1.6 to 1.8 clutch and flywheel upgrade
#24
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
If you can't understand why a larger clutch is better, especially in an application when we are throwing much more torque at our drivetrain, then you really don't deserve to be on this site...
But like Failure said: All things being equal, the larger the diameter clutch, the larger the surface area, and the greater the holding capacity. That means, without any additional pedal effort, you can hold more torque just from the diameter size alone.
The last thing you want is to hit 15psi, only to start slipping your clutch at 4K--the automotive equivalent of limp-dick syndrome. The 1.6L clutch is undersized; mazda increased it from 200mm to 225mm with the addition of only 20hp and 200lbs of weight. If you want to increase the holding capacity of a 1.6L sized clutch to even hold 250rwhp, you must go with aggressive disc material, pucked discs, and/or very very heavy pressure plates. Or you can bump the size of the disc, and have plenty of options for clutches with minimal pedal effort that hold well over 300rwhp and feel very similar to a stock clutch.
But like Failure said: All things being equal, the larger the diameter clutch, the larger the surface area, and the greater the holding capacity. That means, without any additional pedal effort, you can hold more torque just from the diameter size alone.
The last thing you want is to hit 15psi, only to start slipping your clutch at 4K--the automotive equivalent of limp-dick syndrome. The 1.6L clutch is undersized; mazda increased it from 200mm to 225mm with the addition of only 20hp and 200lbs of weight. If you want to increase the holding capacity of a 1.6L sized clutch to even hold 250rwhp, you must go with aggressive disc material, pucked discs, and/or very very heavy pressure plates. Or you can bump the size of the disc, and have plenty of options for clutches with minimal pedal effort that hold well over 300rwhp and feel very similar to a stock clutch.
#25
If you can't understand why a larger clutch is better, especially in an application when we are throwing much more torque at our drivetrain, then you really don't deserve to be on this site...
But like Failure said: All things being equal, the larger the diameter clutch, the larger the surface area, and the greater the holding capacity. That means, without any additional pedal effort, you can hold more torque just from the diameter size alone.
The last thing you want is to hit 15psi, only to start slipping your clutch at 4K--the automotive equivalent of limp-dick syndrome. The 1.6L clutch is undersized; mazda increased it from 200mm to 225mm with the addition of only 20hp and 200lbs of weight. If you want to increase the holding capacity of a 1.6L sized clutch to even hold 250rwhp, you must go with aggressive disc material, pucked discs, and/or very very heavy pressure plates. Or you can bump the size of the disc, and have plenty of options for clutches with minimal pedal effort that hold well over 300rwhp and feel very similar to a stock clutch.
But like Failure said: All things being equal, the larger the diameter clutch, the larger the surface area, and the greater the holding capacity. That means, without any additional pedal effort, you can hold more torque just from the diameter size alone.
The last thing you want is to hit 15psi, only to start slipping your clutch at 4K--the automotive equivalent of limp-dick syndrome. The 1.6L clutch is undersized; mazda increased it from 200mm to 225mm with the addition of only 20hp and 200lbs of weight. If you want to increase the holding capacity of a 1.6L sized clutch to even hold 250rwhp, you must go with aggressive disc material, pucked discs, and/or very very heavy pressure plates. Or you can bump the size of the disc, and have plenty of options for clutches with minimal pedal effort that hold well over 300rwhp and feel very similar to a stock clutch.
#26
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
The 1.6L ACT XT PP is as heavy as your mom and not fun to daily; especially for the member's here that have sore knees.
* the highest rated ACT 1.6L kit is rated at 270tq.
Fun fact: One of the worst clutches I've ever driven on was the 1.6L ACT XT SS.
And since you're suggesting the 1.6L XT holds over 350tq (hint: it doesn't*), then it has a pucked disc and it's even more abominable and the idea that you'd ever suggest to another human being suggests to me how much you hate other people's well-being.Fun fact: One of the other worst clutches I've ever driven on was: any pucked clutch.
The 1.8L HD SS, light pressure plate, street disc, is rated at 245tq; you need a lot of boost to start slipping one of those and it drives just like a stock clutch without any extra effort.Fun fact: One of the better clutches I've driven on, and own, is the 1.8L ACT HD.
More boost makes the car measurably faster as well.* the highest rated ACT 1.6L kit is rated at 270tq.
Last edited by Braineack; 04-30-2014 at 02:46 PM.
#27
If you can't understand why a larger clutch is better, especially in an application when we are throwing much more torque at our drivetrain, then you really don't deserve to be on this site...
But like Failure said: All things being equal, the larger the diameter clutch, the larger the surface area, and the greater the holding capacity. That means, without any additional pedal effort, you can hold more torque just from the diameter size alone.
The last thing you want is to hit 15psi, only to start slipping your clutch at 4K--the automotive equivalent of limp-dick syndrome. The 1.6L clutch is undersized; mazda increased it from 200mm to 225mm with the addition of only 20hp and 200lbs of weight. If you want to increase the holding capacity of a 1.6L sized clutch to even hold 250rwhp, you must go with aggressive disc material, pucked discs, and/or very very heavy pressure plates. Or you can bump the size of the disc, and have plenty of options for clutches with minimal pedal effort that hold well over 300rwhp and feel very similar to a stock clutch.
But like Failure said: All things being equal, the larger the diameter clutch, the larger the surface area, and the greater the holding capacity. That means, without any additional pedal effort, you can hold more torque just from the diameter size alone.
The last thing you want is to hit 15psi, only to start slipping your clutch at 4K--the automotive equivalent of limp-dick syndrome. The 1.6L clutch is undersized; mazda increased it from 200mm to 225mm with the addition of only 20hp and 200lbs of weight. If you want to increase the holding capacity of a 1.6L sized clutch to even hold 250rwhp, you must go with aggressive disc material, pucked discs, and/or very very heavy pressure plates. Or you can bump the size of the disc, and have plenty of options for clutches with minimal pedal effort that hold well over 300rwhp and feel very similar to a stock clutch.
Yeah, I got the SuperMiata 1.6 clutch for my 1.8 and am more than happy with it.
Oh snap.
#30
The 1.6L ACT XT PP is as heavy as your mom and not fun to daily; especially for the member's here that have sore knees.
* the highest rated ACT 1.6L kit is rated at 270tq.
Fun fact: One of the worst clutches I've ever driven on was the 1.6L ACT XT SS.
And since you're suggesting the 1.6L XT holds over 350tq (hint: it doesn't*), then it has a pucked disc and it's even more abominable and the idea that you'd ever suggest to another human being suggests to me how much you hate other people's well-being.Fun fact: One of the other worst clutches I've ever driven on was: any pucked clutch.
The 1.8L HD SS, light pressure plate, street disc, is rated at 245tq; you need a lot of boost to start slipping one of those and it drives just like a stock clutch without any extra effort.Fun fact: One of the better clutches I've driven on, and own, is the 1.8L ACT HD.
More boost makes the car measurably faster as well.* the highest rated ACT 1.6L kit is rated at 270tq.
#32
The thing that makes the car most annoying to daily drive isnt the clutch. Far and away it is the AWR motor mounts!
FWIW the Spec clutch I tried was freekin horible. It had a soft pedal but engagement that could be adjusted further off the floor but it was on/off and Juddery as hell. nearly impossible to smoothly launch and it wouldn't hold my torque even though it was rated higher than the ACT.
Bob
#33
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
Spec clutches are a joke.
I personally just dont like heavy pressure plates and pucked discs and a especially a combination of both.
I had pretty much the same clutch you have now, and I really hated it. It was fatiguing and coupled with the lack of power steering made daily duty very straining and annoying. The puck disc required that caution/effort/focus be put on the launching technique at each stop light, else it drive through intersections like you're trying for 8 seconds on a wild bull.
I've had 4-5 different clutch kits on my car, and driven numerous setups and my favorite are ones like the FM2 that has just a touch more pedal effort than stock but that's still transparent to the fact that it can hold all the power your throw at it.
If the car was a track car, I wouldn't care like at all.
And yes, solid mounts are crazy. how many random screws/nuts/bolts do you find in your car on a weekly basis?
I personally just dont like heavy pressure plates and pucked discs and a especially a combination of both.
I had pretty much the same clutch you have now, and I really hated it. It was fatiguing and coupled with the lack of power steering made daily duty very straining and annoying. The puck disc required that caution/effort/focus be put on the launching technique at each stop light, else it drive through intersections like you're trying for 8 seconds on a wild bull.
I've had 4-5 different clutch kits on my car, and driven numerous setups and my favorite are ones like the FM2 that has just a touch more pedal effort than stock but that's still transparent to the fact that it can hold all the power your throw at it.
If the car was a track car, I wouldn't care like at all.
And yes, solid mounts are crazy. how many random screws/nuts/bolts do you find in your car on a weekly basis?
#34
Spec clutches are a joke.
I personally just dont like heavy pressure plates and pucked discs and a especially a combination of both.
I had pretty much the same clutch you have now, and I really hated it. It was fatiguing and coupled with the lack of power steering made daily duty very straining and annoying. The puck disc required that caution/effort/focus be put on the launching technique at each stop light, else it drive through intersections like you're trying for 8 seconds on a wild bull.
I've had 4-5 different clutch kits on my car, and driven numerous setups and my favorite are ones like the FM2 that has just a touch more pedal effort than stock but that's still transparent to the fact that it can hold all the power your throw at it.
If the car was a track car, I wouldn't care like at all.
And yes, solid mounts are crazy. how many random screws/nuts/bolts do you find in your car on a weekly basis?
I personally just dont like heavy pressure plates and pucked discs and a especially a combination of both.
I had pretty much the same clutch you have now, and I really hated it. It was fatiguing and coupled with the lack of power steering made daily duty very straining and annoying. The puck disc required that caution/effort/focus be put on the launching technique at each stop light, else it drive through intersections like you're trying for 8 seconds on a wild bull.
I've had 4-5 different clutch kits on my car, and driven numerous setups and my favorite are ones like the FM2 that has just a touch more pedal effort than stock but that's still transparent to the fact that it can hold all the power your throw at it.
If the car was a track car, I wouldn't care like at all.
And yes, solid mounts are crazy. how many random screws/nuts/bolts do you find in your car on a weekly basis?
Drove the car to the grocery store yesterday with 275 Hoosiers mounted on 15X11 wheels. The grip levels aren’t too compatible with hauling groceries I found.
#35
Help
Hi!
Sorry for reviving the thread...
I have a NA 1993 1.6 and coming soon add this upgrade 1.6 to 1.8 clutch and flywheel - (and JC m45,WI,Megasquirt, etc, etc...)
I would like to have your opinion about two options :
1)
Exedy Clutch Kit Fidanza Flywheel 90 05 Mazda Miata 1 6L 1 8L mazdaspeed Turbo | eBay
500$
2)
Exedy XTR Stage 2 Clutch Kit 94 05 Mazda MX 5 Miata 1 8L 04 05 mazdaspeed Turbo | eBay
FX 4140 Chromoly Flywheel 94 05 Mazda Miata MX 5 1 8L 2004 05 mazdaspeed Turbo | eBay
Total
330$
Greetings from Venezuela
Sorry for reviving the thread...
I have a NA 1993 1.6 and coming soon add this upgrade 1.6 to 1.8 clutch and flywheel - (and JC m45,WI,Megasquirt, etc, etc...)
I would like to have your opinion about two options :
1)
Exedy Clutch Kit Fidanza Flywheel 90 05 Mazda Miata 1 6L 1 8L mazdaspeed Turbo | eBay
500$
2)
Exedy XTR Stage 2 Clutch Kit 94 05 Mazda MX 5 Miata 1 8L 04 05 mazdaspeed Turbo | eBay
FX 4140 Chromoly Flywheel 94 05 Mazda Miata MX 5 1 8L 2004 05 mazdaspeed Turbo | eBay
Total
330$
Greetings from Venezuela
#36
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
no.
ACT HD, Flyin Miata, or 949 Clutches only.
although your JRSC wont have enough power to really push the limits of even a stock clutch. The Exedy Stage 1 is fine. The Stage 2 is absolutely retarded for a street car.
ACT HD, Flyin Miata, or 949 Clutches only.
although your JRSC wont have enough power to really push the limits of even a stock clutch. The Exedy Stage 1 is fine. The Stage 2 is absolutely retarded for a street car.
#37
Braineack
OK!
My option could be (1.6 to 1.8) :
1)
Exedy Clutch Pro Kit 1994 2005 Mazda Miata MX 5 1 8L mazdaspeed Turbo | eBay
and
1.1)
94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 Mazda MX 5 Miata 1 8L Manual Standard Flywheel BP | eBay
2)
Or Stock stage 1 Exedy 1.6 (200mm) is enough for my Little JRSC ?
- I hope 140-150 hp max on my setup...
no.
ACT HD, Flyin Miata, or 949 Clutches only.
although your JRSC wont have enough power to really push the limits of even a stock clutch. The Exedy Stage 1 is fine. The Stage 2 is absolutely retarded for a street car.
ACT HD, Flyin Miata, or 949 Clutches only.
although your JRSC wont have enough power to really push the limits of even a stock clutch. The Exedy Stage 1 is fine. The Stage 2 is absolutely retarded for a street car.
My option could be (1.6 to 1.8) :
1)
Exedy Clutch Pro Kit 1994 2005 Mazda Miata MX 5 1 8L mazdaspeed Turbo | eBay
and
1.1)
94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 Mazda MX 5 Miata 1 8L Manual Standard Flywheel BP | eBay
2)
Or Stock stage 1 Exedy 1.6 (200mm) is enough for my Little JRSC ?
- I hope 140-150 hp max on my setup...