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Let's talk Water to Air!

Old 09-27-2018, 07:08 PM
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Default Let's talk Water to Air!

So I've been looking into cooling solutions and other things I can do to improve my supercharger setup. I feel pretty limited with the older eaton kit seeing as how I can't upgrade the SC pulley. I'll probably do the 150mm Crank overlay pulley to add at least a few PSI.

I was looking into air to air intercooler setups but it turns out there's quite a bit of boost loss through all that tubing. So someone recommended water to air setups. Does anyone happen to know where I can get my hands on a JR water to air tube setup? That seems like it'd be ideal. Someone also directed me to Air to Water Intercooler

Does anyone run a water to air setup? What should I be looking for?

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Old 09-27-2018, 07:41 PM
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going through this right now

I bought the IC unit off aliexpress

was 80 and change delivered

Ordered the 1/2npt barbs from frozen boost (3 or 4 90s, and a straight one) and a few T clamps. Bought the silicone hose port thing to mount the IAT sensor post IC, if I can;t get that to work (ie if the sensor is to high up and out of airstream) will tap into the dummy TB, although my concern for that is heat soak. also bought a pump mount from frozenboost.

Have an LED light bar wiring harness and bought an NB fog light switch for power

Bought 25' silicone 3/4" hose.

In my case I have a welded cast 90 on the end of my dummy throttle bosy pointing across my engine bay, so I am planning a 2.5" coupler, either staggered (HPS) HPS High Temp 4-ply Reinforced 2.5" ID x 3" Long Silicone Offset Coupler Hose Black 63mm to get me some more room back from the engine or straight 2.5

honestly, if not for that welded on 90 BS I'd be considering air/air but here we are.

the other end, I ordered a vibrant 2.5" to 2.75" ally reducer, will bead roll that. hump hose to SC and then a 90 to the IC. I have the reducer, waiting on the hump and the bead roller. BAsically want to see what that looks like then see what my options are, if that is a fail, will try a silicone 2.75 to 2.5 and maybe an ally 90.

So really winging the hoses, see what looks good where.

For reservoir, I have moved the washer to a capuccino setup

will mount reservoir, and pump under it, maybe using nutserts. planning bosch cobra. Looks like the wiring harness for that is a bosch ev-1 injector harness. will buy plug from ballenger and wire with 14ga.

reservoir, either an ebay washer bottle reservoir, can get a universal setup for about 20, or maybe a chinesium blingtastic thing. local adance auto for about 20 have a 2.5qt radiator overflow resrvoir with mount for about 20 bucks and no holes for washer pumps so may be the best option. I am not near a pick a part wrecker to be able to pick thru used car stuff.

another thought was an ABS washer bottle, mounted in front of FL wheel, but the water lever will be higher in the IC, and the pump will need to push up into the IC and I'm not sure about head presssure and all that jazz, so figured I'd mount the pump and bottle up high.

Heat exchanger am holding off on, will pull bumper and see what I can fit. most are 24-27" on egay, however cxracing has a narrower one that may be better, need to see what kind of room I have and what I can mount it to. searched online for motorcylce radiators with 0.75 ends but found nothing appropriate

also considered the ebay mazda rx3/4/5/7 oil coolers, but most have some weird thread form on them, or -10 and would then need to adapt -10 to 3/4 barb and by the time I buy adapters to do that it would prolly be like 60-70 bucks and with the oil cooler be at about 150 so may as well buy one that already suits.

So yeah, I have a pile of parts that is growing but nothing installed.

poached some ideas from this guy. Miata Build Thread

Interested in other ideas too so please post away
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Old 09-27-2018, 11:28 PM
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FYI, You don't really lose that much with an A/A. Comparing pressure alone at the inlet and outlet of an IC is not appropriate. You need to consider density ratio, which incorporates temperature. It gets even more complicated when you account for velocity.
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Old 09-27-2018, 11:42 PM
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It's really dumb, esp when you consider how easy it is on these cars to route a proper fmic.
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Old 09-28-2018, 12:41 AM
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A/W is great for drag cars where bags and bags of ice are used to get sub-ambient air temps, or for cars where you literally cannot package an A/A setup.

We are neither of those.

High-Performance Turbo Specialists - Sunnyvale, CA - Email us!

Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 09-28-2018, 03:38 PM
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I have no experience with forced induction or water to air intercoolers on bp motors. I do however have experience with r53 mini coopers which had m45 super chargers and water to air heat exchangers. Short answer to your question, nope, absolutely not. They are heavier, provide less cooling capacity in the real world, and heat soak about 200% faster then you think it's going to. They suck, does not want.
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Old 09-28-2018, 07:46 PM
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I run it on my m45 1.6 and it worked really well, it is true that is a heavier more complex system, my opinion is that on a sc where you have a huge bolume of air between the throttle plate and the intake valve reducing air volume of the system is important, you could also use a dual tb settup but that is probably more complex still.
i never had heat soaking issues even on track running 30 min sessions or engine overheating like some do when choking the bumper opening with an aa ic.

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Old 10-01-2018, 02:38 AM
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Search for images under keywords "miata m45 diy intercooler". You'll get TDR pics first, but you'll see DIY setups in the search. it can be done pretty cheaply with a/a.

Just consider:
1. You want minimal increases to throttled volume. Do this with Ic piping *over* the radiator, rather than *around* like you see in most Turbo setups. this is usually just two 90* pipes, potentially tilting the top of the rad back a bit, or cutting some holes on the chassis just prior to the radiator. Some Turbo setups do this too, but it's easier with this Sc since the outlet is higher.

2. Get the smallest, appropriately sized IC for your power. it will help with response and keep idle issues in to a minimum.

I'd consider a larger IC only if you wanted to reuse it for a Turbo build down the road.
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