dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

Doing this helped my IAT's quite a bit... just need to bend the clutch hard-line a little bit to make clearance for the hose.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the suggestions.

dcamp2 is that just a piece of duct laying there? no deceptive magic? i assume the cowl is a high pressure area?

il have to ponder this and if i have time before the next track day at the end of the month, i may revisit it. if not, when i replace the radiator in december ill probably screw with it then.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I think the problem is that you're confusing a heat shield with a cold air box. You already had the former (because there's an OEM heat shield covering the OEM header). You're really not doing anything with the added shield at the moment.

A cold air box has 2 things:

1. A reasonably tight air compartment around an air filter (you've kind of build that up); AND

2. A source of cold air.

#2 is key. My red car gets cold air from the headlight lid NACA duct. Dave's getting his from the cowl area (my silver car does this too).

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

yeah, I drilled through the cowl with a hole saw and wedged in a 2.5" flange then ran some duct over to the filter... the duct is secured with a few zip-ties (not pictured). Cowl is a high pressure area. I ran the same duct into the stock airbox for a long time- works great.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

yup, my assumption was radiant heat from the exhaust was the main issue.

this car needs to stay street able, so the headlight should probably stay put. is the cowl duct the next best option?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

it looks like im being convinced to drill a hole. any issue with raising pressure in the engine bay?

suggestions on ducting from lowes racing, or do i need to order this **** from somewhere?

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

Not sure on it raising pressure... my car runs cool enough on track...

I got my stuff from aircraft spruce, although lowes racing might have something workable...


ALUMINUM FLANGES FOR DUCTING from Aircraft Spruce

Search Results from Aircraft Spruce

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

hardware stores didnt have much under 6" diameter.

i got some of this at oreilly
Murray Climate Control 55046 - Duct Hose | O'Reilly Auto Parts

and was going to tackle it this morning, but i cant find my hole saws

so i think im going to clean the garage for today and i have some coolant leaks to fix

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

The Aircraft Spruce duct flanges are pretty inexpensive and really high quality. I use them for all sorts of things.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

i was just going to slap something together for the flange. im not known for my patience.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

LOL. Yeah. Just noticed the thread tag.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

yup, im still learning to slow down and think about what im doing instead of being in overdrive all the time, lol. some say i have adhd

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

so i found a flange in one of my piles of **** from a vacuum collection system. it is amazingly close to what i need. i just had to open the ID up a little as it has really thick walls, and shorten it. i trimmed the flange thickness down just because and to add lightness. i found my hole saw arbor and bought the right size hole saw and made a hole. i also bent the clutch line out of the way.




has about a 1/16" of clearance so im going to put some rubber hose on it, or edging on the firewall lip.


i siliconed the flange in


this was in the way


so i modified it and broke 2 of the relay housings in the process so the contacts are now open to the elements. there are 2 open slots on the back side that one of the relays fit, the other is just tucked up in there



i lied






i cut a piece of 1/4" stock and drill and tapped the ends to tie the box together. air duct ziptied to the MC brace. im pretty happy with it. im going to try to get a log later today to see how it works.








and i sealed all the corners with silicone

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

the new intake mods helped immensely. the exhaust reducer, that i used as the filter mount, and IAT sensor heat soak very little now. before they would be "uncomfortable to touch" hot after a 20 minute drive. i drove 30 miles to the track, and it was hardly above ambient. data logs indicate anywhere from 8 to 20 degrees cooler than before. there is also a noticeable bump in power across the board when its cooler out.

track day pics







the car was loose and not confidence inspiring the last 2 events. i know the alignment isnt quite right and the tires are done, i also need to take care of a few control arm bushings.
sphericals
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...cussion-82072/

then i can get an alignemnt, new rivals are in the garage waiting to be mounted

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Success!

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the help!

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

i pulled the fenders off this morning to make my diy braces and to replace the passenger side fender. i found evidence of previous collision damage right behind where it got hit most recently on the pass fender. someone tried to repair it, but didnt get much of anything straight.

this is the recent damage from the moron who hit it in front of my house and ran.


fender dented in, front fender mount bent back a little, head light cover dented in, and headlight housing frame "racked" just slightly. the headlight base (the part that bolts the to car) is surprisingly straight.

you can see the bend right in front of the pivot bolt


and the previous damage.

pushed in about 1/2" right behind the wheel


rear fender stay


front fender stay is peeled back to the first spot weld and wrinckled


front "rail" not straight, pushed in


and hammer marks where someone tried




after i was done with it. you can see my chunk of 4340 round stock used as a dolley



and my question for today. why do all the braces on the market bolt to the hole where the wire bundle runs through? is there any reason i cant make the front landing right behind it on that lap joint/seam there? its 2 layers thick instead of just one, it wont disturb the cable, its nice and flat.... i can only see benefits, thoughts?

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Nice work. No clue on your question though.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

ive only had a n hour here and there to work on this, so ive been slowly chippin away the last 2 weeks.

ill just let this post be a visual experience:

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

phils tire has a deal i couldnt pass up. got a set of konig dial in 15x9s in gloss black on the way. i wanted broze, but i guess those are gone.

$440 shipped for a set of 4! 12.8lbs! flow formed! blah blah blah

thanks phil and kim!

they had 2 sets left when i called at noon today.


so i got my tires a month ago before i knew i was going to have 9" wheels, and got more of the 205/50-15s we have been running to go on my 15x6.5s (i know i was a noob when i bought those wheels). should i stretch these tires on the 9s? or wait until the next set of tires to get the proper 225/45s and just run the 15x6.5s for now? i would just exchange them for the 225s, but i think return shipping is going to be too much money.

i also ordered a foot of 2" delrin to make some front upper offset bushings, and they send me 2 feet on accident so now i can make some rear lower outer bushings too.

will upper offset bushing for more camber cause clearance issues with the top hat, or anything else with 9" wheels? i dont really want to run a spacer.

also this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...cussion-82072/