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How long does it take to swap an open diff for a torsen?

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How long does it take to swap an open diff for a torsen?

 
Old 04-23-2018, 10:15 AM
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Default How long does it take to swap an open diff for a torsen?

2003 miata base. Driveway style, full sets of tools + jacks/jack stands. May get a full torsen in housing, may just get the guts. Roughly how long is the swap out?
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:58 AM
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pumpkin or whole carrier?

pumpkin- 2 hrs. carrier- 3-10. lots of factors, lots of fasteners that can fight or give up easily.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:00 AM
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depends if you can get the axles out of the hubs or not, but I wouldn't ever imagine more than 2 hours.

if you swap guts, add another half hour or so removing the carrier and swapping it over.

it's a really simple job.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit View Post
pumpkin or whole carrier?

pumpkin- 2 hrs. carrier- 3-10. lots of factors, lots of fasteners that can fight or give up easily.
Well, i'm trying to decide which to buy, so you've got me leaning towards pumpkin
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:02 AM
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Get the torsen in the housing. This will make your life so much easier. When you are going to drop your old diff out, unbolt the PPF from the trans mission. Then drop it with the diff. Pulling the PPF off the diff is much easier outside the car.
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Old 04-23-2018, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Get the torsen in the housing. This will make your life so much easier. When you are going to drop your old diff out, unbolt the PPF from the trans mission. Then drop it with the diff. Pulling the PPF off the diff is much easier outside the car.
you're talking about the full housing including mounts, like this right?

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Old 04-23-2018, 12:23 PM
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if full differential:
drop exhaust. drop axles. drain/drop old diff. install/fill new diff. replace axles. replace exhaust.
estimated time: 1-2 hours

if pumpkin only:
drop exhaust. drop axles. drain/drop old diff. remove carrier from old diff. install carrier on new diff. install/fill new diff. replace axles. replace exhaust.
estimated time: 1.5-2.5 hours

if guts only:
drop exhaust. drop axles. drain/drop old diff. remove carrier from old diff. take old pumpkin and new guts to shop who can install/set the gears correctly. install carrier on new diff. install/fill new diff. replace axles. replace exhaust.
estimated time: ??? hours


biggest time wasters: the diff spacer is always a bitch, and sometimes axles wont release from hub.
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Old 04-23-2018, 12:40 PM
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Thanks, that helps. so then my only real decision is gear ratio, and whether I get one in the pumpkin or full differential, and of course what I can find available to buy either locally or shipped
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Old 04-24-2018, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
if guts only:
drop exhaust. drop axles. drain/drop old diff. remove carrier from old diff. take old pumpkin to friends garage who has a 20 ton press and swears it's no big thang, he totally swapped gears on his mustang in high school and he KILLED it at the 1/8th, got him a sweet handy. Plus, there's like guides on the internet. Who can't follow a pictorial post from m.net garage bullshit section? Those m.netters are super smart and nerdy, they must be good at this. Just don't forget to BLUE THE GEAR AND ADJUST. So, unbolt the ring. Yeah yeah, just grab your 3/8" wrench and unbolt it. Wait, how the **** do you hold the diff in place? UGH WE NEED A BIGGER VICE. Ok, other buddy drove over, ring is off, now just let the pinion slide out. wtf. Pull, pull, why isn't this dropping out? dafuq, how many of these are pressed in?? I need to custom make some ******* metal jig to grab hold of the pinion? ***SPEND AN HOUR GRINDING RANDOM METAL LAYING AROUND YOUR SHED*** Realize you're 7 beers in and yeah pretty tipsy. Ok, you're drunk and it's dark out. Go to bed, disappoint gf but even a little more this time. Wake up, you got this man!! Start bolting **** back together. Oh yeah, your 20 ton press is killing it, MVP. Line gears up, eyeball it because you can't really figure out the dial indicator you bought from harbor freight. "It looks FINE man, we measured the distance diagonally and it's the same as it was before so you're golden." Torque everything, at least you did that right. Reinstall diff into car. Go for a drive, super giddy. Get up to 35 mph. rurrrrhhhh. Get up to 70 mph RURHRURHRUHRURHRURHR. Post on mt.net, blaming the noise on the poly diff bushings. Give little info on other changes. Fail to mention you did it yourself. Yell at Savington when he tells you poly bushings shouldn't make your diff louder. HE'S TOTALLY WRONG WHY ISN'T HE CONFIRMING MY BIAS? Blame everyone else. Use kindergarten grammar, spell **** wrong and don't punctuate. Get banned after calling a mod power hungry. Die. Mom sells car on craigslist, snagged up by darling little turbo kitten with a cute white tipped tail. Hears diff makes noise on first drive and rationally decides it's well worth the Benjamin or two to take pumkin and new guts to shop who can install/set the gears correctly. install carrier on new diff. install/fill new diff. replace axles. replace exhaust.
estimated time: ??? hours
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:01 PM
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Or that
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Old 04-25-2018, 08:47 AM
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sounds about right
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Old 04-25-2018, 06:28 PM
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When we are talking 'drop axles', we do mean 'remove axles from diff', don't we? NOT 'remove axles from hubs'.

That's the way I do it anyway. Only trick then is to get circlips aligned properly when re-installing.
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Old 04-25-2018, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Gee Emm View Post
When we are talking 'drop axles', we do mean 'remove axles from diff', don't we? NOT 'remove axles from hubs'.

That's the way I do it anyway. Only trick then is to get circlips aligned properly when re-installing.
Why not remove axles entirely, less stuff in there to get caught on the sodding carrier arms.
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Old 04-25-2018, 09:27 PM
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So the two different axle types have no effect on the procedure?
Seems we are talking like they do not, here.

I personally like to remove the entire thing. You can do a better RTV job and reinstalling the fluid is not a major PITA when the diff is out.

Like others said. Remove the PPF from the trans and take it off with the diff. I find that to be much easier. You can remove one bolt (further rear, maybe?) from the diff to help make the PPF swing to the side easier.

I've gotten the job down to around 2 hours / beers. It took about 4 - 5 hours my first time though, everything frozen and i was new at it.
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Old 04-25-2018, 10:02 PM
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The two axles do make a difference. With the 95.5+ axles you basically have to remove them from the hubs to get the diff out. with the 94-95.5 axles the diff can come out decently just unbolting the flanges.
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Old 04-25-2018, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
The two axles do make a difference. With the 95.5+ axles you basically have to remove them from the hubs to get the diff out. with the 94-95.5 axles the diff can come out decently just unbolting the flanges.
No you don't. Unbolt the upper A-arm and flop the upright forwards and the one-piece axles will move far enough to come out of the diff while still remaining in the hubs.

--Ian
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Old 04-25-2018, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by takai View Post
Why not remove axles entirely, less stuff in there to get caught on the sodding carrier arms.
Because the axles are probably seized into the hubs.

--Ian
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Old 04-25-2018, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
No you don't. Unbolt the upper A-arm and flop the upright forwards and the one-piece axles will move far enough to come out of the diff while still remaining in the hubs.

--Ian
I've done it that way, its hateful. the wings get stuck on the axles when trying to drop it out, without fail.
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Old 04-26-2018, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
I've done it that way, its hateful. the wings get stuck on the axles when trying to drop it out, without fail.
I have done several, and had no problem with the axles interfering with the removal/re-installation of the housing - I guess we are doing something differently.

I agree with the proposition to remove the housing with the PPF attached, that press-fit sleeve is a bastard to get out in situ.

Of course, you could remove the upright and axles as complete units, that's only undoing another suspension bolt, and taking the brake caliper off (or not). The axles I have known have not wished to be separated, resisting mightily ...
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Old 04-26-2018, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Gee Emm View Post
When we are talking 'drop axles', we do mean 'remove axles from diff', don't we? NOT 'remove axles from hubs'.

That's the way I do it anyway. Only trick then is to get circlips aligned properly when re-installing.
depends if two-piece or one-piece.

if two-piece, then I liked to unbolt the studs on the half-shaft, then punch out 2-3 of the studs on either side so the axles can be removed and pushed out of the way.

if one-piece, you gotta remove them from the hub. But unbolting the upper sounds like a better solution. I've only done upgrades from 1.6L rears, and had to remove everything anyway, so I'll yield on the best way to do these.
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