pmhellings

Recently replaced my motor with built motor and now running16 psi. @ about 275 whp. Called Flyin’ Miata before the install to get their opinion on using my Level One clutch ( about 30,000 miles old) with my new motor. They said it should be fine, good to about 300 whp. After 3000 miles on new engine it has begun to slip if not in appropriate gear. For instance, at 70 mph on interstate, if I floor it without downshifting to 5th or 4th it will slip.

Recommendations for a fix? Replace the disc or something entirely new? Sure would have been easy to do on the new motor install ( as I whack my face for dumbassedness).

It’s a street and autocross car and I want something easy to drive in traffic. Ideas?

Paul

dleavitt

iTrader: (1)

Ran in to the same problem with my FM1 clutch, mine started letting go around 220whp though. I ended up with an ACT XTSS, which is their extreme-duty pressure plate with their organic disk. Heavier than the FM1, but not difficult to use at all. Wife-approved.

borka

iTrader: (1)

My fm 1 holds my 309hp 272wtq just fine. Maybe try a new clutch disk from fm? Its $179

Make sure your rear main seal is not leaking on the clutch

pmhellings

Yes, perhaps that’s the way to go. Doubt if rear main seal is leaking. Only about 4K miles on the new Trackspeed engine. Besides, rear main would sling oil between block and flywheel, not as likely top get on the clutch. What about from trans seal? Could that do it?

Paul

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

FM1's seem iffy. I went to SuperMiata, but have heard many good things about the ACT XTSS

MiataOwner

iTrader: (1)

Miata's slaves are very picky, and need to be configured just right. Otherwise you could end up where the fluid cant return, so when it heats up it depresses the clutch just a bit without you realizing. I had a Happy Meal that started to slip. Went with this No issues. Great deal too, the clutch and pp is like $50 more than the cost of that Fidanza. I was very skeptical about their quality, but 10k miles later and I have very little complaints. That "brand" has stage 3 and 4 versions as well. obviously i didnt use their throughout bearing

pmhellings

Based on the post from MiataOwner about the slave cylinder “needing to be configured just right”, it occurred to me that I had no slippage prior to changing my master cylinder for the clutch. On a whim, I re-bled the system and it appears to have fixed the problem. Time will tell, but crisis averted fro the short term.
Thanks for all the responses.

Paul

MiataOwner

iTrader: (1)

after your adjustment make sure you can push the slave back into its bore by hand after pumping the pedal. If it doesn't go back in is covering the bleed hole. you dont want that.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

These directions from FM are pretty helpful. Step 13 onward is not optional in my experience, including shaving the #10 stop down. You'll probably have a looooot better shifting after maxing out hydraulic travel.

https://www.flyinmiata.com/support/i...structions.pdf

MiataOwner

iTrader: (1)

I personally found those directions poorly worded, and that diagram badly illustrated.

tl;dr. Adjust your clutch pedal rod for proper engagement. After your satisfied with where the clutch engages, pump it a few times, and then go under the car and with your hand push the slave rod back into its bore. If it goes in, good. If it does not go back in that means your clutch rod is too far out, and the bleed hole in the master is covered preventing fluid from returning. You will need to shorten your clutch rod until the slave is able to be pushed back by hand. If you cant find a good middle ground where it engages, and is able to return, you can attach a small nut to the slave rods tip to extend its range.

The flywheels FM uses aren't that great. I couldn't find a single machine shop that was willing to resurface it because of those dowel towers. I recommend a Fidanza. Get a 1.6 if you want an even lighter flywheel.