When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I bought a happy meal from flyin miata about a year ago. After reading some more recent reviews of failure I have become skeptical of my purchase. Has anyone experienced a faulty clutch from FM?
Im kind of the runt of mt.net, Ive had defective parts sent to me by every vendor here. I've had the worst luck from fm. My first happy meal was slipping on stock torque, the replacement kit had a defective throw out bearing, and the replacement bearing (now upgraded to the heavy duty variety) was also defective. They also sent me a clutch slave that rusted out in a few months without any salted road contact. I dont purchase anything from them anymore, but boy, do they have a good tech support staff.
im rocking my second level 1 FM clutch without issues. it has a nice engagement and holds my 300hp and 265tq just fine.
no complaints.
although either my pilot bearing or throughout bearing is not great, it makes a slight humming/spinning noise when in neutral and clutch is not depressed.
Both my FM clutches did this, its not bad, just a little annoying. and no way am i pulling the transmission just for this issue.
I have a clutch shudder when I start rolling from a stop, the whole car shakes. They would tell you you did not install it right. Other than that it's fine. It's not like there are whole other options out there.
I have a 300hp FM clutch. Had it in my 91, never any issues(only for 2k miles). Swapped it into my MSM, but noticed one of the 4 PP Springs is loose in its cradle. FM said it should be fine. I really didn't want to put it in, but I also did't want to spend more money. Driveability was great, no shudder as I only have a 14lb flywheel. My Pilot bearing was ******* shot thought. In 2k miles? Yikes. Put an oem Pilot, and FM's new heavy duty TOB which looks **** compared to the ACT "heavy duty".
I have a clutch shudder when I start rolling from a stop, the whole car shakes. They would tell you you did not install it right. Other than that it's fine. It's not like there are whole other options out there.
change out your clutch master/slave cylinders. i have the same problem with shudder when taking off, i am pretty sure its my master or slave cylinders.
I have not replaced them yet, but plan on it shortly.
change out your clutch master/slave cylinders. i have the same problem with shudder when taking off, i am pretty sure its my master or slave cylinders.
I have not replaced them yet, but plan on it shortly.
I'm curious how you arrived at that conclusion. Can you explain what you think is happening?
I'm curious how you arrived at that conclusion. Can you explain what you think is happening?
because my car does the same exact thing, i bleed the clutch and its all good for a while, and then it starts to shutter again. i am guessing air gets into the system from weak seals in either master or slave cylinders and air causes the shutter as it doesnt release the clutch as smooth as airless fluid does. that is my theory.
i bought new excedy master/slave cylinders on amazon for like $30 and will update if my shudder goes away once i change them out.
I just installed an FM level 1 clutch with my factory flywheel. Been about 500 miles. Great engagement, no clutch shudder or any problems whatsoever so far.
because my car does the same exact thing, i bleed the clutch and its all good for a while, and then it starts to shutter again. i am guessing air gets into the system from weak seals in either master or slave cylinders and air causes the shutter as it doesnt release the clutch as smooth as airless fluid does. that is my theory.
i bought new excedy master/slave cylinders on amazon for like $30 and will update if my shudder goes away once i change them out.
Makes sense actually. Do let us know.
My clutch is only doing it when it's hot though. Could be when fluids expand from heat it would allow air in?
edit:
Reading m.net suggests a few things. Could be motor mounts. Mine are shot.
because my car does the same exact thing, i bleed the clutch and its all good for a while, and then it starts to shutter again. i am guessing air gets into the system from weak seals in either master or slave cylinders and air causes the shutter as it doesnt release the clutch as smooth as airless fluid does. that is my theory.
i bought new excedy master/slave cylinders on amazon for like $30 and will update if my shudder goes away once i change them out.
Interesting theory. Looking forward to the update.
I'm on a FM1 clutch with a OEM flywheel. New master and slave. I get an almost imperceptible amount of shutter. No complaints from me. ~250wtq
Fm stage 2, 250who 220wtq along with the 11lb flywheel. It's been installed for about 10k miles. Best clutch I've had in any vehicle - perfectly smooth and linear (easy to modulate) engagement, good weight, doesn't slip. Love it.
I installed a used one (10# flywheel level 1) with an FMII with about 10k miles. I used new oe bearings, and replaced the master previously that was leaking down. I've put another 10k on it and have had no issues. Not sure how true this is, but the install manual says most issues are from incorrect linkage adjustment.
My car had cold start-off shudder when I bought it with 60K miles on it. I replaced the clutch with an FM happy meal with the 11#(?) flywheel in anticipation of boost. It shudders a little less when cold now. At the time I bought mine, FM was including OE bearings, which was good to see. Anyway, the clutch was not the cause of the shudder, and I need to look at various drivetrain mounts/bushings and/or hydraulics. I rather like the FM clutch and flywheel. The feel is very similar to my RX-8, which is quite good.
I've always liked the feel of the FM Level 2 clutch - progressive engagement and reasonable pedal effort. I'm on my second one (the first was changed because I had the transmission off for other reasons and bought another just in case it was close to being worn out - it wasn't). The second lasted 4 years and 32,000 km (<20K miles) before shifting became progressively more and more difficult. Here is what the back side of my clutch looked like:
Root cause is that the failing clutch was dragging during shifts, making them nigh-on impossible without matching revs. Needless to say I'm not impressed and my new clutch is the SuperMiata twin (with street flywheel).
I've always liked the feel of the FM Level 2 clutch - progressive engagement and reasonable pedal effort. I'm on my second one (the first was changed because I had the transmission off for other reasons and bought another just in case it was close to being worn out - it wasn't). The second lasted 4 years and 32,000 km (<20K miles) before shifting became progressively more and more difficult. Here is what the back side of my clutch looked like:
Root cause is that the failing clutch was dragging during shifts, making them nigh-on impossible without matching revs. Needless to say I'm not impressed and my new clutch is the SuperMiata twin (with street flywheel).
Someone correct me if im wrong but a clutch dragging between shifts would indicate it isn't disengaging all the way.. Which would have nothing to do with the clutch itself? More an adjustment or hydraulics issue, no?
08-05-2018, 01:11 PM
Flyin Miata Happy Meal
0
