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EFR also has EBC built in with the one from TSE I think. I also trust the TSE inconel studs far more then the FM studs. TSE has shown lap times sub spec-miata with no stretching, while FM has not.
... I don't know what the exact alloy differences are between the two vendors, but my FM inconel studs have held up fine. I'm not Andrew behind the wheel, but I bet he would break many things on my car before the FM studs.
Why create and spread uninformed data?
You can waste money on rx8 yellows, or just get a good injectors right away.
And having just glanced at the "list", I'll be completely honest:
unless the difference is WELL over 1500 between the two, it's no contest, get the better one
Those injectors should not be on the list. Copy / paste mistake. I have a set in my RX-8 parts box, so they are free. Being that they are big enough for my modest power goal, is there a compelling reason to spend another $300? Are FF, DW, etc. significantly better in real-world performance, or is it a little more theoretical?
The budget is what it is. The trubo kitty is finite. I can wait, but it will be at least a year before the new house is finished, and I have a place to work. (Not to mention all the financial demands building it and filling it with junk will place on my bank account.) I'm kinda wanting to use the $5K I have available to do this thing, before all those things start to cascade into the eventual avalanche.
Your yellows will support your goals with stock fuel system, or with a 3-bar referenced system. The systems are equal at 14.7 psi (roughly) boost. But if your boost is lower, then the stock system will flow more fuel.
Worst case is you lower your rev limit. It is at high RPM that you run out of duty cycle.
Hot restart idle is a pain, but my car with yellows is quite drive-able.
If I were buying injectors, they would be FF, not yellow tops.
If you have the RX8 injectors, know they are good and aren't fakes, then just run them. The main issue with them is unknown used ones or fake ones off ebay.
If you have the RX8 injectors, know they are good and aren't fakes, then just run them. The main issue with them is unknown used ones or fake ones off ebay.
I know they are real. I pulled them from a friend's car, while I was helping with his ill-advised turbo project. I'm probably just going to save for a year and go with the EFR and throw FF injectors in the cart, while I am there.
In other news, the MegaSquirt, wideband, and other associated bits have been purchased. Did you guys know Lars is a MS dealer?
This is the Blackstone oil report for Valvoline Synpower 5W30 that was run for 16 track sessions, plus trips to and from the track, and some daily driving. These track sessions were run between September and May of this year, in ambient temperatures ranging from the 40s to the 80s. Blackstone doesn't see anything to be concerned about in here, and neither do I. Honestly, I'm a little surprised the oil held up so well to shear forces. I will run 40W oil of some description in the future, but no harm done so far.
Had a little fun on the track, just as the rain was starting. I decided to see how long I could drive the dry line, before things got too driftaroo. Answer: almost exactly 2 laps. The drive back to the paddock was fun, too.
In other, other, other news, my catch can is working. About 1 teaspoon per session ended up in the can, and there is no longer any evidence of burning oil.
This is basically useless data for me, considering the climate in my state, but it may be useful for others. I need data for an ambient temp of 95, since that is the max temp I will go to the track. We may see temps that high by the end of June, but it has been a mild Spring so far.
In any case, this chart shows how the Koyo VH060650 Hyper-V Series radiator performs in 82F "heat" in a N/A NB2 car without coolant re-route and without oil cooler. This is similar to what I have seen on all warm days. Coolant temps bounce between 201F and 205F.
I don't have a chart for this daily driving, but I do watch the gauge. With ambient temp at 90F and cruising down the highway at 80mph with the A/C on, coolant temps range from 192F to 201F.
Still no idea what the true cooling capacity of this radiator is in hot weather, and/or FI, but it is a very good performer in warm weather in a tracked N/A car at least. Hopefully, I will have more answers soon. I have 3 more track days in June, before I hang it up for the summer.
I have my first track day in a long time towards the end of June at MSR-C. Hoping for mild weather (lol) but I do think the Koyo will be able to handle the normal June temperatures. At least in my car.
If you are going on the 24th with Apex, I will be there as an instructor. I usually get students with RWD cars--especially Miatas. Hmmm...
I think the Koyo will be fine as well. I am hoping to see it blink, so I will have an idea of its upper limit. I know a cooling system is not linear, but even scaling that chart up 13 degrees is still technically OK.
In addition to the 24th, I will be there the mornings of the 16th and 17th. I have to leave before lunch on both days, so I will not be able to subject the car to the afternoon heat. Dammit?
I have a few updates that might be of interest. I guess. Maybe. I wouldn't be, but you might be. Whatever.
So far, I have done absolutely nothing to the car. I have just been driving the hell out of it, free of troubles. But, the heat of the summer is here, and that is obviously a good time to tear into the car and change things, because who doesn't love working in the garage, when it's >100F outside?
Suspension Changes
I'm not changing much here. The setup I have is performing very well for me, right down to the alignment settings. The only change I am making is upgrading the front sway bar to a Racing Beat 1.125". The FM bar I have is fine for most things. Where it fails me is, in trail braking. I brake very late, very hard, and trail brake many corners. The car can be a little looser than I want under trail braking with the FM bar. As I have gotten good at driving this car and become more and more fearless, this little issue has presented itself to me. While I am in there, I hope to install the MMD front sway bar reinforcements and get rid of the kludgey RB one, because I hate those f***ing nuts. I could benefit from a little more spring, but with my bad back and long commute to the track, I'm not going there yet.
Tire Changes
These R888s found a home with me, because of the blowout at TireRack last December. I just heat cycled them out 2 weekends ago, with something on order of 42 track sessions, plus trips to and from the track, plus some session driven by my son as a novice. They are shot with about half tread depth still remaining. Initially, they gave me 1.5G lateral grip and have declined steadily since new. They are only producing around 0.8G now, so it is time to move on. I'm actually astonished at how well they held up. The decline was slow and linear, until they finally fell off a cliff.
The tentative plan is to go back to NT01s as long-lasting, all-around performers, although I will look at others and factor in price. It's always fun to try new tires. Any suggestions?
Other Changes
What "other changes"? There are no other changes. Everything else with the car is working great!
Bolt-Ons
I may have mentioned that the fetching Mrs. Dallas has decided we are building a house on our acreage this year instead of next year, so trubo funds will not be available this year. Dammit. In a forlorn state, and saturated with cheap beer, I made the mistake of trolling Craigslist for Miata parts. The Fates, plus a few Sirens, and maybe the odd spirit of an alcoholic girlfriend of old, paired me with a scary Craigslist dude, who purchased all the typical bolt-ons, then proceeded to total his NB, before he could install them. So, I bought new bolt-ons for 65 cents on the dollar and barely escaped with my life.
There will be more bolt-ons in this thread. Oh yes. There will be bolting on of the bolt-ons. Soon.
The Plan
Starting this weekend, the Super Tramp will be molested by:
Racing Beat header
Roadster Sport 2.5" catted midpipe
K&N intake
Ignition refresh
FM clutch and lightweight flywheel
AEM X-Series wideband
Megasquirt PNP Pro ECU
Dyno tune
Don't judge me on the 1st three. The guy was selling cheap, and I can probably resell for what I paid.
The goal is to get all the N/A whorespower out of the stock engine that I can and enjoy the car that way for another year. Then, do F/I the following year, after we are in the new house, and after I have my 4 car garagecave.
Oh, and I still need to:
To Do List
Brake ducting
Use wire ties for something
Brake lines
Oil cooler before spring (have parts - it's summer)
Coolant re-route before spring (have parts - it's summer)
Remove pesky little coolant lines
Make environmentalists cry
Radiator sealing and ducting before summer
Oil and water temp gauges before summer (it's summer)
Seats and harnesses
Clutch (have parts)
Learn to drive (hopeless endeavor)
ECU (have parts)
Match spec Miata record (never gonna happen)
Trubo! (no funds)
.
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 07-16-2017 at 12:12 PM.
Reason: spellins & grammars
Yeah, it was a huge stroke of good luck, to be able to to take advantage of someone else's bad luck. <-- Bad karma thataway
The plan, such that it is, is to knock it all out over the next 2 months, while it is too hot to be at the track. I'll see how much I can get done working evenings and some mornings on the weekends. I have a dyno from a local operator showing a Miata with a healthy VVT engine making 137 whorespower with bolt-ons and a tune. I want to see how close I can get to that.
Project Super Tramp 2.0 has officially begun!
And, the Fuzz is already on my tail.
.
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 07-16-2017 at 09:32 AM.
If you have a lot of track time and a tire budget, I might suggest something a little less grippy and cheaper, like a rs4 or star spec. They last forever but still have the grip of a r comps from 10-15 years ago. We're a little under the SM record with our hot shoe in an enduro car. 225 rs4s, MSC, aero, and 150hp. Which is probably about what a "spec" Miata engine makes.
05-31-2017, 10:02 PM
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