18 psi tune. Only difference in the car is it's not leaning out anymore and it has a torsen.

lets just say i am very disappointed with the results. the smaller turbo would've probably done better.

Trying to decide where to go from here for my goal of 300-350.

The way i see it. Part out. Buy Trackspeed 6758

or find a bigger turbo that fits and fab a new downpipe.

or part everything

 

Can we see the rpms on the x axis and a torque curve as well with rpms on x axis?

 

This just doesn't seem right to me.
There was a little known crappy dyno experience I had before I found my current dyno (none of them seem able to get everything right.)
But the first one had me reading 130 WHP when I was able to trap 99 in the 1/4. Didn't make sense, I knew it was wrong because my car was way faster than a 25% increase.
I am pretty sure that with the large turbo I must be close to 250 at 6800 where my logs show me shifting on a 12 second pass. Usually close to 18psi up top. No dyno graph to back it up but I can trap 108 & 109.

 

Did you dyno it in 3rd or something? Why does it stop at 95 mph?

--Ian

 

You made more power at 16psi, is the timing significantly different at 18psi?
Is it faster than before?
You can always load the tune from last time.

Carlos

 

Requested this info from the tuner, Should have it by today

I really have only driven the car home - apparently the alternator is shot and they had it hooked up the whole time. I am going to charge the battery and swap the alternator later today.

I am not sure why this was done, i did hear a shift during this dyno run.

I plan on taking the car for a ride today after i fix the alternator - I'll be able to judge better then but honestly didn't feel much different.(Besides me not spinning one side)

I didn't really get to take a look at the tune differences.

 

*During* the run, or during the setup for the run?

On a dynojet, the dyno is stopped at the beginning of the run, so you need to use 1st gear and the clutch to get it moving, then shift it into whatever gear you're going to use for the run and get it to the desired starting RPM (2000-2500, typically). You do not shift during the run itself.

As far as gear is concerned, you generally want to do it in whatever gear is 1:1 (for an NA/NB, that's 4th on a 5-speed, 5th on a 6-speed). Lower gears will show higher inertial losses, the 1:1 gear has the least drivetrain frictional losses (because there are no gears meshing), and it's also the strongest gear so it's the one you're least likely to break.

--Ian

 

I want to say it was during but i am not sure. I remember seeing the dyno operator log on remotely right after into the lobby computer to generate that sheet, still waiting on the new sheet.

I replaced the alternator and it does seem to have resolved a few issues (such as idle at 2k). While inspecting the area shortly after startup i couldn't stop looking for what i believed to be a big vacuum leak, the culprit being the back of the intake manifold.

I grabbed a spare from my old engine and zip tied it into place.

My idle is now a few rpms too low aswell. I need more megasquirt knowledge to fix simple stuff like this.

 

Can you run the virtual dyno and see what that says now?

 

No virtual dyno but 2 butt dyno's yesterday confirmed pretty much the same power. I will go as far as saying the smaller one is still better. (Original MK turbo)

I am looking into getting a T3 60 trim garret stage 3 turbo with the 5 bolt ford style exhaust turbine housing or something like this that can drop right in place and fit my power goals.

Or i'll get rid of my current manifold / turbo / downpipe and go with one of the EFR kits

 

After some serious obsession i believe i have this figured out - I must've ordered the wrong big turbo. The current one is quoted as being a t04b 400hp capable turbocharger. This is not like the first big turbo i had that was destroyed. nor is it like the one suggested to me by lars.

I have ordered the correct one, I will sit around and wait to measure the compressor wheels again.

 

Oh that's a bummer. At least you figured it out.

Hopefully the cost wasn't too bad!

 

Eh, it was about 5 times less then the amount im going to have to spent on my G35 for a new engine, so i am okay with it lol.

A part of me wants to go for a 500hp Goal in the miata, All i would need is ebay cast manifold and a new downpipe for this 6262, but then i get flashbacks of all the times I've blown an engine or turbo and have had to get towed home, there's that dream gone.

Proceeding with the 300-350 Goal , Just waiting on my new big turbo.

 

 

Power is peaking at 5500? There's some serious restriction in there somewhere. Turbo too weenie? What's the exhaust like?

Also, why did he only run the dyno to 6250? Sure, the power is dropping after that point, but it's still useful to see the shape of the torque curve.

Looks like 12:1 AFR? That's leaner than I like to run it at 18-19 psi. I run 11.5 at about 12 psi, and 11:1 over 15.

--Ian

 

Yes Turbo too weenie indeed, I'll be confirming once i receive the other turbo i ordered. The current turbo is a t04b housing which is known to be alot more restrictive. Exhaust is 2.5 dp to 3 in

I'm not sure why the dyno was only ran to 6k - that is around the same rev limiter of my G35 - I'm thinking there's some confusion going on there.

I believe he was trying to lean it out to make more power, cause that was the only difference last time and it made more power.

I'll be looking for another tuner in my area.

 

the spool doesn't suggest the turbo is weenie...

looks like it's not holding power to redline, or your spark timing is dropping off. Have you tuned your timing latency? it could be easily dropping 10° by redline, despite demanding the same as at peak.



do you have a log of the pull? or at least a msq to review?


these things don't make power on lean fueling, nor is that a safe practice -- do not like this tuner.

 

I didn't actually realize how quickly you got this build together. You started in September!

 

Honestly i feel like I've been at it for 3 years now.

Going to have the knock sensor installed this week, and retuned on the original Mkturbo.

Debating on which EFR Kit to get and 6758. That the only way I am going to be happy with this car.

 

Like a bawse!