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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 10:24 PM
  #41  
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Mmmm inboard brakes are one of my favorite things. I wish I knew why they went away, the only thing I've read that makes sense is that fully reversed torsion is just hell from a metal fatigue standpoint.
Old Apr 6, 2017 | 02:17 AM
  #42  
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Continuing the thread drift, inboard brakes in F1, circa 1977 (Lauda's Ferrari).

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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 05:55 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by OptionXIII
Mmmm inboard brakes are one of my favorite things. I wish I knew why they went away, the only thing I've read that makes sense is that fully reversed torsion is just hell from a metal fatigue standpoint.
How about having to pull the whole axle to do a brake job?

Working on an old, creaky XKE with a friend back 25 years ago, I learned why used Jags were so cheap. Absolute nightmare to work on.
Old Apr 6, 2017 | 10:38 AM
  #44  
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Would love to see a race prepped version. I envision a cleaner, lighter overlay with holes drilled out for spot welding. Using the original load points but just adding another layer for ridgidity makes sense to me.
Old Apr 7, 2017 | 01:32 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by ThePass
Adding a boat anchor to the front of the car... not high on my to-do list. Heavy for the sake of being strong is appropriate for... tanks. Not Miatas. A good design from a performance perspective balances strength with weight. Hint: plate steel is the wrong approach. IMO saying it's made by an offroad-focused company doesn't justify anything, the GOOD off road race stuff still keeps a close eye on the weight of things, just scaled up for the higher loads of the heavier vehicle, because the lighter vehicle is faster, regardless of the terrain.
Plate steel no, but sheet steel with the right bends would get you close without the added weight.
Old Apr 7, 2017 | 02:28 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
The trucks are AWD. Did no one suggest inboard brakes like a Jaguar or are they disallowed, too?



Or a supplemental disc brake on the driveshaft(s)?



Or two calipers per rotor (which I've seen somewhere)?
the 4 wheel drive class is really small. most trucks and buggies are 2wd. the reverse torsional loads destroyed axles in a short time when a few teams tried inboard brakes.
Old Apr 12, 2017 | 02:15 PM
  #47  
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Latest iteration of the brace
Old Feb 20, 2018 | 06:19 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
I agreed



starts here- https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...8/#post1190233


EDIT- its funny was just reading some of my old comments
those look WAY smarter than the frog style. does anyone make tube style ones like that?
Old Feb 20, 2018 | 06:44 AM
  #49  
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See also V8Roadsters.
Old Feb 20, 2018 | 07:08 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
See also V8Roadsters.
those do look good and the install thread they show makes it look pretty easy. I prefer a no drill scenario, just because i'm lazy
Old Feb 20, 2018 | 09:29 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by EasyEJL
those do look good and the install thread they show makes it look pretty easy. I prefer a no drill scenario, just because i'm lazy
Then may I suggest a stock unmolested NB that you just change fluids on regularly and drive. Wait..... what forum is this, where am I?
Old Feb 20, 2018 | 09:33 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by OptionXIII

​​​​​​Did you have to cut into that trapazoidal cowl drain that every other brace dodges to put the upper square tube in place? NBD either way, I have a fresh tube of seam sealer and an angle grinder.
Sorry @OptionXIII just noticed this while reading through the thread again. Better late than never. I did have to clearance that lip yes, but only had to cut it back maybe an 1/8", didn't even get close to the actual pinch welds, so no issues there. I hit the exposed sheet metal edges with some paint for rust protection.
Old Feb 21, 2018 | 03:10 PM
  #53  
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Noob question: are the track guys running these as well, or is this purely to impress the ladies with my stiffness while going over railroad tracks?
Old Feb 21, 2018 | 04:20 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by EasyEJL
those do look good and the install thread they show makes it look pretty easy. I prefer a no drill scenario, just because i'm lazy
Yep, they bolt right on without any drilling.
Old Feb 22, 2018 | 08:51 AM
  #55  
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Here's the Garage Star brace on my car. You do have to drill for the top outer bolt but I didn't find that to be a big deal to do.

Old Feb 23, 2018 | 01:10 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by maplewood
Noob question: are the track guys running these as well, or is this purely to impress the ladies with my stiffness while going over railroad tracks?
the hardcore crowd do not run these. Adding weight up high and forward is not something they do. A cage stiffens the chassis many times over any gains these might give you. Besides, these claim to stiffen the chassis for “better steering response and front end grip” meanwhile the floppy, hacked up CSP cars are seeing nearly 2G sustained. They’re all stance points and car-show sticker swagger, no real performance benefit. I’ll admit they may make a difference in ride quality/rattlyness but nobody here gives a fart about NVH. We’re here to go fast.
Old Feb 23, 2018 | 03:56 PM
  #57  
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Comparing a CSP car that drives around on a billiard table surface and a track car that jumps curbs and expansion joints like the ones at Sebring kind of doesn't work for me. What I know about the sloppy dick Fox body Mustangs is that you can only tighten up the suspension so much before the body flexes when you go over bumps and the suspension doesn't move. It doesn't mean they can't achieve 2 G's of grip, it just means you cannot tune the suspension properly anymore.
Old Feb 26, 2018 | 08:31 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
Comparing a CSP car that drives around on a billiard table surface and a track car that jumps curbs and expansion joints like the ones at Sebring kind of doesn't work for me. What I know about the sloppy dick Fox body Mustangs is that you can only tighten up the suspension so much before the body flexes when you go over bumps and the suspension doesn't move. It doesn't mean they can't achieve 2 G's of grip, it just means you cannot tune the suspension properly anymore.
I dunno about an autoX lot being billiard-table smooth, but I think we can agree that until a Miata is caged, the chassis will always act as its own spring. Door bars or frame rails (in that order) will likely do a lot more for overall chassis rigidity than cowl braces anyway.
Old Feb 26, 2018 | 09:10 AM
  #59  
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I have door bars, frame rails, and cowl braces. They all help.

I actually want a partial cage or "street cage" that allows me to keep the roll up windows and A/C.
Old Feb 26, 2018 | 09:29 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
I have door bars, frame rails, and cowl braces. They all help.

I actually want a partial cage or "street cage" that allows me to keep the roll up windows and A/C.
When can I visit you to see how bad getting in and out is with the door bars? Those do seem like they would help a lot, but the miata is already on the low and not the easiest to get into



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