But my Miata tob is free?

But you're going to be way happier with a smaller diameter tob on the smaller diameter clutch though.

Why?

You get better leverage on the pressure plate fingers with the smaller TOB so the pedal effort is less and the modulation range is larger.

I'm happy with the pedal as is.

I'll take it off your hands, but it's not worth $150 to me

I also hear how little hysteresis there is in a proper release bearing. I'm excited to get my AP Racing release bearing in the T56.

New T5 info. The "shift lever" the thing at pins to the shift rod and has the detent ball in it and the cup for the shifter stick is now officially mystery metal.
It looks like steel
Got steel like weight
The case is harder than 1018 and makes grey gritty chips
the core is softer than 1018 and makes very nice looking copper colored chips
it tack welds fine with tig and steel filler
it cracks directly down a long bead with both steel and 30 filler
Welding fumes make your tongue feel funny and cant taste right for days

I'm going to braze my steel block to the t5 part.

I just welded up the hole i drilled. I'll be boring my new hole for the oil seal tomorrow or thursday.

Then I just need the new shift rod.

Good luck with brazing.

Or you could make the fork thing that the guy in the youtube video does.

you're doing what now? Right you're doing a lip seal I decided just popping the plug out and using a rubber boot would be fine.

I don't have the freeze plug. So I was stuck this way lol.

Oh right. And the damn freeze plug is annoying placed. I ought to be able to find some sort of boot that'll work somehow but I feel like I'm going to end up just fucking using some rubber sheet and RTVing it to the housing.

It really is poorly placed. Its super easy to ghetto rig something. I'm hoping mine works out. Won't know until I drill tomorrow.

Milled the hole for the tailshaft extension. Next up I need to calculate how long it needs to be extended. I may also need to add some sort of support around the seal. Give the shaft something to ride on. Maybe just a simple delrin bushing will do.

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you're going to slide the original t5 block back on there and drill the rod in about the right spot for the roll pin?

Also, FYI, it looks like any of the "shift lever" fits the rod and has the correct detent and nipple thing to work in the tranny, the cup location is what changes. So if you can get a chevy or jeep one its fine.

exactly. And then stick the other shift lever thing out the back. Need to measure and decide how far then send the shift rod to Sean and his moto-horse-lathe for a new one.

I brazed it. It would look way better if I hadnt tried welding it first. I made my adapter plate and got most stuff fitted, all I have left is to cut the rod to length and drill the 2nd hole in it. I forgot to take pictures of everything. I ended up having to put the actual shift in backwards, had to cut up the shifter hole a little, and I had to drill a couple holes in the tunnel to get to the rear bolts. Pictures will make it easier to understand. I could have gotten away with just the holes or maybe not at all if the tranny's shifter was a couple inches further forward. I could have cut the same amount out of the tranny hole if I just used the camaro tail housing and stock shifter I think. I'm going to have to make a custom shift stick to get the knob where I want, the ebay stuff is usable right now, but with the bolt on shifter stick it'll be easier to frabricobble something together for better placement.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f47c15ef9b.jpg

Oh I too ended up just drilling a hole in the back of the tranny instead of pushing the freeze plug out, I have to make a felt seal still. Felt will be fine for this.

What I screwed up:

The t5 input shaft must be shortened. Otherwise it will interfere with the crankshaft. I do not know how much this needs to be shortened yet. But I will cut it so that the tip is at the same place in relation to where the splines start as the miata input shaft.

So the new length is 7.189-(amount necessary to make the t5 input shaft tip in the same place as the miata input shaft)+4.1-3.75 = 7.224" - antmttistitspatmis.

Based off of a measurement from a locust forum the miata transmission is 32" from bellhousing face to shifter pivot.
Subtract .410" gets you 31.59" from tip of input shaft to the center of the shifter.

The t5 transmission I am using is 26.7"-(the above amount taken off the input shaft) from the tip to the center of the pivot.

So my shifter must be extended 4.89" - (the above amount taken off the input shaft).

@Leafy, or @TurboTim do either of you know if that will interfere with the back of the transmission?

How long did you extend yours leafy.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...95e306d6bf.png

If you take the Mustang shifter and flip it backwards and put it against the back of the tranny, that's how far back mine is.

No.

I'm starting to think this is the tail housing we want instead when doing these.

2006 06 FORD MUSTANG MANUAL TRANSMISSION 5 SPEED 4.0L SOHC OEM | eBay