Just saw this on FB. Interesting. MX-K24? Cut and pasted verbatim from K20A.org. THIS IS NOT ME or 949 Racing
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K24 Miata swap... finally a reality - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum
User name magicDC2

I have been laying low on the forum for the past few months, but I have some exciting news for the K series and Miata communities.

With the help of a few close friends, we are building what we believe to be the first K swapped Miata. Best of all, once we have it up and running (summer of 2013) and have some seat time on track, I plan to make all essential swap parts available for purchase. It's putting the cart before the horse a bit, but just wanted to let everyone know that this is not just a one-off swap, but one I hope can be easily duplicated by fellow racers.

As a K24 integra track car owner, as well as a Miata owner, this swap just needed to happen. Honda reliability, and a 2000 lb. RWD chassis with legendary handling is going to make the perfect track car, or even daily driver.

Best of all, we expect this swap to cost us less than most popular K swaps into the EG, EK, and DC2 chassis, as we are using the stock Miata trans (5 or 6 speed), stock rear diff with Torsen LSD, stock shifter, driveshaft, radiator, axles, etc. As you can see from the pics, the miata has TONS of room for this motor. Although we are mocking this all up with a cheapo k24a1 motor, the eventual plan is a 230+ whp 190 wtq k24a2 setup. Stock bottom end, just some cams and dual valve springs (maybe even use the stock TSX cams). We will be using an S2000 manifold with an adapter plate, which should be ready to install in the next week or so. Clutchmasters is supplying me with a custom flywheel that will allow any Miata clutch kit to be used.

Biggest part of the project is the crossmember mod, which is still in process but will be done this week. While this first car will have a chopped, tubed, and welded stock piece, we plan to do the next car with a full tubular crossmember similar to the V8 swap kits. Next car we do should be a bolt on swap with no welding needed.

I feel this swap has some distinct advantages to other Miata power upgrades. I feel it is a better choice that a turbo setup because we will make more power out of a mildly modified K series build, and it will keep things cool and reliable on track. V8 swaps are cool, but less practical for road racing, they add 200 lbs., and require much more modification and parts that our project. V8 swaps require welding, custom driveshaft, new rear end, axles, and the list goes on. Finally, f20c and f22c swaps have been done, but as we all know, a k24 has much more all motor potential than these motors, it has VTC, and more aftermarket support. Plus using the stock Miata trans simplifies the swap and keeps cost down.

Anyway, enough talk, here are pics of our first few hours of the swap. The goal is to shake this car down at Gingerman Raceway by the end of May 2013. Stay tuned


high compression Type R wannabe Miata engine, lucky to make 150whp.




bye bye


Here is our temporary k24a1 with the lovely K series to Miata trans adapter plate




Jabaay is so handsome



first mock up, looks like hood clearance will be good, although a bit tighter than a stock BP Miata motor.







cross member dropped and cleaned up


this is what we cut out


Jabaay plating up the cross member

test fit




OEM flywheel dust shield, Honda part #21351-PNB-000


Stay tuned for pics of completed crossmember and custom header this week!
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Only something i've been waiting to see for about 4 years now. Looking forward to seeing their progress.

 

MMMmm, 250 plus NA horsepower 9-10k rpms, tastes good!
Will wait for execution and pricing

 

This is happening down the street from where I live actually. Good friends with the jabaays. I can get some photo updates on Monday It's as every bit sweet as you might think. And if anyone can do it and do it right, it is Adam Jabaay.

 

Looks familiar

 

This should be pretty good

 

I wonder if the wife would notice if the K24A7 disappeared from her 2012 Si...

 

pics didn't link over

But I agree with others: FINALLY someone with (what is looking like) the skills and ability to pull something like this off.

Excited to see this unravel. I hope its easier and cheaper than an f20c

 

I'll withhold judgement until I see a completed subframe. If they drop the steering rack to clear the oil pan, that will be a huge negative.

 

I can't believe this...I've been wanting to do a k swap forever. My Honda civic loving friend just traded in his 07 Si (K20) for a brand new Si (K24).
When I looked into this swap, my gripes were: exhaust would have to be moved to passengers side of engine bay. Second gripe was that I'd want to retain factory Miata gauges.

 

Rack is going forward like the s2k swaps.

 

So they are keeping the stock k member however they are also cutting 2 giant slices out of it? Doesnt seem very well thought out.

 

This is pretty awesome and I am surprised this hasn't been done yet on a production scale. There is definitely a market for it and I will strongly be considering it.

 

I wonder how much it would add up to.

 

LOL!! This is what I love about MT.net. Some of you guys are like "omg this is fantastic I want this" and others are like, "what a dumb idea."
My take?
I like the idea of that kind of high reving N/A power, however, I don't like the idea of cutting up the subframe or moving the steering, or all the wiring and fab work that's gonna be involved. This definately isn't a "just bolt this right up" installation. Most of you guys can't even imagine the amount of work this swap would involve.
It's hard to find a happy medium with the miata.
If you want N/A power, you need to do a swap that alters the car in ways that make you wallet bleed very badly and your head hurt.
This is "MiataTurbo.net" because putting a turbocharger on a miata is the most economical way to make good power of a Miata. Sure, I'd love to have my car start up like a factory K series civic and rev to 10 grand, but I'm not willing to shell out the cash and hack my car up to find out.
I am awaiting positive results though.

 

Doing a turbo can be the most economical but not necessarily the most reliable. To do a proper turbo setup is expensive for the crowd that would be looking at this swap as an option instead for their track cars. This could be fairly easy with the right kit and a good wire harness ala rywire or something like it.

 

This is the first build. To get it all up and running and tested, they are using a cut up stock Xmember. Adam is building what he and I talked about for the aborted VQ build of mine, as it is also a front sump motor in this configuration.

 

Id rather have an F series

 

So no turbo for this motor? Seems like a lot of work for something that can be spanked by a miata with a Greddy kit.

Edit: What is the appeal of revving to 10k? I don't see how waiting an extra 3k to reach peak power is a good thing.

Edit: I get the appeal of having a super reliable track motor. Just curious about the choice of motor. Cost vs. power output. Seems like v-band turbo kit would be more economical, and have much more torque.

Edit: Can't wait to see it done, though.

 

Spanked in a single dyno pull or street race? I'm assuming you are not thinking that a frequently autocrossed or tracked car would be better of with an OTS Greddy kit. If so, you are welcome to try and report your results from direct personal experience.

So you would rather reach power at 4000rpm?? You are welcome to build and drive whatever you want. There are other car enthusiasts that actually enjoy a super efficient, simple and light weight N/A motor that revs like a bike.

As has been detailed many times on this forum, if you're a skilled enough driver, it cost near LSx swap money to build a rock solid turbo track Miata. If these guys can pioneer a sub $5K (less engine) K series swap, I'll build one.

My concern is the same as Andrew's: steering geometry. I'm not willing to sacrifice that for the power. I have an EFR 6258 sitting on the shelf waiting to bolt onto a 1.9L BP and I think that will be the best solution for 270-400whp range for a full race car.