concealer404

iTrader: (3)

And we appreciate that they're finally here. Maybe take a page from your own direction and not post off-topic stuff in this thread as you've pointed out so many times in the past you hate in threads about your products/builds.

Seriously, pumped that these are finally here.
Also seriously, keep it in your own thread.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

We're looking at releasing a complete DIY Bilstein kit. You supply NA Bilsteins, we supply everything else. https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...rmiata-107918/

SPM coilover sleeves, set screw collar
SPM NB mounts
2.5" spring adapters, aluminum
Bushings & washers for mounts
6 & 7" main springs 550/350
46mm MCU bump stops

If we make our own private label springs, we can bring the price way down. Like $400 shipped. But we'd have to settle on one spring rate combo to meet MOQ. While some here like 700/400 or 800/500, we know the Bilsteins have nowhere near enough damping to control them.
In our experience, 450/300 works well on light cars or street only builds, 500/350 for everything else. 300/200 is actually quite good for a 100% street build with no track/auto--x.

Spring rates?

hioto

I'm near the finish line with this. Just need to measure and cut bumpstops.

94 NA 1.8 stock

Parts used,

NB hard S
Advanced Auto sleeves
Maruha top hats
Mazdaspeed bushings
Honda Bumpstops
Torrington bearings
700 6" Eibachs
400 7" Eibachs
Helper springs
Energy isolators
car will see mainly track use.

Stock sways for now
15x8 +28 Enkei RPF1205/50R15 Falken RT660s

Corner balance, alignment and probably a mild fender roll to follow.

JKav

iTrader: (1)

pants

hioto

Update,

Removed the rear helper springs as car was sitting to high in the rear even with the perches all the way down. Its now at a more even height. I would consider lowering the rear circlips 1-1.5 inches or opting for shorter springs.

I was also getting a bit of spring rub on the sleeves with the helpers in the rear.

After alignment and corner balance car feels very good in the streets and highways. Have yet to test at the track.

The spring rates I thought would have been too stiff but they feel OK. I could definitely daily the NA with these rates.

Will report back after first lapping day with performance, pinch weld heights, corner balance results and alignment specs after suspension has settled.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I cut lower circlip notches on my NB billies with a hose clamp and a hack saw. You use the hose clamp as a guide to get it square to the shock body. You'll want to finish it with a sawsal blade through, because that close enough to the right width for the circlip, I just held the blade with vise grips.

PKF

Hey everyone greetings from Australia. I've spent a lot of time going through 110 pages of this thread and I am still a little unsure of my setup.

I have a 95 NA Miata (Eunos S Special) with the stock Bilstein suspension. From my research this is the equivalent to your NA R-Package. The general consensus from this thread is that the R-package Billies are going to be sh*t. But from other sources I've heard that they should be fine with higher spring rates (due to the massive rebound damping) and shorter bump stocks. I don't really want to go to the extra expense and trouble of hunting down Hard-S/MSM shocks as they are quite difficult to find here.

Current stock ride height measurements are:

Front: 5.25 inch pinch weld (13.4 inch fender)
Rear: 5.00 inch pinch weld (13.0 inch fender)

I want to achieve the these measurements:

Front: 3.85 inch pinch weld (12.0 inch fender)
Rear: 4.25 inch pinch weld (12.25 inch fender)

I am still unsure of what length springs to order? It seems that 7" is the popular size but some reports I say that there isn't much room to go lower. Others have said coil bind with 6" springs. What size springs should I get?

Here's my shopping list. Shipping from the States is expensive so I want to make sure I get it right the first time and haven't overlooked anything? Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks
Paul

hioto

Having just gone through this on my 94, I would consider the shorter 4" sleeves from advanced autosports.

Also, to achieve your desired ride heights, you will need to cut the circlip on your shocks lower. 1- 1.5 inches.

If you do both of those, you should be good with 7" springs in the back.

Just from my recent experience.

PKF

Thanks for your reply. I noticed you are running NB Bilsteins but I have NA Bilsteins. Does the same apply?

hioto

Not sure.

But take the opportunity while the shock body's are free to lathe a new circlip location.

It will make it easier to achieve your desired height, and also give you room to move up.

hioto

*update*

Installed extended ball joints as the OEMs were nearing the end of life.

Alignment specs
Camber
-3.25 front camber
-2.40 rear camber

Corner weights
LF 629 - 618 RF
LR 600 - 580 RR
CROSS - 1218
50.18% balance

Got 2 lapping days in so far this season with the new setup. Car feels really dialed in. Very happy with the results. As much as I would like to go lower, I think the height is very functional. Rolled fenders all around, still have the undertray and fender liners in. I had to modify the fender liners a bit to get rid of some rubbing. All I did was heat up the liner with a heat gun and re-mold the plastic. Some areas that poke "out" now poke "in".

I will edit this post with pinch weld heights once I have the opportunity to measure.

PKF

hioto that's a great looking car. I'd be keen to find out your pinch weld heights and how much bump travel you have at these heights?

I'm still undecided on spring length and would like to order.

Can I ask the reason you chose 6" springs in the front and 7" in the back instead of all the same length?

hioto

Pinch weld height average is 5.00 inches all around

I don't know exactly how much bump travel but it has more than enough. This has to do with the extended top hats.

I opted for 7" in the back just based on all the information gathered across multiple forums and posts. Seemed like that's what most people did based on the shock length difference front /back.

Please share where you end up with your setup.

hioto

What style Of driving will you be doing with your NA?
Are you planning on keeping your fender liners in place?
Function vs. form

I would love to go half inch, 3/4 inch lower for the looks. But any lower I would have to remove my mudguards, reconfigure or remove my fender liners and roll more fender. Although it mainly sees the racetrack, I would still like to keep these things intact.

hioto

*update*

I'm getting spring rub on all 4 corners. Reason being, I did not glue the spring isolators to the top mount.

The reason I choose not to do that was because the Maruha tophats I went with do not have a lip on them for the spring seat. I didn't want to guess gluing the isolator into place and it not being centered.

In hindsight, I would have likely chosen tophats that have a spring seat incorporated already.

Next time the suspension is apart I will create some templates for the tophats and glue the isolators into place.

Also,
I removed the rear helper springs and now when the car is jacked up there is about 1cm of freeplay (spring becomes unseated) I could adjust the collar up a bit to make it snug but I want all the lows.

hindsight, I would opt to lathe a new circlip location 1 inch maybe 1.5 inches lower and have the collar perch higher. Right now its as low as it can go.

Bronson M

iTrader: (1)

You're waaaaaaaay over thinking this. Most of us don't run any kind of seat, just let the spring sit on the top hat directly.

There's also zero issues with the spring dangling at full droop, this will only happen on jack stands, never in motion. Would need to get both tires off the ground on the same axle and even then it'll reset just might clang. But if you're jumping your car you have bigger issues.

hioto

I Agree bronson,

The general consensus is that spring rub doesn't matter. The rubbing noise is really the only issue I have. I know it doesn't affect performance.

Also with the spring droop. I understand it doesn't affect performance at all, It's just something that was discussed throughout this thread and I'm sharing the results of my setup.

douginjenison

iTrader: (1)

NA Bilsteins - I believe these are R Package?? Maybe someone knows..
Front Spring 7" Jegs 555-64897 450 lb
Rear Spring 7" Jegs 555-64906 300 lb
Stefan S. Machined Sleeves
NB Top Hats
Energy Susp 9-6103G
5X Racing NB Top Hat Conversion Kit
Honda Bump stops

JEGS had the springs on sale last week for $27 each! So, those were the weights I went with.

Still need to figure out what length bump-stops will be

jacob300zx

Emilio, I could see this selling well as a 450/350 ish style kit. It would give blown shock street guys a huge improvement on the road and the track guys should be able to get away with 205 200tw tires for auto/hpde playing. I might even suggest some 300/200 with bump stop tuning as being able to fill the 450/350 roll but with the added cost of bump stop development. Either would sell pretty good if there was a pnp easy button.

akaryrye

iTrader: (5)

So I just put together a setup for the 2003 I recently bought. Found a set of spec miata race car take-offs (NA HD) for $120. Got some Allstar sleeves, 550/350 summit springs, Integra bumps tops, and a few misc washers and ****. All in was about $600. I didn't buy the 5x NB tophat stuff. Instead I DIY'd it with a thick rubber washer on top, and a slice of bumps top on bottom. No sleeve nut, full thread engagement (if barely).

Anyway, I've read so much **** about the NA HDs ... I was a little worried (also about the spring rate), but these really aren't all that bad. Now, I am riding fairly high RN, like 13.5"" (ish). I can tell it's under damped, especially in compression, but overall it's not bad. Far from uncomfortable, and on par or better than the average mid-range coilover I've experienced. Not crashing on the bumpstops helps a ton. Eventually, I want to adjust the valving, but wanted to see how they ride as is first.

Anyway, thanks to everyone who contributed to this. It was hugely helpful for navigating through the weeds!