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now that I have a turbo, what needs to change in tuner studio? MS3Pro

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Old Jan 10, 2025 | 07:06 PM
  #1  
zxkevinxz's Avatar
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Default now that I have a turbo, what needs to change in tuner studio? MS3Pro

I started with a 2003 Miata NB SE.

I added:
MS3PNP Pro, Innovate LC2 on analog 2, Flow Force 624cc injectors, Bosch coils, GM IAT, DW200 fuel pump.
I got it running and idling with the help of @curly (Thank you!).
I then pulled the motor

It doesn't matter but: I replaced all the seals, gaskets and orings, did a coolant reroute, 180* thermostat, timing belt, ATI super damper, water pump, supermiata clutch and flywheel, clutch master and slave, motor mounts, belts, oil catch, upgraded pcv.

What does matter: I installed the 36-2 trigger wheel, mkturbo kit with manifold, turbo, intercooler, blow off, kinugawa .5 bar waste gate actuator, turbosmart manual boost controller (i will go electronic after getting it reliable on manual)

I changed the trigger wheel setting to Miata 36-2 and rising edge.

It starts and idles and sounds good. I know I can change the range on the VE table for boost. Do you guys have recommended values on the load side for this setup? Is there a better way to do this over just manually changing the values? Does anything else need to change before I go do pulls and use autotune? I'm just shooting for reliable, fun boost. I'm not trying to max this thing out.

Why did my log save to excel? I can start it back up and try again.
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2025-01-05_18.29.10.csv (862.6 KB, 15 views)
Old Jan 10, 2025 | 09:45 PM
  #2  
curly's Avatar
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I'd recommend having a little bit of resolution in the lower rows, like 20/25/30/35, then going up by 10-15/row until you get to 100 (atmo). At this point I like to go up by 2-4psi at a time, so 114/127/141/155/169/183/196/210/224(18psi). Always have 1-2 rows higher than what you actually plan on running, so if anything happens with your boost control, it still adds more fuel and continues to reduce timing. AFR table is smaller, but can skip 2-3 of your VE/ign table rows, since you typically run the same AFR at 0-4psi (12-12.2), 5-8(11.7-11.9), and 10+(11.5-11.6).

On your attached tune, your AFR table is ok, you'll have to take a bunch of rows out of the fuel table below 100 to have enough for boosted rows, and your ignition table is terrible. It's super advanced, then goes from naturally aspirated, to 8psi, to 14psi, and then 22psi, all of which are ~10ish degrees too advanced to start with.
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