@EO2K

We have essentially the exact same transmission. Follow closely

[QUOTE=aidandj;1360988]So I did some measuring and brainstorming with sean yesterday for a TOB solution. And I think I have an idea. The real questions are italicized and bolded.

Here are the measurements:

T5:

TOB Sleeve OD 1.435"
TOB Sleeve thickness ~.1", couldn't really measure it well.
Input shaft OD: 1.054"

Miata:

TOB Sleeve OD 1.296"

My first thought was to turn down the TOB sleeve on the T5 to fit a miata TOB. But that won't work, so my next plan is to press the sleeve out of the T5, and machine a new one, that has the OD of the Miata TOB, with an ID that will fit over the input shaft.

How much clearance should the input shaft have from the TOB sleeve? In reality will the input shaft move at all while supported by the pilot bearing?

Picture of T5 TOB sleeve

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1c38c05194.jpg



I also still need to get my hands on a 90-93 V8 T5 input shaft. Not sure if new or used is the way to go.[/QUOTE


Would it be possible to put the T5 throw out bearing onto the Miata clutch fork?
Might be another option.

Maybe, but the interfaces looked a lot different. IMO the way i have thought of is easier.

Are you able to use the stock Miata TOB with the twin disk clutch? I'm using a teeny tiny little AP Racing hydraulic release bearing with my Quartermaster 5.5".

I have been for almost a year now. I'm waiting on emilio to find a new supplier for organic discs and ask if he can make me a set for the mustang input shaft. Then I should have clutch, pilot, TOB, and bellhousing figured out.

Driveshaft will be cake.

Shifter will be fun.

WAT.

Same gearing. Same input shaft length, same shifter. different speedo output.

What about the PPF?

On SBF T5's, the shifter is angled 5° when the cross member mount is horizontal.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1473941938

Wow thanks for that info. I'm glad I didn't assume.

I need to do more measuring.


PPF is gonna be a struggle. Im going to build a negative jig that locates a piece of PPF right where it goes on the Miata trans. Then stick the t5 on. And build to that jig.

Or I will chicken out and do a solid mount.

Be sure to have a way to adjust pinion angle in both directions, unless you're real good or real lucky. It was only until this year that I got a combination of pinion angle and driveshaft balance that worked for my setup. hehehe

With a ppf adapter? Or with a solid mount?

The Mustang clutch fork pivots on the end of the fork with the bearing in the middle, whereas the Miata fork pivots in the middle with the bearing on the end (using middle and end loosely, of course). Probably coz the Mustang has a mechanical clutch that needs to pull the fork, as opposed to the Miata's hydraulic one that needs to push it. The TOBs are different designs. The Mustang TOB is retained in place by a spring clip on the clutch fork, whereas the Miata TOB is held onto the fork by tabs on the bearing.

Pulled off the bearing cover to get the TOB sleeve out. You can see where the sleeve meets the cover, its super tight, nowhere to press. So I drilled a hole in the end of the sleeve and stuck a bigass nail through it, to press against. Then I heated the fuck out of it, and it came out easy.

Depth inside bearing cover: 1.1125"

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I also updated the original post with a link to my spreadsheet with all the data.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Dude what the fuck, press that shit back in there and buy this. 6000-Series Hydraulic Release Bearings - Tilton Engineering You want to measure the diameter of the tips your twin disk fingers with the clutch cover tightened and order the closest diameter to that for the release bearing. You'll have way better clutch feel with the proper release bearing on that twin disk than the stock miata crap.

$400. LOL. Good joke.

I think he forgot who he was dealing with :rofl:

I actually paid $420 through modern driveline for the radius 44mm to go with my quartermaster clutch. I figure it was worth it since I got a twin disk about the same weight as the 949 for $800. And I could have been super stupid and got the tiny fucking one and been even lighter.

If you want to turn that steel sleeve down I'll sell you the quartermaster release bearing I decided to not use because of the having to turn down the already too thin sleeve for $100.

And I got my twin disk for $400. But that doesn't really matter.

The goal of this project is to get a transmission for less than a 6 speed that holds the same power. Is cheaper to replace, and has real upgrade options.

We aren't turning a sleeve down. Were turning a new sleeve.

Did you miss the picture where I drilled 2 massive holes in it?

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