Flywheel with a lower MoI than the Fidanza 1.6?
09-17-2015, 10:02 AM
#21
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
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If you're not driving in stop-and-go traffic, ceramic disks aren't terrible, just really really not great. I went through two sets with a 90 minute one way commute in the SF bay area. It can be done. You might turn into a homicidal manaic if you have that commute. I didn't, but I think that was mostly chance.
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10-04-2015, 05:37 AM
#23
If anyone checks on this later, I'm providing an update.
Got the twin ceramics in. Starting is harder, but not markedly so. More difficult all around, but possible to slip rather smoothly if taking great care.
On the positive side, it seems to catch rev matched downshifts with more authority, it's a snap more like a gear meshing, instead of less solid immediate bite of the organics.
TLDR: I'm actually pretty happy with it as a street, daily driver clutch. Just wonder how long it'll last, given y8s experience.
Got the twin ceramics in. Starting is harder, but not markedly so. More difficult all around, but possible to slip rather smoothly if taking great care.
On the positive side, it seems to catch rev matched downshifts with more authority, it's a snap more like a gear meshing, instead of less solid immediate bite of the organics.
TLDR: I'm actually pretty happy with it as a street, daily driver clutch. Just wonder how long it'll last, given y8s experience.
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10-05-2015, 12:00 AM
#24
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
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in stop and go traffic for more than an hour a day, probably 10,000 miles max.
in normal driving, maybe 30k max.
It's pretty much inversely proportional to starts from a stop. And it wears out the plates as much as the disks when you slip it a lot. So plan to replace all the surfaces (PP, floater, friction surface on flywheel/resurface) when you do a clutch job to save headaches later.
And do lots of burnouts. That will totally reduce wear on the clutch.
in normal driving, maybe 30k max.
It's pretty much inversely proportional to starts from a stop. And it wears out the plates as much as the disks when you slip it a lot. So plan to replace all the surfaces (PP, floater, friction surface on flywheel/resurface) when you do a clutch job to save headaches later.
And do lots of burnouts. That will totally reduce wear on the clutch.
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10-05-2015, 02:39 AM
#25
I replaced the floater (949 includes it with new friction disks), got the flywheel steel insert resurfaced, but didn't get any new PP fingers (whatever the fingery part is called) though. Did you have any issues with that piece?
Thank you very much for your replies, y8s.
Thank you very much for your replies, y8s.
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10-06-2015, 12:34 AM
#26
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 573
on the tilton, the pressure plate springs press against a floating plate too. It has a circular pivot that dictates the travel ratio. I'm on slow internet and can't find the picture but it looks a lot like the plate between the two disks.
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