OP - did you get that alignment done? I'm curious how you like it as I also have the FM suspension package. Currently I'm at pretty much textbook FM numbers:

Front
camber = -1
toe = 1/16" total
caster = max (I think it was 4.5)

Rear
camber = -1.5
toe = 1/16" total

Honestly I've been pretty happy with how it's performed so far, I just did my first track event last weekend and after some fine tuning to soften up the rear the car performed beautifully on the twisties (but I don't have a whole lot of experience to know if it was going around the track as well as I think it was, or if I was just having too much fun to notice otherwise).

 

Unless you were very low and trying to get minimal camber that is just the tech being lazy. I got exactly to the .01 on all my specs I asked for when I went to the local miata performance shop for an alignment.

 

I was told my adjustments were "maxed out" and a right front adjustment bolt was "seized", crazy cause I could adjust it myself but don't have any type of alignment stuff to do so. Are those current specs decent enough for a street car?

 

Should be decent, understeery, depending on the rest of the setup. I would say he maxed them out at the minimum adjustment to get that. What is your ride height between the fender and the center of the wheel?

 

Right now I am 12" on stock wheels/tires

 

Yeah thats the min. You should be able to dial in somewhere near 2.5* if you wanted to.

 

Basically looking for a street setup, I won't track it as much as I would like since I am going to college. So if thats a "decent" street setup I should be fine

 

My new idea. Camber is about 90% of front in the rear and I'll put the rear bar on soft. Then maybe put the front bar on stiffest to see what happens. Should be tire friendly and handle decent in the twisty bits, if I ever find a decent road around here.


Front camber: -1.4°
Caster: >3ish°--no p/s and would like to keep it low speed friendly
Front total toe: 0"

Rear camber : -1.2°
Rear total toe: 0"

 

I wouldn't run 0 toe on a college budget as it can eat tires up pretty badly on the inside.
.04 in would be a good starting point front and rear.

 

Huh? zero toe is going to be the toe setting that gets you the least toe related wear. and zombie, you can run more than 3 deg of caster with manual steering, dont know about a de-powered rack though but yeah it does start to get hard when you get over like 4.5.

 

Where did you get that idea from? Leafy is right on this, 0 dynamic toe is ideal for minimizing wear. 0 dynamic toe usually coincides nicely with 0 static toe...

 

You and Leafy are 100% right on that, I was thinking of something else when I wrote that.