not sure how i want to tackle it yet, most likely i will use air tools on a very low setting to slow the cutting, or do it by hand

Engine was dropped in today with the help of friends, had a lot of issues because my engine leveler was not hooked on straight, and thus some damage occurred during the drop in.



Wackbards mentioned a Swage tool before, so i didnt really panic but i hope its fixable once i bend it back, we will see.



i need to find replacement brackets for the racing beat front sway bar so i can rid of that rusty stock sway bar.

Guess I'm painting a bit more soon, will most likely paint the radiator brackets (currently still red) - depends how it looks once i drop the rad in.

 

You borked them both up pretty good it looks like. It's really soft metal though, so you might luck out. For $7, it's worth a shot.

HDX Swaging Tool-HDX053 - The Home Depot

 

That tool didnt do too bad at all. there's still a little of a cave in near the middle - I'm thinking with a hose clamp i should be able to get it more round near the firewall, regardless it should work fine, thanks for the link, that's the exact one i was looking at and got.



Didnt do anything crazy - i took my time with piecing everything together from the bottom up, Tried to move my driveshaft to put one of the bolts in and for some reason it just wouldn't budge at all, first time this has happened to me, might have to do with the car having a torsen now, but Idk, I'll be going back once i have the car started
Dyno Tune day 7.31 -

First start definitely this week, just need to do the water lines and hook up the turbo and figure out the hotside piping so i can break in the engine / turbo in a bit

Won't really be able to drive it considering there's a new downpipe, I'll have to figure out who can modify the mkturbo midpipe locally to mate to the trackspeed downpipe (MK is vband, Trackspeed is 2 bolt flange) plus/minus a bit of length

 

Ftfy. Vband ftw

 

thinking about using a 3" vband kit i got for free.. that means id have to chop off the two flange off the trackspeed downpipe, that might hurt my soul to fab new parts

Almost blew my turbo at first start





Downpipe "Cleareance" I am most definitely going to have to trim the rear shelf to account for the movement on the stock mounts, planning on upgrading mounts soon.







ac plans have been put to the side for now, i would need to re-tap the pan and get a 3/8 plug for the existing hole, maybe even swap the pan.

 

Get the mazda comp mounts or the 949 hybrid mounts and get it over with!

Use a hammer to massage the shelf for clearance!

 

Picked up this hose a while back, still need to get a long tube to splice up my hoses and reroute it a bit better, it has been running right off the top radiator for a while. Planning on picking something up tomorrow to address that - (1-1/4in alum pipe)



didnt trim the top two locking tabs, , bottom left one needed some assistance, the one under that you cant see.. I'm still figuring it out, clearly i will need to trim it way down - no way its backing out though, unless my turbo falls off.




down pipe clearance







and my hot side mock up, same cold side, but i will be going back with mineral spirits and double checking / cleaning everything before first start, which is really probably at the end of the weekish.





In order to make that all happen, i did alot of banging around. Hammer ftw

Had to chop my heater core line a bit to make way for the downpipe also (thanks emil for the pics)



I'm planning on adding a zip tie to pull it away from the downpipe aswell.. I don't think i should have any issues with the wrap, but i guess time will tell.

 

Your locking tabs are all oriented totally wrong. They should be setup to stop the loosening of the nuts.

 

^shhh. I thought that was really funny, and pretty harmless not to say anything

I mean, at least he put them on haha

 

Thanks, i had atleast one right lol -i thought the idea was to prevent backing - but now i see how its both., will definitely be adjusting them some more soon.


Couldn't find 1 1/4 alum anywhere locally..So Picked this up at advanced for like 5$ to use for my reroute




hot / coldside routing done, cleaned with mineral sprits, Really just need to do the intake piping at this point, and also figure out the catch can.

Added oil, Fixed Loose oil plug / filter lol.

Added Coolant, Fixed Loose turbo coolant lines.

Need to prime / first start, but i want to double check everything 5 more times.

 

The fact that it's called Ëmergency Hose Repair Kit" indicates it should only be used short term in an emergency - it's only US$5 too so that should indicate its durability.

ie. Use an aluminium hose joiner instead.

 

Thread title needs a refresh.

Have at it mods!

 

Dual catch can completed

Also completed intake setup, still need to wrap it in the gold heat reflective tape. - the Theme in the engine bay will be green / gold, i have new couplers / vac lines on the way.

 

Why vent the one can, shouldn't you route that vent into the intake to get ride of PCV fumes?

 

I read in another thread that you can shape that pipe back to spec with a socket. Try to get a socket whose OD is as close as possible to the ID of the heater core tubes. Then smash it in.

 

That can should be vented, but also rerouted back into the intake. Thats what I learned from deezums thread, anyways. I just drilled and tapped the top metal housing of the exhaust side air/oil separator, and put a fitting on and then the small filter over it.

 

So first start was attempted today, and i have no oil pressure, fuel inj fuse was pulled. currently trying to figure out wtf is going on. My oil feed line is dry, i know the engine is full of oil.

 

O ring between oil pump and block?
Paper gasket between pickup tube and oil pump?

 

Yes, and yes. I can confirm both were used.

 

I'm out of ideas, engine gets pulled tomorrow. God i love build threads.