Bilstein + ebay sleeve
#1
Bilstein + ebay sleeve
What exactly is it to this? I was doing some searching and some people are having problems with getting a proper ride height with the ebay sleeves since they don't mount low enough?
I'm going to run 7'' QA1's. What do I need to do to get a 12.25ish ride height with 15's?
I'm going to run 7'' QA1's. What do I need to do to get a 12.25ish ride height with 15's?
#3
The great part about it is that for less than the GC setup, you can select the spring rates you want from every vendor on the planet with 2.5" ID 7-8" length springs...QA1s from Summit being the best price/quality option. After you've got the rates you want the thing that makes this a really great track of DD setup is that you can easily revalve the shocks to match your spring rates.
The ride height deal can be fixed by using flat perches. Konis have three perch settings, and the lowest one obviously gives you the best adjustment range. For the Bilsteins I machined a perch that allowed me to get down to 12.5" with 7" springs, with about another 1/2" of adjustment left, which is a little more at the wheel.
Wheel diameter won't affect you wheel center to fender lip measurement...although it and your tire selection may affect your actual ride height relative to the ground. The 12.25" number just tells you how far in the travel range the A-arms are at static ride height. At that point I'd be wishing for some ISC racing mounts.
But here's how you do it, or one way to do it:
1. Buy eBay universal coils with the ALUMINUM spring isolator on the top and drill out the ID to fit your shock, turning it into a perch, or machine your own perch. I've documented this in a couple of other threads, including a WTB I did. I think the measurement on that drawing are for Koni Sports, so measure your shocks, but same idea.
2. Throw away those springs. Yes, they work, and yes, you may be using those rates, but they are 5.5", and unload well before droop, and although the first set I got was spot on with the rates, the second set wasn't.
3. Research, and figure out what spring rates you want to run, and order them in 2.5" ID, 7" length. If you're going below about 300lb/in and you're on Konis or actual GC sleeves you can accomodate an 8" spring and still hit 12.5". The 7" spring loads very nicely though, and feels well planted throughout the travel/droop range. I first put the QA1s on the back, and was amazed at how much more communicative the tail end of the car was, as well as never going anywhere without first sending me a text message.
4. Send off your dampers to get revalved for those rates, or the middle of the range of rates you can see yourself running.
5. **** bitches.
I'm not sure about Flex, but I'm not as impressed with the SuperStreet as I thought I'd be. They're supposed to be the same damper, and to get it to ride decently it get really floofy and makes you think you're back on stock springs. When you turn up the damping you can definitely tell you're on ~400lb/in springs, ON BOTH ENDS. It does what I want for a daily driver, which is to stay composed in most situations, and be comfortable. The last three setups (like the above) I had were much better when pushed though, and I would have tracked them before this. They were all jawbreakers though. I should have saved up to get those shocks revalved to complete the setup, as this is the final piece to get the comfort, and keep the stiffer springs. The improved damping will also allow you to push it further.
Spring your weight...damp your springs.
The ride height deal can be fixed by using flat perches. Konis have three perch settings, and the lowest one obviously gives you the best adjustment range. For the Bilsteins I machined a perch that allowed me to get down to 12.5" with 7" springs, with about another 1/2" of adjustment left, which is a little more at the wheel.
Wheel diameter won't affect you wheel center to fender lip measurement...although it and your tire selection may affect your actual ride height relative to the ground. The 12.25" number just tells you how far in the travel range the A-arms are at static ride height. At that point I'd be wishing for some ISC racing mounts.
But here's how you do it, or one way to do it:
1. Buy eBay universal coils with the ALUMINUM spring isolator on the top and drill out the ID to fit your shock, turning it into a perch, or machine your own perch. I've documented this in a couple of other threads, including a WTB I did. I think the measurement on that drawing are for Koni Sports, so measure your shocks, but same idea.
2. Throw away those springs. Yes, they work, and yes, you may be using those rates, but they are 5.5", and unload well before droop, and although the first set I got was spot on with the rates, the second set wasn't.
3. Research, and figure out what spring rates you want to run, and order them in 2.5" ID, 7" length. If you're going below about 300lb/in and you're on Konis or actual GC sleeves you can accomodate an 8" spring and still hit 12.5". The 7" spring loads very nicely though, and feels well planted throughout the travel/droop range. I first put the QA1s on the back, and was amazed at how much more communicative the tail end of the car was, as well as never going anywhere without first sending me a text message.
4. Send off your dampers to get revalved for those rates, or the middle of the range of rates you can see yourself running.
5. **** bitches.
I'm not sure about Flex, but I'm not as impressed with the SuperStreet as I thought I'd be. They're supposed to be the same damper, and to get it to ride decently it get really floofy and makes you think you're back on stock springs. When you turn up the damping you can definitely tell you're on ~400lb/in springs, ON BOTH ENDS. It does what I want for a daily driver, which is to stay composed in most situations, and be comfortable. The last three setups (like the above) I had were much better when pushed though, and I would have tracked them before this. They were all jawbreakers though. I should have saved up to get those shocks revalved to complete the setup, as this is the final piece to get the comfort, and keep the stiffer springs. The improved damping will also allow you to push it further.
Spring your weight...damp your springs.
#5
This thread is from a few days ago:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t44740/
Here is a drawing (with Koni measurements):
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t37149/
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t44740/
Here is a drawing (with Koni measurements):
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t37149/
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