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1.) Sit in garage, engine off, key on, laptop open.
2.) Open I/O test mode under CANbus enable test mode, set frequency, under PP3boost click Pulsed
note, with my EFR ebc soleniod, 26Hz worked better than 39Hz, which makes sense since BW says, "the wave frequency should be less than or equal to 32 Hz."
3.) Now, change duty cycle % to 0, increase by 5 until you hear the boost control solenoid pulsing
Once it starts pulsing, decrease it by 1 until it stops, then click back up 1-2%. Record this as Min Duty %
4.) Continue to do step 3, but start at 100% and decrease by 5 until it starts pulsing, then increase by 1 until it stops, then decrease 1-2% to get it to pulse again. Record this as Max Duty %.
5.) Open up boost control settings, set to Setup Mode, set Delta to something like 25kpa, plug in your Min and Max Duty % here.
6.) Now open up Boost Control Bias Duty table and set everything to your Max Duty % (As anything higher, the solenoid isn't going to do anything, so something like 100 is redundant and makes the algorithm work hard for no reason)
This will keep the wastegate closed completely, so boost should rise as fast as possible.
Also, you'll need to fill out the KPA target table, just put your targets at your max pressure everywhere.
7.) Go for a drive, Make sure to turn overboost projection on
Make sure to turn overboost projection on
Make sure to turn overboost projection on
8.) Start in 3rd gear at around 2krpm, go WOT, watch your boost pressure until at some rpm it reaches your target, let off of the throttle, open up the Bias table again and every rpm after that some rpm you hit your target, reduce the Bias accordingly.
note, I had to have my wastegate full open at 4krpm to not explode rods with my 6258, so I set everything after 4krpm equal to my Min Duty Cycle % and intrepolated between when I hit my target pressure and when I knew the wastegate would have to be fully open.
9.) This process, step 8, can continue until you are holding your target to redline, either increasing or decreasing the Bias table. Taking logs helps see any weird spikes.
10.) Then go to Simple closed-loop tuning and max out the slider. You'll probably get some overboost or oscillation. Keep decreasing until you don't get either.
I will leave PID tuning to the pros, I don't know quite how that works very well.
This is awesome man, thanks!
Does anyone know if the DIY EBC has to click if it's working? I've never heard mine make any noise but it's clearly doing something..
all of them tick/click. it's how they regulate boost.
That's so bizarre. Mine responds as expected...oscillations with sens too high, slow response with bad min/max noises, etc. I've never heard it click though. I'll try different frequencies on setup mode and see what happens. My freq is in the range for diys reported numbers.
That's so bizarre. Mine responds as expected...oscillations with sens too high, slow response with bad min/max noises, etc. I've never heard it click though. I'll try different frequencies on setup mode and see what happens. My freq is in the range for diys reported numbers.
Notice I said with the engine off. Way too quiet to hear with it on.
OP,
-What are the confirmed min/max duty cycles per steps 1-4?
-did you input said values into the map as per step 5?
Also make sure you follow each and every step to a tee. Send back logs, and send back the resulting tune/map so I can revise and we can start dialing in closed loop PID
OP,
-What are the confirmed min/max duty cycles per steps 1-4?
-did you input said values into the map as per step 5?
Also make sure you follow each and every step to a tee. Send back logs, and send back the resulting tune/map so I can revise and we can start dialing in closed loop PID
Confirmed min 7 max 97 - My IACV was buzzling like no tomorrow, made the test that much harder to indicate the EBC pulses. - The directions were spot on and i was able to follow them pretty easy so they are very much appreciated Lexzar .
I did input said values into the map.. but i'm pretty sure i did not update the the LOW value correctly. - Initially they were 81/10 or something along those lines I replaced the two 81 columns with my high value (97), but did not update the low value, this could be where I'm having issues. Also i think my low value might be a bit lower, so I'll confirm and send you that info soon.
Life is not right if i can't work / drive the Miata
Went for a drive trying to dial in boost and decided it was a good idea to go 40 miles away to pick up some rear bumper lights for the miata. I was left stranded :(
guess i found the leak,
i am not / am to blame - but i knew this hole had lost its threads, and its held through most of my street driving, and as long as i've had the car, can't have that **** happening again though.
m8x1.25 helicoil by oem, i broke one, lost another, and the last one finally went in when i realized i didn't tap enough, should've used a drill - but accessibility was a BIG issue, so i had to tap by hand, have a bit of soreness but it was worth.
angle grinder and a harbor freight 3 piece tap set was a big help here.
I loosed both side motor mounts and left the nuts threaded on a bit, pulled up and tilted to the the side to get enough room for tap. Also - looks like my catch can is doing its job no? 2-3 tanks of gas ish
tryed to find "loctite form a thread repair" and had no luck
Went for a helicoil repair, replaced the bolts aswell. blue loctite.
So the flapper noise, and my boost control issues that I've been battling for the past week or two with Vlad have all been because of my mis-aligned turbine housing.
I thought it looked okay when i checked it the first time - but clearly i'm still learning and i should've taken it apart the first time - big thanks to 18psi again.
sticking is not a good enough word to describe
Also had to cut this finally.
Car is pretty much perfect now i hope, i am glad i found this out today and not tomorrow when i go on the dyno.
Yeah that stupid misaligned rod was a pain.
But on a more positive note, we are right under 18psi boost now, and no more funkiness
OP is out of injector. dyno tomorrow
Couldn't because he's out of injector. That 18psi plot was 11.3AFR as per logs, and since gauge didn't match TS, OP didn't feel comfortable with me leaning it out any more (and I agree that he needs to get it to match before we pursue the ragged edge)
The 18psi plot was 11-12* tapering to 14-15* iirc
The 20psi plot was done by the shop and looks like they bumped timing and boost about 1 to 2 in most places.
I expected more. Move that intake so it's not huffing hot air from the radiator, and fix all the issues that keep setting us back, and I think we can squeeze another 15-20 out of this setup. After that, you'll need injectors for sure. These FF injectors are at 100% IDC on the logs.
Talks of e85 setup and re-tune have already started
OP will have to provide the details, here's what he said was the final map
so a bit more, but still a far cry from what I've seen from other EFR6758's I tuned.
pump is an AEM, I believe 320lph
I'm not sure why the shop didn't lean it out any more. It's still way too fat up top, and he took it there specifically so that they could lean out the mixture with a properly reading wideband since his doesn't work right.
but something is holding this thing back either way. and it's not the tune.
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