So I finally got around to installing my coolant reroute from 949, in it was a block off plate (2 actually) for the coolant neck where the older thermostat used to be. Rather than just block off the hole and leave the neck there, I tore the whole front of the engine apart and blocked it off at the block instead using the appropriate provided block off plate. However, since I'm a 1991, I have 3 sensors for coolant, and I am now a hole short The sensor at the front is the radiator fan activation switch, so I assume that without it, the radiator fan will not activate. Now I could run the wire to ground and install a switch inline allowing me to have switched control of the radiator fan, but I'd much rather have the car do the thinking and activate it when the temp is appropriate. Is there anywhere I can run the sensor inline that would provide the proper temperature coolant to trigger the signal?
Also, there are two lines that feed into (out of?) the coolant neck, one from (to?) the IAC on the manifold, and the other to (from?) what I think is the "oil cooler" mixer dealio on the side of the block. Can I just run these lines together, one long line from the IAC to the mixer? They're sitting on the same tee fitting on the neck, so I assume so, just wanted to make sure.
Finally, unrelated, can someone confirm that the cam gear bolts torque spec is 37-44 ft/lbs?
Thanks gents

 

buy a MS

 

Dimitris finished building mine today, in the meantime are there any options?

 

Water lines to the throttle body can be eliminated. The one from the oil mixer should go to the water pump inlet neck (above the a/c compressor).

 

For now, just ground the wire. It won't hurt anything for a few weeks if you have an MS going in soon.

Otherwise, drill and tap a hole in the block of plate on the front of the engine? That is what we did on my friend's car.

 

Without the water lines are the air valve and IACV still operational? Should I just go ahead and remove all that as well?

The two lines in question (cut)




This is the water pump inlet, I believe. Not seeing an appropriate placement on this side for the line to go into, maybe my terminology is messed up.






So deleting the coolant lines into here (2 on top) is easy enough, but what about the one going into the block?

 

Air valve needs coolant to work (it is a wax motor). IACV won't care.

I just ran a line from the IACV, along where the silver breather tube on the front of the valve cover was, and then down to the coolant mixing manifold.

 

Wait the IACV doesn't need coolant flowing to it to work properly? I have the relocation kit and I hate having two extra long coolant lines running through the engine bay.

 

of course not

 

Pulled air valve and IACV off, going to make block off plates. going to route a hose from the "IACV to block" line pictured to the coolant mixing manifold. Seem like a reasonable solution as far as coolant lines go?

 

Yes, but your cold idle and start up is going to suck without the IACV. Why did you delete it?

The air valve is nice to have, I left it on mine even with the MS runnjng things.

 

now youre just dumb.

and by dumb i mean retarded.

 

They don't seem necessary to keep if they're being bypassed anyway. I don't have A/C or P/S, so my only extra idle load is headlights, and that dips my idle significantly anyway, so I kind of figured they weren't working. I don't want non-working things to stay in the engine bay. If they still perform a function, that's a different story. The air valve is going away regardless because with no coolant lines it's useless. Coolant to IACV is just de-icing, right? but with no extra loads would it even effect my idle? Wouldn't a manually set idle be more stable and consistent (read: reliable). I still have the issue of where the coolant lines go, which I think you answered, but I want to confirm, a line should go from the top left of the head, marked "IACV to block" in the picture to the coolant mixing manifold/water pump inlet on the lower right side? This would remove the coolant lines from the air valve and the IACV, essentially bypassing coolant from any idle control component?

 

That's a lot of words. IACV is good for making your car idle well. You should probably keep it.

 

If I were in your shoes, I'd either put the coolant neck back on, drill & tap the block off plate at the front of the head, or just wait for the MS to show up. You can just splice the two coolant lines together if you eliminate the coolant neck. Don't eliminate the iacv and iv.
if you don't want to do a timing belt job again, you could probably use a Dremel to cut some reliefs into the metal cover with the cam timing marks on it. Can't easily get at the bolts for the coolant neck otherwise.

 

It'd be more stable and consistent if temperature remained constant, your fuel was exactly the same amount every time, barometric pressure never changed, etc. But this stuff changes. You want an IACV.

 

Holy **** just cap the lines. It's not hard. One is source the other is return. Figure it out. Enjoy **** idle.

 

So how do people with non-stock intake manifolds and throttle bodies idle?

 

there's not many of those people. and those ones are usually smart enough to figure it out.