fan activation without thermoswitch
#1
fan activation without thermoswitch
So I finally got around to installing my coolant reroute from 949, in it was a block off plate (2 actually) for the coolant neck where the older thermostat used to be. Rather than just block off the hole and leave the neck there, I tore the whole front of the engine apart and blocked it off at the block instead using the appropriate provided block off plate. However, since I'm a 1991, I have 3 sensors for coolant, and I am now a hole short The sensor at the front is the radiator fan activation switch, so I assume that without it, the radiator fan will not activate. Now I could run the wire to ground and install a switch inline allowing me to have switched control of the radiator fan, but I'd much rather have the car do the thinking and activate it when the temp is appropriate. Is there anywhere I can run the sensor inline that would provide the proper temperature coolant to trigger the signal?
Also, there are two lines that feed into (out of?) the coolant neck, one from (to?) the IAC on the manifold, and the other to (from?) what I think is the "oil cooler" mixer dealio on the side of the block. Can I just run these lines together, one long line from the IAC to the mixer? They're sitting on the same tee fitting on the neck, so I assume so, just wanted to make sure.
Finally, unrelated, can someone confirm that the cam gear bolts torque spec is 37-44 ft/lbs?
Thanks gents
Also, there are two lines that feed into (out of?) the coolant neck, one from (to?) the IAC on the manifold, and the other to (from?) what I think is the "oil cooler" mixer dealio on the side of the block. Can I just run these lines together, one long line from the IAC to the mixer? They're sitting on the same tee fitting on the neck, so I assume so, just wanted to make sure.
Finally, unrelated, can someone confirm that the cam gear bolts torque spec is 37-44 ft/lbs?
Thanks gents
#6
Without the water lines are the air valve and IACV still operational? Should I just go ahead and remove all that as well?
The two lines in question (cut)
This is the water pump inlet, I believe. Not seeing an appropriate placement on this side for the line to go into, maybe my terminology is messed up.
So deleting the coolant lines into here (2 on top) is easy enough, but what about the one going into the block?
The two lines in question (cut)
This is the water pump inlet, I believe. Not seeing an appropriate placement on this side for the line to go into, maybe my terminology is messed up.
So deleting the coolant lines into here (2 on top) is easy enough, but what about the one going into the block?
#13
They don't seem necessary to keep if they're being bypassed anyway. I don't have A/C or P/S, so my only extra idle load is headlights, and that dips my idle significantly anyway, so I kind of figured they weren't working. I don't want non-working things to stay in the engine bay. If they still perform a function, that's a different story. The air valve is going away regardless because with no coolant lines it's useless. Coolant to IACV is just de-icing, right? but with no extra loads would it even effect my idle? Wouldn't a manually set idle be more stable and consistent (read: reliable). I still have the issue of where the coolant lines go, which I think you answered, but I want to confirm, a line should go from the top left of the head, marked "IACV to block" in the picture to the coolant mixing manifold/water pump inlet on the lower right side? This would remove the coolant lines from the air valve and the IACV, essentially bypassing coolant from any idle control component?
#15
If I were in your shoes, I'd either put the coolant neck back on, drill & tap the block off plate at the front of the head, or just wait for the MS to show up. You can just splice the two coolant lines together if you eliminate the coolant neck. Don't eliminate the iacv and iv.
if you don't want to do a timing belt job again, you could probably use a Dremel to cut some reliefs into the metal cover with the cam timing marks on it. Can't easily get at the bolts for the coolant neck otherwise.
if you don't want to do a timing belt job again, you could probably use a Dremel to cut some reliefs into the metal cover with the cam timing marks on it. Can't easily get at the bolts for the coolant neck otherwise.
#16
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It'd be more stable and consistent if temperature remained constant, your fuel was exactly the same amount every time, barometric pressure never changed, etc. But this stuff changes. You want an IACV.
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07-05-2014 06:10 PM