Buy a super charger kit and ecu - check
Install kit and ecu - check
Tune car - Naaa i just DD it so tuning doesn't matter.

 

Ok, get your reaction now.
But i never said that tuning is does not matter.

Actually she was tuned by a profesional. Excapt with all the problems i had ( the broken pin) i had somehow managed to loose that map.

So i put a map on that i still had from december. It works, but is far from perfect. Since she was only repaired on saterday, i have not yet had a change to look at it. (which i will do asap!)

As i am new to ms, i am very pleases with the dyno, so i now no that something is wrong. Also very pleased with the comments from 18Psi. Very helpfull.as any tips are welkom at this point...

But what i did notice after my short drive 10 min ago, is that she drove rich on normal throttle and lean on full throttle. Also the guy at the dyno told me the 440cc injectors are to small, that is why she might be so lean on full throttle.
I also know that the original kennebell setup was with 550cc injector, and the guy who sold me the kit send e 440cc injector. Does that make any sence?

I do know that i have some homework to do.

 

You could probably hit 200 with fuel and timing tuning and the larger injectors.

 

440cc at less than 200whp should be still more than enough.
You just need to tune the fuel VE table. Best bet is to log, open in megalogviewer and run ve anaylzer if you don't have autotune.

 

you dont thinki would also need that vvt controller for that?
I am going to buy some 550cc injectors and have it tuned by a professional. but i need to save a little...

Any tips on what 550cc injector is best to take?

 

going to do that on saterday, so i am sure she runs fine with dially driving. Or is autotune also possible with full load / throttle?

We did try to give it more fuel at full throttle, but it made no difference. that is way the dyno guy said i need larger injectors....

 

I think you should save your money on injectors and just start tuning it yourself. Do you have any data logs of the current tune?

 

do you have a data log of this?
data log and tune

 

no data logs at the moment. i will do some runs tommorow or the day after and post them.

 

rich in cruise and lean in boost means map is garbage.
also your 440's shouldnt be holding you back at all. at least not yet. start adding fuel and when nothing happens no matter how much you add that's when you know your fuel system is tapped out.

If you end up getting injectors, get Bosch EV14 ones like Five-O or Injector Dynamics. They are much better than the shitty RX7 and RC garbage

 

just daily it while logging, no need to go into boost to get your cruise tuned in better.

once you get cruise in better you can tell easier if you are running out of fuel up top or not.

 

i also have fuel enrichment enabled. should i turn this off? i now i need to while tuning. but afterwards, do i keep it off?

 

post up your tune

 

And start reading the MEGASQUIRT section. Seriously.

 

Your AFR is fucked. Your motor is going to last one week. Congratulations you and your frands fail at tuning.

If you are going to tune like a caveman, at least tune for richness, not hella ******* LEAN

 

Obviously fae didn't read this post.

Car just needs to be retuned before going hard on it again.

 

You don't need a BOV with twin TBs. When the TB in front of the s/c closes, there is no air to vent. If you run one TB in the original location/on the IM, you should use a BOV. If you're running on a MAP sensor, you won't have the idle droop/throttle volume issues that many have since they run MAF. I know I ran a JRSC with FMIC with the TB in front of the s/c with no problems on my 96...but I also used either 1.75" ID or 2" piping which reduced the volume between the MAF and the TB. On my 99, I also had a JRSC but with the TB in the orig. location, I DID have some idle issues and tuning was crappy because of the MAF. If you are running MAP, you are much better off and don't need dual TBs.

 

Not entirely true. The TB close together and compressor output, although diminished, is still trapped. If I lift off the throttle in boost there's enough pressure differential across the s/c to feel the momentary increase in engine braking.

 

This is the tune i used with the dyno:
Dec-2010.msq

This is the tune i am going to try tonight (adjusted warmup enrichment and fuel VE table).
Adjusted_fuel_and_warmup.msq

This is the base map i got:
Basemap.msq

Use "save link as" to save




@BarbyCar
So the BOV is needed right? I do have a bypass valve on the SC as well.

 

1. Get a laptop to connect to the squirt.
2. Download and pay for the full version of TunerStudio
3. Set your VE targets to anything but killer lean (like now..)
4. Go drive and have fun, and press "burn" from time to time.

Running at 14+ of A/F is gonna kill your engine in a matter of days if you try to have fun in it.