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Last I posted was due to an issue with a tune back in Colorado. Fast forwarding to this day. I have had it retuned somewhere else and the car ran fine. Moved to North California (between Sacramento and San Francisco) and I am having an issue finding a shop to dyno tune my NB1. Since then I got ITBs installed. The car runs well but I want to get it dialed in and not make it run stupid rich at certain speeds. My question now is: Who can dyno tune my NB1 in Northern California?
Fidanza adjustable exhaust cam gear (1.5 degrees retarded) My Fidanza gears slipped no matter what I did. I finally resorted to tightening them more than the posted tq spec and the bolts stripped/snapped. If you use these replace their crap bolts with good stuff and tq to the bolt mfr's spec
Racing Beat 4-1 exhaust header
Flyin' Miata full exhaust system 2.25" with high flow catalytic converter
Jenvey ITBs
Jenvey carbon fiber horns 60x45MM
RZcrew 45mm mesh filters This style of filter does almost nothing to protect the engine, but actually disrupts the airflow more than a proper pipercross/ITG style filter since you're adding a **** ton of turbulence after you smoothed everything with the velocity stack.
Power Steering delete
A/C Delete
QMax coolant reroute
Supermiata CSF crossflow radiator
MaxG water pump pulley (smaller for faster coolant flow) If you run higher RPMS consistently this can actually cause cavitation if you drive the WP too fast.
NGK platinum spark plugs. .032 gap
Autoexe triple core spark plug wires
Megasquirt PNP2
Just a couple notes from my experience running some of this stuff on my old ITB engine. The rest of your parts list looks primo.
Soot, Thank you for your input. the Fidanza has been fantastic and haven't had any issues with it. As for the filters, this is what I could fit on, the Jenvey pipe filter I have won't fit because of my stupid *** having a coolant reroute.... with borosilicate glass coolant hoses, that and the pipe filter alone has a hole in it so I have to replace it. The only issue I had with the pulley was that it took forever to warm up the engine, however I ran consistent 220 to 228 degrees on track. When I went to the OEM pulley, sure the engine warmed up right when it needed to, but on track I saw around 235 temps on track.
Huh, I haven't been there in a decade, but I'd heard good things. Sorry.
On the cooling front, what have you done as far as airflow management? Do you have an undertray?
--Ian
Ah yes, I should've mentioned that. OEM hood, I do run the LRB Speed undertray, OEM front bumper too, current temps I have seen for under the hood near the throttle bodies was 125 degrees at highest. This was on a 70 degree sunny day too. I know I can lower the temps but my wife won't allow me yet. Two reasons:
My wife wants to spoil the **** out of our son
She grounded me
Besides, this is what I can do for now so I can get ready for track season.
On my itb car with a reroute I was able to run the coolant hose down under the itb’s and use a large utg filter. You can make it work.
Vlad tuned my car. Ran great after he was done.
On my itb car with a reroute I was able to run the coolant hose down under the itb’s and use a large utg filter. You can make it work.
Vlad tuned my car. Ran great after he was done.
My coolant hoses interfere with the pipe filter, I might honestly try a box type that Jenvey has. Either way, that was my stupid *** deciding, "Hur dur, KillerGlass coolant hoses cool, easy diag too!" Side note: The diag part with my coolant hose is actually pretty neat.
Soot, Thank you for your input. the Fidanza has been fantastic and haven't had any issues with it. As for the filters, this is what I could fit on, the Jenvey pipe filter I have won't fit because of my stupid *** having a coolant reroute.... with borosilicate glass coolant hoses, that and the pipe filter alone has a hole in it so I have to replace it. The only issue I had with the pulley was that it took forever to warm up the engine, however I ran consistent 220 to 228 degrees on track. When I went to the OEM pulley, sure the engine warmed up right when it needed to, but on track I saw around 235 temps on track.
Huh, I'm surprised that you're seeing temps that are that high with the rad you have and undertray etc. Might be worth looking into sealing up a bit more ducting, but it sounds like you have it handled.
My Fidanza gears seemed fine at first but I checked them a couple years later and they had slipped almost 3 deg. I only mention it because I've seen others also have the same problem. If they're working for you great, just keep an eye on them haha.
One final side note, when I was running ITBS I 3D printed these spacers that went behind the ITG filter backplate to help me get a longer intake runner length but still have a stack that fit inside the filter. Based on my data unless you have a crazy high revving motor you probably want longer trumpets than most sell (I needed 110mm for my build with AE101 throttle bodies and the Garagestar adapter). These might give you the clearance you need to get around your hose
To get this back on track I've also only heard good things about Vlad's tuning, but can't speak firsthand for him.
This seems odd to me - did you tell them it was going to be street-driven? Maybe a CARB thing...
Due to the new laws in Cali they will refuse to tune any car that has to be street driven, I mean I am "legal" in the state of Colorado, but I track this hard. They were a bit rude, however I understand where they come from. Cali has some jive *** laws.
Huh, I'm surprised that you're seeing temps that are that high with the rad you have and undertray etc. Might be worth looking into sealing up a bit more ducting, but it sounds like you have it handled.
My Fidanza gears seemed fine at first but I checked them a couple years later and they had slipped almost 3 deg. I only mention it because I've seen others also have the same problem. If they're working for you great, just keep an eye on them haha.
One final side note, when I was running ITBS I 3D printed these spacers that went behind the ITG filter backplate to help me get a longer intake runner length but still have a stack that fit inside the filter. Based on my data unless you have a crazy high revving motor you probably want longer trumpets than most sell (I needed 110mm for my build with AE101 throttle bodies and the Garagestar adapter). These might give you the clearance you need to get around your hose
To get this back on track I've also only heard good things about Vlad's tuning, but can't speak firsthand for him.
3D print.... this could be dangerous lol. The spacer is a good idea I think, but I will need to see what I get once I see the power on the dyno.
Not another "need to dyno tune, where?" Thread!!!
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