Got distracted and didn't work on the car for a bit, but I'm back at it now!








Had my girlfriend help me bleed them, two cycles around the car and everything feels pretty good. It's a 7/8" single circuit master cylinder, we'll see how it actually feels when I can drive the car around.

 

Looking good sir!

Is it just me or is there very little room between that coolant fitting and the shock tower? Maybe its just the angle?

 

Plenty of room, I don't see what the problem is? I still need to order a banjo fitting for the coolant, but it's working for now.

Also, I got some color in the manifold and downpipe this evening...



So there are a fair number of things wrong in this picture. Wastegate actuator arm only kinda attached, Wastegate source line not even connected, Valve cover vent open to the world, Stage8 locks not installed, No heat shielding for the brake MC or lines, Brake proportioning valve held up by the brake lines, Brake proportioning valve set for full rear brakes, Turbo coolant fitting almost hitting the frame, Air filter literally larger than the turbo, etc (and that's only the list of things wrong in the picture!).

But despite all of these deficiencies, it made positive pressure today!

I foolishly drove it around the neighborhood while autotuning a bit as I've been itching to have the boostsss after watching cxracer get his car tuned last weekend.
Notes from my foolish drive: boost cut is scary, boost cut at 130 kpa makes the car kinda hard to drive, it is possible to chirp 225 R888's (coldish) in second at 70% throttle, no hood gets even more stares than the car normally does, I really like the sound of the the little tiny turbo spooling, the car is not so loud as to be undriveable and will likely make sound at laguna, I also really like the sound of the bov which is good because it makes it a lot (like all the time a lot).

Log attached: Not really great as I mostly stayed out of it and never got past 2nd gear, but there is a 151.3kpa cell in there much more tooning and fixing of things to be done, but boost is progress!

 

niiice
that 2554 will make the bp4w feel like a v6

 

Still working on the tune.

 

Just take that whole bottom row and make it 10.0s, you'll be fine.

 

Bring it here, I will get rid of that soot

 

Wait TSE manifold and 2554????

 

I can't wait for the dyno plot.

I'm guessing 200 URRYWHERE, maybe more.

 

Need to get back to SF I suppose.

FWIW, full rear bias on the prop valve isn't necessarily a problem. I think that's Johnny at OG's recommendation, and it was fine on the NA. First time through 10 was a bit slidey, but after that it was fine.

 

You need to bring it out to Laguna on Monday with GGLC.

--Ian

 

Pat, you're welcome to come wrench on it any time you want to fly back Full rear bias seems fine so far. The pedal is quite stiff and I've yet to lock the brakes up but it seems to stop OK.

I need to do a lot more VEAL before I'll be happy to take it anywhere to get tuned. I also need to wrap up a lot of loose ends before I should drive it anywhere beyond around my house (which does not include Laguna, but might include an NCR meet or two ).

Along the lines of wrapping up loose ends, I did a bit of work this evening.

Welded in a waste gate source bung in to the intake tubing and wired up and installed my Spal fan. The fan moves an impressive amount of air! I used those plastic though the core mount tie things for now but will eventually make better mounts and a shroud. Maybe when I do a reroute.




I also started working on a cardboard mock up of the brake/clutch MC heat sheild. It's going to be a bit more involved than I had hoped.



So many more little things, but the heat shield and some crankcase breather setup are really necessary before I drive it too much.

 

You realize mrls isn't until October right? You are starting way too early on this. Go back to europe for a bit.

Title change plz, thread does not meet expectations

 

Is it possible to do something stupid simple like get a larger diameter pipe that follows the same bend radius as the downpipe, split it, and then add it to the downpipe as a heat shield with an air gap? Weld some threaded spacers to the DP to act as mounts and provide said air gap? Just thinking out loud here.

 

Cover the cardboard in aluminum foil and call it done?

--Ian

 

Well, it's a few weeks before M@MRLS! Isn't it crazy how time flys?

I guess it's time to get serious!

I've got this weekend and the weekend of the 24th/25th to fix anything before M@MRLS. Plus evenings after work, but honestly I don't get much done in the evening besides some cleaning of the garage.

Things I'd really like to do:
- Install Eo2k's old torsen
- Heat shielding for more of the brake stuff near the turbo
- Heat shielding for the drivers leg from the exhaust pipe that is now exposed into the "cabin"...
- pay/bribe 18psi to come down a day or two before MRLS and help me adjustfix the tune

Things I'd like to do but probably wont get to:
- Replace the clutch and flywheel (new ones are sitting in my garage waiting...)
- Build a rear firewall
- Build a battery box
- Find and install a coolfunctional center mirror
- More gauges! (finish my custom gauge?)
- Paint and mount the headlight covers
- Etc...

 

Pick a date. Srs. I'm free every weekend between now and MRLS (except this one)

 

What day would be the day before? Thurs?

 

Gonna work on the heat shielding and maybe the diff this weekend. Perhaps we plan on doing the clutch the weekend before?

Thursday or Friday, whichever is better for you?

 

And



Swapped the 4.3 open for a 4.1 torsen. Not an ideal pairing with my 6 speed, but better for sure. New axle seals installed and amsoil severe gear 75/90 tomorrow after the right stuff has dried a bit.

I'm gonna pull the drivers seat tomorrow and work on cabin heat shielding.