How interesting.

When I parked the car the clutch worked fine, every bit of it. After the ACT install, the clutch just wouldnt bleed, or build pressure; it was sucking air past the seal in the master.

I always replace both at once. And fwiw, I only got about 5k with duralast parts.

 

Also, installed both entirely dry, had the clutch bled in about 3 minutes, within maybe 10 cycles with the wife in the drivers seat and me under the car.

 

So... What fluid did you use?

 

Pat. Read up on brake fluid. It's hard to take you seriously between your refusal to read what was posted and your apparent ignorance of brake fluid.

 

As long as he didn't use motor oil or silicone based (dot5?) he is fine. I used O'Reilly mega awesome dot4

 

DOT3 and DOT4 are completely cross-compatible.

 

Have you blamed the clutch yet? They often act weird while they're being broken in. How nice have you been to it when you have driven it?

 

lol, sorry for wasting your time trying to help you troubleshoot your problem

 

The only fluids that aren't compatible are the silicone-based.

 

I haven't blamed the clutch yet, but i haven't noticed this behavior in any other clutches i've installed. At least not the inconsistent part. When they refuse to disengage entirely, they typically do so consistently and can be adjusted out.

I've been pretty nice to it. I've run it up the RPMs, but i haven't been banging gears hard or doing clutch drops or anything.

I mean, i appreciate you trying to help, but your two main points are a non-issue and something i specifically said i did in the first post when i described the issue and what i did about it.


Anyways, i'll replace both cylinders again after work today and re-bleed, see if i can't get some love out of this. Still had to drive it to work this morning, my poor transmission. Loving the clutch/flywheel combo otherwise. Definitely added some NVH but this car already had that in spades, so whatever. Revs stupid fast and made a noticeable difference in "pull" in the first couple gears.

 

Have you ever thought of swapping in a nice 1.6 motor? I hear they rev amazingly and nothing is better.

 

<br />
<br /><br />
<br />This has amused me to great end this whole thread.

 

It's because the parts are smaller, and therefor lighter, right?


That's really the thing that frustrates me about all this. The Miatas have been the one car historically that i haven't cheaped out on. Barring the Escort, i've also had the most problems with them. The MX6 is NOTHING but hackjobs but never gave me 25% the problems i've had with Miatas.

 

<br />
<br /><br />
<br />Its because there are fucktards in this world and they reside on m.net.

 

Replaced hydraulics. Bench bled. Used the correct fluid that my system was designed for. Bled the hell out of it.

No change.

I'm at a loss at this point. Any ideas? Car shifts like garbage (Which is especially vexing because i bought a $400 shifter/**** setup to make it feel perfect, and it did on the last clutch) because i'm fighting synchros, refuses to go into 1st or reverse from a stop.

 

I hate to say it, but youve kinda ruled everything out but the clutch.

 

Adjusted the pedal correctly?<br />
<br /><br />TOB installed backwards? Clutch fork bent. Idk throwing out silly ideas.

 

Yeahhh. This sucks. Now that i've run through $55 in hydraulics and probably $40 worth of brake fluid.

I don't have time to do this again. Guess i'm going to have to get a rental and farm it out.

 

Yep. I've moved engagement point anywhere from right off the floor to up around my ears. Has zero bearing on the issue.

 

I've probably replaced 100 clutches in my life time, and I've only had one do this exact thing. It was a stock replacement sachs that had a fucked up pp diaphram. When we went to remove it, it was clear as all the fingers were at a slightly different angle.