I had to use channel locks on those little ********. They are super soft.

Also, whatever the throttle body gaskets for the 1.6s are made from is the worst thing in the world to get back off. That was the longest and worst part of the whole install.

Also also, you want a one way check valve in the 3/4" line for the IACV. They leak boost. I just used a short piece of hose, a one way valve and a little K&N filter on mine rather than run the hose across the engine bay. Since you are running a MAP based ECU it won't care since the AFM gone.

 

Here's another question, is the cone nose pulley on the older eaton/sebring chargers non-upgradable to any of the TDR pulleys?

 

If the pulley goes around the nose, it is not. If it sits in front of the nose, it is.

You can still use the crank overlay pulley though. But I wouldn't without an intercooler and some tuning experiance under your belt (unless you are taking it somewhere to get tuned, then do whatever).

 

Yeah, a friend was saying these get very hot, esp without an intercooler. I'll probably also looking into the TDR header heat **** to keep temps down.

 

Stock heat sheild worked ok for me, but mine was in good shape.

I was still seeing intake temps upwords of 140-150F after long pulls with the over drive pulley though. 8.5-9psi in the manifold. Would come back down to ambient fairly quickly.

 

 

I see why you are having problems with the brackets. You have a 1.6 kit and a 1.8 engine.

Do you have the extra piece that mounts to the manifold studs? Also, your 1.8 throttle body may not fit on the supercharger inlet (unless you do have a 1.8 seebring kit, but those are super rare).

Bracket difference between 1.6 and 1.8 below (I had both on hand for a bit).

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5267d8329c.jpg

 

Well, I was told it was a 1.8. we shall see. But yes, it had an extra bracket.

 

Oh, if it has the bracket that goes to the two exhaust manifold studs you are good to go.

 

Everything X_25 says is on point.

Is that the gold, triangle shaped one? Wasn't sure if the Sebring kits had this. If so, just be sure to mount the SC, nuts/bolts, and supporting bracket in such a way that this sees as little "bending" stress as possible. This has the potential to crack and since out ot production, you'll be kicking yourself.

If you want more boost, stick with the crank overlay pulley, rather than going with a smaller SC nose pulley, anyway. You have to make a pretty sizable jump in psi, but the smaller nose pulleys, with a static tensioner, meant less surface area for the belt and often led to belt slip. I was able to use smaller SC pulleys, but I could only reach potential boost if I babied the throttle. Stabbing the gas pedal would cause the belt to come loose. Check this at idle by watching the SC nose pulley and having someone stab the throttle.

Gary @ TDR can help on the overlay.
https://trackdogracing.com/crankoverlaypulley.aspx

Side note, if you're enterprising, you could try looking at the one guy who did attempt an auto-tensioner set up in the future. Only necessary if you're still seeing belt slip.
M.Net M45 Auto-Tensioner Thread

 

I had a BRP tensioner on mine (basically the same as the one TDR sells). And with the overlay pulley and 62.5mm nose pulley (on a later supercharger. I had a 1.8 JRSC kit and a 1.6 Seebring kit that I mashed parts together from, and I think the JRSC kit came with some of the MP62 BRP kit stuff? it was a mutt, see my build thread) I had no belt slip issues. But I ran the belt stupid tight. Could make 11psi at redline with that on a 1.6. Though it was closer to 9.5-10 through the rest of the range with the intercooler.

 

So I ran into a huge issue with the belt. It so close to completion but the belts are touching in the tensioner bracket.... Any idea why it might be doing this and how to fix it?

 

Get a shorter belt for sure, these kits were pretty terrible for mounting belts easily and there wasn't a lot of room for adjusting the pulleys. if you arrived at the belt size, because mounting them was a PITA, there are a few ways to work around this:
1. Buy the TDR belt tensioner. it'll give you more room for tightening or slack. i suppose you could just elongate the holes on your current bracket, if you could use star washers or a pillow block and ensure it doesn't slip.
2. Deal with the current setup and a smaller belt. tricks to getting this on are:
a) put the belt on with both plastic pulleys loose, then tighten the pulleys.
b) Get the belt mounted on all pulleys, but if you can't get it around the SC pulley, get at least one rib on there. then rotate the crank pulley, so you can manually finesse the belt on the SC pulley.

I've used both methods A and B. preferred B only because it required less tools in an emergency.

 

Belt too long

 

Yeah, you need to find a belt that you can juuuuuuuust get on with a fight. I used the put one rib partly on the SC pulley and then rotate the crank method. If I used a belt that went on easy, I ran out of adjustment, even with the upgraded BRP tensioner.