hustler

iTrader: (6)

Right now I'm trying to decide if I want to relax and wing it tomorrow with bad brakes, or work for about 4 hours and get the bigger master in

240_to_miata

iTrader: (2)

Just wanted to put these 2 together...

SolarYellow510

Try to at least get parts from a non-ABS car. The ABS M/Cs have only two ports (like a 929 1-in. m/c), so you'll need an M10x1 tee somewhere to connect the second front line. Even at that, I think the second front port on the non-ABS car is on the bottom, rather than the side, so the LF line will take some special work to connect.

You have more options if you already have an adjustable prop valve installed, as the union for the front circuit that no longer has to pass through the prop valve is an opportunity for a tee. See Bob's setup over on m.net for a pic.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Wirelessly posted

It took 90-minutes to move the lines and bolt it in on my back...now, the reverse bleed. If you have the FM prop valve kit, get the Lines and fittings and stock prop valve to bend them up instead of making lines.

jasonb

sure hope that works. i'm like the worlds laziest bleeder and haven't had any problems except with brake fade... and the time i lost the brakes completely after brian swapped the 1.8 brake hardware in. some problem with a T and it leaked all the fluid out and the pedal went to the floor...

i still say a c-clamp on the rears would tell you what to chase. or cap the ******* things off completely where the hard line ends.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

It feels good up and down the street, I'll be on the track in 6-hours.

SKMetalworks

iTrader: (7)

Go hustler!

Gotpsi?

iTrader: (5)

I know it was already mentioned in this thread, and disregarded, but I did adjust the rod on the MC, only sightly. I wanted there to be as little travel as possible. It worked well but took 2 or 3 trys to get it adjusted to the point that the brakes would not drag. Now my pedal moves about .5 to .75" total, I feel it gives me very quick and precise brake modulation, I don't have to "push" the pedal down at all, just apply pressure. O yes my set up is the 4 wheel Good-win BBK, w/ stock MC, and Flyin miata prop valve kit, Amsoil brake fluid, and Cobalt friction XR2, XR4 set up.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

tell me why you didnt bleed it from the top two bleeders on that brake caliper instead of the bottom?

do air bubbles not rise in your garage?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Wirelessly posted

You have to bleed all 4 on each caliper, crap always comes out.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

I've had fine luck with just bleeding the top two... I just thought maybe you hadn't.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

it still comes out if you do the wheels after....

SolarYellow510

So, how was the track?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I ******* hate that track, first of all. The pedal felt good but I definitely have pad knock back...and I'm not sure why so I'm tightening all the hubs and going to see what that does at the track. The pedal felt good until the cool down lap...then it dropped to the floor. I just bled the brakes and the fluid is clear with very few bubbles if any so I'm stumped. Caliper temps show now higher than 400* so I doubt I'm boiling fluid.

If fluid boils does it immediately darken or can it stay clear?

jasonb

heat soak into the master cylinder or nearby lines? if i'm thinking about this right, engine bay temps should peak at the very beginning of cooldown lap and then drop quickly.

you can move the mc out of the engine bay and add some redundancy at same time.


u need a pan and a stove probalby not the one you got for wedding present...