Some were nice to the car, a few were frankly awful!
Peak engine speed of 8761rpm (you know who you are!)
Still making 133bhp on the dyno
600 hours of racetrack driving - that's around 25 normal 24-hour races!
180 million engine revolutions
168 thousand gear changes, some were nice, a lot were not!

What did it use, burn or break?

Sorry Greenpeace, but it burnt 8400ltrs of 98RON super plus gas, at an average of 14ltrs/100km or about 20mpg (that's imperial mpg, U.S. mpg is 16.8MPG) !
It used 55 litres of top-grade fully-synthetic Motul motor oil (that's roughly 15 oil changes), and two changes of gearbox oil
27 front brake pads, 10 rears
52 super-sticky Toyo 888 tyres, and one set of four Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres.
One replacement clutch (stock Suzuki)
Three complete brake fluid flushes
One wheel bearing (front left)
One new alternator and one new battery
One set of wipers

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

in summary:

1. oil change frequency, that worked out to ~2,700 track miles per oil change. which is equivalent to ~15 track days.
2. 3 complete brake fluid flushes. that's ~14,000 track miles per brake flush, about 80 track days per flush.
3. 2 gear box fluid change. that's ~100 track days per fluid change.

may be, just may be we don't need to go crazy on oil change interval....

HOLY ---- EPIC THREAD IS EPIC.

Is ass master seriously arguing for a spec sheet over an oil analysis? The ---- you read on the internet...

And FWIW there are plenty of people who have gotten rotella analyzed, all over the internet. It always comes back positive.

And on a personal note, I run the shiz in everything, all my cars, motorcycles, etc. I know this means -----all usually, but in a motorcycle you can definitely tell a difference in how the tranny likes to shift. All my bikes liked rotella better than the mucho $$$ bike specific oil

So my two cents. Well OK four cents because I have twice as many cylinders but I digress...

Rotella T6 in everything: LS1 Track Miata, 130K mile Toyota Tundra used for heavy towing duty, my supercharged E36 M3 daily driver, my former 320 WHP 1.8L turbo Miata, my SV650 track bike, and my POS Murray riding lawnmower. None have ever had lubrication related issues. Most have had no issues. I have been running the LS1 Miata very hard every time I drive it for almost three seasons of racing now and it runs as good as the day I started racing it, dyno verified. And it was a used engine to begin with.

I buy a couple of gallons of T6 whenever I venture into WallyMart, and three gallons if it is on sale.

It also makes an awesome butt lube... or so I hear...

So maybe all of my vehicles would have done as well on $1 a gallon generic oil from the Dollar Store but I'll never know. Based on the price, and what I have read on NOAs, UOAs (including one of mine) and BITOG, I have no motivation to use anything else other than T6, at least as long as Shell never gets stingy on the additive package.

I should pull out some of the T6 oil I just ran three race weekends on in the LS1 and send it off to Blackstone for UOA. I did add a quart or two here and there (LS1s burn a bit of oil) but otherwise it is untouched.


Some say that his favorite drink is Rotella T6 with a WaterWetter chaser. And that, from the parking lot, he can smell an inferior additive package sitting on the shelf of any given auto parts store. All we know is, he is called The Hustler.

Is BJ just trying for the all time negative props record?

/Threadjack

anyone run, Valvoline VR-1 ? its non synthetic racing oil loaded with zddp. you can get it at napa

do it. then get an oil analysis. Then run rotella, and get an oil analysis. That's the only way you'll ever know if one is better.

rotella is probably cheaper though.

What version of VR-1?

VR-1 Synthetic (black bottle) http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ng-motor-oil/8
VR-1 Dino (grey bottle) http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ng-motor-oil/6
VR-1 Synthetic ("Not Street Legal" black bottle) http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ng-motor-oil/9

http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/

A friend has been running the petroleum based (grew bottle) VR-1 in his Triumph Spitfire (1500cc british tractor motor lol.) He had it rebuilt TWICE after it ate the cam and lifters TWICE due to retarded modern oil. 1970's technology flat tappet engines (like british cars) NEED the additional zinc and phosphorous to stay alive and VR-1 is one of the more readily available oils with this type of additive package. I don't have a UOA to prove it, but I can tell you he's got 30k+ on the most recent rebuild and its still running like a champ.

I used the synthetic 10-30 (black bottle) VR-1 for a while until I read about the T6. Nothing wrong with the VR-1, but T6 is cheaper and more readily available in my neck of the woods.